460 rebuild

[H2opro]

Hey all. I know this topic has been beat. But I'm having hard time finding decent info. I have a 79 f250 with a factory 460. Truck is an original survivor with 61k on it. Problem is the emissions crap is INOP. All the hoses are cracked and dry rotted. Its cause the truck to run like crap. Along with the valve seals leaking and oil fowling the plugs. It burns, leaks more oil than gas. I'm guessing that gaskets are just shot from age and sitting. So the motor is coming out. I'm dumping the EGR crap. None of it works and more. Looking to mildly build the motor. Looking for suggestions. Going to try and keep it on w budget. Not a cheap cut corners budget. Like to be somewhere between 2-3k in parts. Looking for cam suggestions, going to be towing a bit. Probably going to swap the timing set and possibly change out the D3VE heads as well.

Feel free to move this if I'm in the wrong section.

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[H2opro]

Here's a couple more pictures.

 

[Sparky83]

no idea on the parts... but wanted to say thats a nice looking clean truck there... after seeing the montana plates i was really surprised to not see any rust in the pictures...

was also wondering whats the tow truck in the background there??

 

[H2opro]

no idea on the parts... but wanted to say thats a nice looking clean truck there... after seeing the montana plates i was really surprised to not see any rust in the pictures...



was also wondering whats the tow truck in the background there??

Thank you. It was built in saint Paul Minnesota. It was not driven in the winter. I drove it year round for 2 years when I was station in LA. It's sad that it won't even start anymore because the valve seals fowl the plugs so bad.

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[H2opro]

no idea on the parts... but wanted to say thats a nice looking clean truck there... after seeing the montana plates i was really surprised to not see any rust in the pictures...



was also wondering whats the tow truck in the background there??

As for the wrecker. It's a 97 F-350. Started out as a 4x4 cab and chassis. 7.3 E4OD.

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[H2opro]

And yes my gold truck has the awesome rust on the roof rails. When I was stationed in LA. Everything I found in junkyards down there had it. Along with most of them needing floorpans. I've had the carpet out of this one once. Floor looks new. Still has the paper or whatever that is between the fender and inner fender. So I don't think it's ever been apart. It has had some minor paint work. But it looks to me a mostly original truck.

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[LEB Ben]

Quick Fuel Slayer 750cfm vac sec...$400
Weiand Stealth Intake...$300
Cam Kit...$450 (gonna want a cam around 2teens/2teens @ .050)
Headers...$300
Assorted gaskets/fluids/hoses...$250

That gets you to $1700...

Now if you can't do the valvetrain work yourself for the new cam, that's another $500. If you need any block work to true up cylinders, plan on $75/cylinder for another $600. Which also means you'll be buying at minimum $300 worth of pistons. And if you have the whole block torn down to this point, should really replace cam and crank bearings...another $400ish total plus install...and since you're doing crank bearings you're going to want to at least true up the crank and that'll be another $250ish. And that's another $2200ish.


A lot of this is going to depend on what you can do yourself...knowledge and tools. My recommendation is usually to find a cheap runner, cam swap it if you want...but it's worlds cheaper to find a lightly used basic/mild build than doing it yourself. Now, the risk involved there is, most guys ignore that last $2200 and run a 'big cam' on 40 year old stock springs (that were only good to .480-.500" of lift anyway) relegating their cam swap useless...and you inherit their problems.

 

[H2opro]

Quick Fuel Slayer 750cfm vac sec...$400
Weiand Stealth Intake...$300
Cam Kit...$450 (gonna want a cam around 2teens/2teens @ .050)
Headers...$300
Assorted gaskets/fluids/hoses...$250

That gets you to $1700...

Now if you can't do the valvetrain work yourself for the new cam, that's another $500. If you need any block work to true up cylinders, plan on $75/cylinder for another $600. Which also means you'll be buying at minimum $300 worth of pistons. And if you have the whole block torn down to this point, should really replace cam and crank bearings...another $400ish total plus install...and since you're doing crank bearings you're going to want to at least true up the crank and that'll be another $250ish. And that's another $2200ish.


A lot of this is going to depend on what you can do yourself...knowledge and tools. My recommendation is usually to find a cheap runner, cam swap it if you want...but it's worlds cheaper to find a lightly used basic/mild build than doing it yourself. Now, the risk involved there is, most guys ignore that last $2200 and run a 'big cam' on 40 year old stock springs (that were only good to .480-.500" of lift anyway) relegating their cam swap useless...and you inherit their problems.

Thank you for the info. The plain for the heads is to put on a rebuild set of police heads that are ready to go. The block have low miles should need more that s hone. I and going to re ring it and replace all the bearings as well because its apart. I want everything to look as stock as possible. Just want to wake it up a bit of it's coming apart anyways.

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[BKW]

1979 F150/350 & E250/350: TWO different 460 engines.

One is internal balance, the other is external balance (has a weighted crank spacer).

1979: The block casting number must be known to get the correct flexplate and harmonic balancer.

Block casting numbers:

Internal balance: D1VE-6015-AB or A1B or A2B

External balance: D9TE-6015-AB