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Roller 89 EFI

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Question i have toying in my head for awhile now.

On my 89 F250, I had the stock 5.0L hydrulic flat tappit engine in it with a bit of mods (500" cam lift hehehe still EFI).
Now I am converting to a roller cam engine (trick flow stage 1 cam). Will this cause me problems with the distributor firing order, Fuel injector firing order or the cam firing order???
 
Question i have toying in my head for awhile now.

On my 89 F250, I had the stock 5.0L hydrulic flat tappit engine in it with a bit of mods (500" cam lift hehehe still EFI).
Now I am converting to a roller cam engine (trick flow stage 1 cam). Will this cause me problems with the distributor firing order, Fuel injector firing order or the cam firing order???

The spark plug wiring order has to match the cam but the injectors should not be touched. Both 5.0 and 5.8 motors have the injectors wired exactly the same on the early SD trucks even though the motors uses different firing orders, so you don't have to do anything to them when changing the cam firing order.

FYI. The block you have now is a roller block and all you need to convert to a roller cam is the spider and dogbones assembly from a donor motor, it will bolt right in. Here's my '89 truck block with these parts that I sourced from a scrapyard when I installed a roller cam last year...
 

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120
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The spark plug wiring order has to match the cam but the injectors should not be touched. Both 5.0 and 5.8 motors have the injectors wired exactly the same on the early SD trucks even though the motors uses different firing orders, so you don't have to do anything to them when changing the cam firing order.

FYI. The block you have now is a roller block and all you need to convert to a roller cam is the spider and dogbones assembly from a donor motor, it will bolt right in. Here's my '89 truck block with these parts that I sourced from a scrapyard when I installed a roller cam last year...

ITs all roller. I took the block from my buddys 5.0L mustang. He bought a 347 and didnt need the other engine.
 

flareside_thunder

Florida Chapter member
7,812
246
Sorry I had to reread what you said initially after your first post. The same thing as Paul said with the injectors, you won't have to touch em.....The dizzy and cam are the ones that need to mesh. Find out what order your cam is and set up your dizzy for the same. IE if cam is 13726548 then you need to have your plugs routed as such.
 
The other point that may not have been clear is that from a power output perspective there is nothing gained by starting with a HO motor versus a truck motor, they both have the same heads and will produce the same HP and TQ with any particular cam and intake. It's easier to assemble the motor on an engine stand and swap it in so I understand using a donor motor for a buildup, but it's still a 5.0 so don't expect any radical increase in power just because it's a HO motor. And while the TFS cams are a good choice for a 5.0 car they're not particularly well suited to a truck motor, the powerband will start about 1000rpm higher than advertised due to the extra weight a truck carries. IMO if you're going through the trouble of swapping motors a 5.8 based buildup would deliver far better results.
 
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120
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The other point that may not have been clear is that from a power output perspective there is nothing gained by starting with a HO motor versus a truck motor, they both have the same heads and will produce the same HP and TQ with any particular cam and intake. It's easier to assemble the motor on an engine stand and swap it in so I understand using a donor motor for a buildup, but it's still a 5.0 so don't expect any radical increase in power just because it's a HO motor. And while the TFS cams are a good choice for a 5.0 car they're not particularly well suited to a truck motor, the powerband will start about 1000rpm higher than advertised due to the extra weight a truck carries. IMO if you're going through the trouble of swapping motors a 5.8 based buildup would deliver far better results.

Yeah, The reason why I chose a roller is was..
1st the price was right.
2nd it was in excellent condition... You could still see the oringal hone marks from ford.


I did put a new cam in before i pulled the engine... It was pritty good cam and still ran fine on speed density. even with the powerband starting at 1800rpm it still drove just fine.
The cam I had in it...
The Basic Operating RPM Range 1,800-5,800
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 224
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 224
Duration at 050 inch Lift 224 int./224 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 270
Advertised Exhaust Duration 270
Advertised Duration 270 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.500 int./0.500 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110

And the trickflow cam
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 225
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 int./225 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 275
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 279
Advertised Duration: 275 int./279 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.499 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.510 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.499 int./0.510 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

Its pritty similar cam.
 

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