Ok so my rotors were warped on the truck, not very bad, but I wanted to get my self something for my bday and this was it. Got the kit off ebay and it looks to be good. Got 2 rotors and pads(didnt install, just did loaded calipers)

Anyway
Take the Hub Twist Cap off
On my style there was a phillips screw holdin the peice that connects the axle shaft to the hub, and the peice pops out with a giant spring. Never seen this before, never done a F350 hub before so I guess everthing is bigger.
Take the big clip out of the hub, then usin 2 of the cap screws pull the center peice out.
Now you can take the bearings out, using the special took losen the outer lock ring and take it out
Take the lock spacer out
Take the inner lock ring out and hold the rotor so it doesnt slide off and fall on you or the floor.

Slide hub asembly off the spindle

Gettin the rotor and hub seperated
Hammer the studs out of the hub and rotor asemble. I used a punch and hammer.
Then there is 2 spots you hammer a chisel in and seperate the hub from the rotor

If your goin to do bearings now is the time, pop the seal out, clean out the hub, and put in new bearings and races. I did this, and when I took the rotor off, 1/2 the grease seal was still on the spindle.

Install
I grease around where the rotor and hub meet, then put the rotor on top, and grease up the studs and hammer them back in, I have a tool that installs on the other side of the stud and you use the lug nut and impact to pull the studs through, works awesome.

The rest is reverse of removal.

I spray paint the rotors front and back, inside and on top, I dont like to see rust, so this will help keep it nicer longer(plus looks better through my wheel)
Also wirebrushed the calipers and bridges and sprayed em up too.

PICS

Old



I had to cut backing plate off as it was so rotted out.

Are your shocks on upside down?

Looks like it.

Although I do envy the solid axle.

Ryan

Sweet...serious question though...on trucks of this size, do drilled and slotted rotors really make a difference?

Who knows, brakes feel good, im doin for looks. The bilsteins install that way, its wierd.

I just wondered, the Bilsteins on my 250 are on rod side up barrel side down.

Blue Goose said:

I just wondered, the Bilsteins on my 250 are on rod side up barrel side down.

Click to expand...

So are mine... Never seen 'em upside down like that.

I put em so you could read the words, on my friends F150 there like that too, the stud was on the res side, and the eye was on the rod side. So i put like his. Are the 5100 the silver ones?

95F350XL said:

I put em so you could read the words, on my friends F150 there like that too, the stud was on the res side, and the eye was on the rod side. So i put like his. Are the 5100 the silver ones?

Click to expand...

Yeah the 5100s are the silver ones and on mine the stud was on the rod side-- eyelet on the cylinder side.

Got a question...what's the difference between the black/silver and blue/yellow shocks? I thought they were both 5100 series?

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...ine/Bilstein-5100-Series-Shocks/?autoview=SKU


I thought the blue and yellows were more 'heavy duty' and the black/silvers were a better ride? But why no series # differentiation?

Silvers are the 5100s and they're more expensive. Variable valving so it yields a soft ride with small compressions (on road) and stiffens for more stability and control with longer compression strokes (off road). They're meant to be used more for off road.

Thank ya sir

Yea, I donno, i noticed that it stops alot smoother then it used to, pedal seems more grabby now. NICE

Might help keep your brakes cool if you tow anything heavy..

Yea I warped mine, towin my girl's stump grinder, its a huge 1, and go figure the trailer brakes dont work on it.