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primetime

sawmill slave
smiliewhathesaid As for 600 or 650, Holley vacuum secondary carbs are usually rated at 600 cfm except for the Street/Truck Avenger carbs which have a 670 cfm rating, Holley mechanical secondary (double pumper) carbs usually carry a 650 cfm rating. Edelbrocks are rated at 650 cfm with vacuum secondaries. Does it matter if you have a 600 Holley or a 650 Edelbrock? No. The performance difference is negligable if at all. It basically boils down to preference and what you are willing to pay. Holleys are very tunable, but that can lead to problems if you buy a used one from somebody who modified it without knowing what they are doing.

Holley vacuum secondary carbs do not REQUIRE tuning, but they CAN be. On a Holley it is a matter of changing the spring in the pod on the side of the carb. Holley Street/Truck avenger carbs have an adjustment knob which allows for tuning the secondaries for a little better fuel economy, or more horsepower without going to far and hurting things. Edelbrock also has carbs that allow the same thing. Keep in mind that putting too light of a spring in the secondaries will open them too soon causing the engine to bog because The engine isn`t ready for the extra air and fuel.

Realistically, whichever you choose be it a 600 Holley or a 650 Edelbrock is going to be very close to what you need right out of the box. Set your idle speed and idle mixture and you`ll be just fine.
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
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outside your house
Here's my go to Carb of choice:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80783C/

Holley, 650cfm, e-choke, vac secondaries. It's from the 4150 series so damn near everything is adjustable. I've bought a few of these...they're cheap and the only real tuning needed out of the box is the choke.

You will need to purchase the ford kickdown linkage.
 

1970Custom

They call me Spuds
14,107
447
Middleton, ID
I would like to ask this again. Do you folks recommend an intake and a four barrel carburetor for my stock 352? Thank you

Dylan

Yes, those old FE engines liked to breath. Any upgrades will help that engine.

Just remember, while FE stands for Ford Edsel it also stands for F***ing Expensive but there is some good power to be had from them if you're willing to shell out the cash.
 
Guys, there have been a lot of changes in my plans since this last election. I won't get into it as that's probably just another road to get me tossed out of here. As some may remember I have stated that I had plans for the military after graduation. I was sure as the heat in hell that Obama would be packing his bags by now. Well, as I am not old enough to vote. Again the wise old adults have made my decisions for me. I will not serve under Obama, simply because I do not trust him.

Ok, this keeps me home until I am 19 when Obama will be out of office. I guess I will see whats left of America after he has another 4 years at it. So, I will be looking for work again in the spring. I have 16 clients that I tend lawn and gardens for. I actually hired help last summer. So my truck is going to be working again this summer.

Let me tell you why I am looking to up my power a bit and my thoughts about it. Everything being "expensive" for this 'FE' motor. Would I be better off just looking for a stronger motor out of the salvage yard? I mean, on the door panel it says my truck has 170 horsepower. Hell! My Granddads motorcycle has 180 horsepower. I hauled a load of flat landscaping rock last summer that weighed around 1800 pounds. I was down into second gear pulling a fairly steep grade. But damn! Does this sound right? I have the 352, 2bbl, 4-speed with 4.56 differentials. No doubt on the diffs. They are aftermarket as they didn't come in the truck. They were installed at Bucks 4-Wheeler in Boise Idaho in 1999. I have the receipts for them. They both are VERY limited slip. Whatever the 'VERY' means. But so stated on the receipt.

Anyway, the $350 for the new 4bbl carb and the $$$ for the new intake and headers. (I have the headers) Would I be better off just looking for a motor that will bolt right in? Next question,,,is there a big block that will 'bolt right in'?

Thanks for your thoughts

Below is a picture when I was 13. First time I met with a Marine Corps requiter. Next to my Granddad, It's the closest I personally can relate to Veterans day. I won't be there in that office again until I'm 19. I was hoping sooner. But, the elections set my plans back a bit.


phpd9dnMmPM.jpg


DTM
 
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SuperCab

Moderator
Staff member
10,068
547
Montana
Well, there are only two popular engines that will bolt in where your 352 is. 360 and 390. Otherwise you will have to change the bell housing on your transmission... You could run a 351 or 460 then depending on the bell housing you use...


I would find why your current 352 isn't doing it... With 4.56 gears you should be able to do anything but go over 50 mph... 352s were a strong engine...
 

1970Custom

They call me Spuds
14,107
447
Middleton, ID
The FE engines are great engines. They are considered a big block but they LOVE higher RPM than a 385 Series.

While the 352 is the smallest of the family all the hop up parts bolt on, headers, cam, carb, intake, and ignition will help you out quite a bit. Personally I've never had good luck with points style dizzys. Might consider upgrading to an electronic dizzy and ignition module.

If you go with any other engine even if its a 360/390 you'll still be right where you're at, looking for more grunt. Seeing that you're going with it as a work truck try to focus on torque adding hop ups over hp.
 

primetime

sawmill slave
How steep of a grade? How fast were you going at the bottom versus the top? I hauled a lot of short steel with a 68 F-350 that had the 360 with a 4-speed and 3.73s. We generally averaged 8,000 lbs of payload and it did alright on hills if you drove it right.

For now it`ll be cheaper and easier to hop up what you have. I always plan on a grand minimum to do an engine swap. Especially if you switch to a different engine family. clutches, flywheels, hoses, knick knacks, they add up FAST.

Whether or not it`s warranted, I`m going to offer a little advice. Enjoy your truck and keep it in one piece as long as you can. Take care of what it needs and what you want to do to it to make it better. They are a lot more enjoyable when they are driveable versus a pile of parts. Just cruise the net checking out project threads and how long they are taking and you`ll see what I mean. I`m by no means saying don`t dream big or make big plans, but don`t be in a big yank to dive head first into something huge.
 
Prime, I have thought much over your advise. I agree that making a good running truck into a pile of parts sure doesn't sound appealing. I believe I will save and buy my intake first. I will then save again and purchase my carburetor. I have decided on the Edelbrock intake and the Holley 4150 series? UT, I don't believe I need to worry about the Ford kickdown with my truck being a standard. Correct? I will just get things together and ready to bolt on so there will be minimal downtime. Makes great sense. Thanks guys.

DTM
 
Wow, just read your whole thread, and I'm impressed! Good looking truck, you have one of the best bases to start from. Those things are beasts, I've had a couple and love them.

The 352 you have is a good engine, they made good power and respond to bolt ons. The edelbrock is the only aftermarket intake made for the FE engines, last time I looked anyway. You might shop for a used cast iron 4bbl intake, you should be able to find one a lot cheaper than the Edelbrock, and the performance gain would be similar. I ran an Edelbrock aluminum intake on a 390 for awhile, and honestly couldn't tell the difference between it and a cast iron.

What elevation do you live at? Putting a new four barrel on it right out of the box works well at sea level, but if you live a little higher you'll need to re-jet it, or it will be running rich. I only mention this because I'm in Colorado, at around 7,000 ft, and stock jetting doesn't work here at all. Just a thought.

Also, the 4.56 gears are great if your going to bigger tires or pulling heavy loads, but will hurt mileage and make it sound like your over revving the engine at higher speeds. Just somthing to keep in mind. There are a lot of people in the off road crowd who'd love those gears, but for hiway driving they aren't the greatest.
 
7000 ft elevation !!! thats really up there - i'd never thought about rejetting carbs for altitude before - the highest iv'e ever driven is at just over 3500 feet and that is the crown range which is one of the highest passes in N.Z
 

1970Custom

They call me Spuds
14,107
447
Middleton, ID
7000 ft elevation !!! thats really up there - i'd never thought about rejetting carbs for altitude before - the highest iv'e ever driven is at just over 3500 feet and that is the crown range which is one of the highest passes in N.Z

Flat landers anyway. :D

My home town is 200ft shy of that elevation. The local ski resort is 7200ft...
 

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