1979 F-150 EGR Block Off

[Dart81]

I'm pretty sure I have a leak around my EGR. I was thinking of replacing the EGR with a block off cover. Since I live in rural Idaho and I don't have to deal with emission testing I'm thinking a block off is a good idea, but would appreciate some advice from those more experienced than me.

 

[TexasRho83]

EGR is a power robber. All that emissions crap is...I've only had one truck that I bought with some of the emissions stuff still attached to the motor and I yanked it all off ASAP. The guy even had the smog pump hooked up. Just make sure to block off/cap off every part that was being used.

I live in Dallas and even with all the mandatory emissions testing centers we have to go through for an inspection on newer vehicles, my truck is exempt.

 

[LEB Ben]

x2 on yanking all emissions stuff out, my Bronco had it, but I pulled it all out. I've been told that blocking the EGR will help add power and mpg's...I didn't really notice a difference, but some guys have.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

Not sure what your situation is, but my '75 360 FE intake manifold had an
exhaust hole in it under the carburetor. Drilled and tapped it, plugged it
with a solid cast iron pipe plug then sawed it off and filed it flat.
(early 80's)

That was before little hand grinders and flap disks were common.

Anyway, what I'd like to know... is that hole a common trait or unusual?

--------------------------

I got a recall letter from Ford on the EGR but I never took it in because
I'd already defeated it with a bow-tie shaped piece of sheet metal.
>__<
If I remember right, one end was a stud the other end was a bolt and
the V shaped cuts held it in place while I screwed the vacuum-motor
and valve-assembly down.

A fellow RR signalape had a Ford company truck with a 240-6 automatic!
Who in the hell ordered that piece of crap? :/ Anyway, he couldn't climb
the hills on his district without taking a hell of a run at 'em and the roads
tended to be washed out at the bottoms and the pickup developed the
death shakes before it was turned in too. LOL

Well I told him I could fix it but he didn't want to hear it, he wouldn't have
anything to ***** about see? Well I drove the truck on his district for 2
weeks and while I had it, it had nothing more than a piece of tin can as a
block-off but held up fine for the two weeks I had it and removed it last
thing when I parked it at his house. No kidding, I had no trouble climbing
those hills after I put my little piece of sheet metal in there.

A guy on FTE jumped all over me and told me the engines setup to run an
EGR have a leaner low speed mixture and a quicker low speed advance.
(or something like that)

Well heck, that was perfect for the 3000 to 4000 ft elevation of that guy's
district! LOL

----------------------------------------------

My '75 F150 360FE T18 couldn't pull itself out of my level drive way in 2nd
gear, before I blocked that EGR valve off. I'm talking about when it had less
than 1000 miles on it. What did they expect me to do? Buy a brand new
pickup and start off in 1st gear every time with an un-synchronized T18? :/

Alvin in AZ

 

[TexasNomad]

BLock the sucker off EGRs blow!
You can get block off plates at jegs and summit
http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=700+4294923429+115
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...ff&Ntx=mode+matchpartial&Dx=mode+matchpartial

If you wanted to really help and i'm not sure how far you would want to go on this but if you take off your headers and look in to the ports you will see these little bumps if you grinds those babies off it will do wonders on letting your engine breath.

 

[airwaybill]

I blocked the egr by bending over the pipe, smashing it flat and welding it shut. I would love to use a plate, it would look so much better. But, what do I do with the egr valve position sensor? Can I just detatch it from the egr and leave it plugged in? Or, do I simply unplugg and cap it?

I have an 88 f250 351w, by the way.

 

[chuck101st]

If I remember right all we used to do was cut a piece of metal big enough to cover where the EGR valve is, drill the bolt holes, and use a gasket made for the EGR. Bolt it in place of the valve.

 

[Dart81]

I found an EGR Block off and put it on and had no problems. Now my original goal was to eliminate an air leak that I thought came from the EGR valve. So I started her up and I still had the same air noise. No luck. I carefully checked vac hoses and connections in the area around the carburetor and found no leaks. Now remember this is all new to me so in my humble opinion I'm thinking the air is coming from my rebuilt motorcraft carburetor. Is that possible? By the way, It seems I have more power since I put the EGR blockoff on.

 

[Alvin in AZ]

I carefully checked vac hoses and connections in the area around the
carburetor and found no leaks. Now remember this is all new to me...

For "free" you can rent tools form AutoZone etc.
Even an A/C vacuum pump.

Do yourself a favor and rent a "hand vacuum pump/tester" and test the
vacuum system like you mean it.

Vacuum system problems aren't as invisible as electrical problems but close
enough to warrant a real test, not just a "look see".

BTDT "look see" business myself :/ and had a vacuum leak staring right at
me and didn't find it until I used the vacuum system tester I bought.

No kidding on this, a vacuum leak can be where everything "looks" its best.

Alvin in AZ

 

[TexasNomad]

I'm thinking the air is coming from my rebuilt motorcraft carburetor. Is that possible? By the way, It seems I have more power since I put the EGR blockoff on.

Yeah EGRs suck big time.
There wont be any air come out of the carb, but you could have a leaking gasket or a vac port on the carb that's unpluged.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Is it whistlin when ya drive it?

 

[Dart81]

It's not whistling when I'm driving. I wasn't aware of a vac tester, huge learning curve here. I will also look for open ports on the carb. I might have missed something there.