Need 302 Help ASAP!!

[Old_Paint]

The truck will start up fine when cold, rev up when not in gear...once it goes into gear, no power.... and once it stalls, you have to put the pedal to the floor for it to start.

Still a fuel problem?

Even more so if it will start when you floor it. That is exactly what is done on EFI's to overcome a no-start flooded condition. When you floor it, the EEC senses open throttle, and will not fire the injectors when starting.

Try this on your cold engine. Push the throttle to the floor, and try to start it. If it starts, go get a fuel pressure regulator. If the engine starts at WOT, that means you have fuel going in when you shouldn't. It's a good injector test as well, if you know the FPR is good. There's only two ways fuel can get to those cylinders. The right way, through the injectors when fired. The wrong way (any other route or reason)

If you want to go buy a timing chain, cam gear, and crank gear, be my guest. But, I think you'll be wasting your money, and signing up for a whole lotta labor that's very subject to introducing a whole new set of problems.

Black smoke, no power, back-firing is all symptoms of a failed FPR. It takes about 30 minutes to change the FPR, and IIRC, I paid about $15 for mine.

 

[Old_Paint]

The truck will start up fine when cold, rev up when not in gear...once it goes into gear, no power.... and once it stalls, you have to put the pedal to the floor for it to start.

Still a fuel problem?

This is EXACTLY the symptoms of a failed FPR. Flooring it (WOT) causes the EEC to inhibit the fuel injectors during start. This is EXACTLY how to start an EFI engine that has flooded. It's also a good test to see if there is a leaking injector or fuel pressure regulator. It won't tell you which is leaking, but more often than not, it's the FPR. The FPR takes about 30 minutes to change, mostly because it's hard to reach back behind the intake plenum. The part, IIRC, cost me about $20. I may be dead wrong about the cost, but it's readily available at ANY parts store.

Smoking black, no power, vapor lock when warm, backfiring, all combined are screaming FPR to me. I was running down the interstate when mine let go. My truck looked like a locomotive with the black smoke pouring out of it, and didn't have power to pull itself. I used nearly 3/4 tank of fuel in 65 miles just getting to the next decent sized town with a dealership. I only went to a dealership because it was still under warranty then.

 

[Fordzilla80]

At my local parts store an FPR is 25 bucks.

 

[Old_Paint]

At my local parts store an FPR is 25 bucks.

Still pretty darn cheap compared to cam gear, crank gear, chain, TC gasket set, intake set, etc, etc, and a whole hell of a lot easier to put on. It's been a couple years since I bought mine, and unless these are the same FPR's used on later more fuel efficient vehicles, C4C is gonna start driving our parts prices up. So many things that used to be availabe from JY shopping will no longer be useable.

 

[RedLariat85]

Even more so if it will start when you floor it. That is exactly what is done on EFI's to overcome a no-start flooded condition. When you floor it, the EEC senses open throttle, and will not fire the injectors when starting.

Try this on your cold engine. Push the throttle to the floor, and try to start it. If it starts, go get a fuel pressure regulator. If the engine starts at WOT, that means you have fuel going in when you shouldn't. It's a good injector test as well, if you know the FPR is good. There's only two ways fuel can get to those cylinders. The right way, through the injectors when fired. The wrong way (any other route or reason)

If you want to go buy a timing chain, cam gear, and crank gear, be my guest. But, I think you'll be wasting your money, and signing up for a whole lotta labor that's very subject to introducing a whole new set of problems.

Black smoke, no power, back-firing is all symptoms of a failed FPR. It takes about 30 minutes to change the FPR, and IIRC, I paid about $15 for mine.

Okay, I will go and buy a FPR soon. Hopefully it works!

Thanks!!

 

[Moto Mel]

So what was the cure? The FPR or was it the timing chain and gears? After reading all these posts it would be nice to know the answer.

 

[RedLariat85]

I am going to put a new FPR on it this weekend...so hopefully it fixes it!!

 

[RedLariat85]

This is what it does when you put it in gear...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3OY9237l90

 

[RedLariat85]

I put a new FPR on, and it didnt help...it wont even fire when you crank it..

I'm gonna check my timing tomorrow.

 

[RedLariat85]

How do you find TDC?

 

[LEB Ben]

How do you find TDC?

Easiest way, although not the most accurate is pull the valve cover to the #1 cylinder (passenger side). Then rotate the engine over at the crank until both pushrods are all the way up. At that time, your timing pointer should be at 0...if not there is chance you're 180* off, and do the previous steps again.

 

[RedLariat85]

Easiest way, although not the most accurate is pull the valve cover to the #1 cylinder (passenger side). Then rotate the engine over at the crank until both pushrods are all the way up. At that time, your timing pointer should be at 0...if not there is chance you're 180* off, and do the previous steps again.

What are the other ways? Because i dont want to take my valve cover off...

 

[LEB Ben]

What are the other ways? Because i dont want to take my valve cover off...

Dunno...that's the only way I ever did it.

 

[dragogt]

Get it on the compression stroke; Then rotate the engine by Hand w/ a screwdriver or the like in the spark plug hole, stop at the apex. And you should be at tdc.

 

[LEB Ben]

Get it on the compression stroke; Then rotate the engine by Hand w/ a screwdriver or the like in the spark plug hole, stop at the apex. And you should be at tdc.

That makes sense...so being that it's a 302, he should get 3" of movement from bottom to top right?

 

[dragogt]

Sounds about right.

 

[RedLariat85]

Well I checked my timing...it's right on the money. I did a compression check, and it doesnt have any compression.

So I am now looking for a 1987-1992 Mustang 5.0 HO.

 

[dragogt]

That sucks, good luck on the search.

 

[LEB Ben]

As in no compression at all...or a cylinder or two? Did you get any readings at all?

 

[RedLariat85]

As in no compression at all...or a cylinder or two? Did you get any readings at all?

Well, i only checked compression on 5 cylinders, and there wasnt much...