My progress page

[71f250camper]

for all the old guys im lucky i have an old guy that can help me. my dad. he can time and set things by ear on them old trucks. not sure how he does it but its crazy. he is my best assest on this project. for u big D these guys are the bomb. i almost want your motor man it will look really nice in my truck lol just playing.

 

[catatonichampster]

I meant in this message (#90). That I DID have to choke it a little. Even in warm weather! After adjusting the air/fuel. I don't touch the choke. Neither the gas pedal, unless it has sat for a few days. What a difference! I can;t get over what a difference the turn of a couple screws has made.

 

[catatonichampster]

Acting up in 4WD?

Hey guys. Hows it going? I have been told that I should "exercise" the 4WD in my truck once in a while. Been told it keeps things lubricated. Been told them hubs can be tough to get in and out if I don't use them once in a while.

This all makes sense to me and I do it. I have said before. I don't have my drivers license yet. I won't be taking drivers ed until this fall. But, a person can drive many miles around here and never be on an actual road. So, with that I take Brutus for a spin a couple times a week. This morning I put him in 4WD (soft dirt road) just to lube stuff and make sure things are working good. He is easy to make the move from 2WD to 4WD High. But! He doesn't go back into 2WD oh so easily. I find this transition works best when I put him in reverse. I got to work at it a little, but i get it done without pushing really all to hard on the lever. I notice the hubs will NOT unlock if I have the transfer-case in 4WD. They will not turn until the transfer case is back in 2WD or natural. I can deal with these things, no problem. I realize the truck is like an old man all set up in his ways. I just got to learn his ways and do things his way.

The thing that bothered me a bit was this....When in 4WD High, I was going slow but made a very tight left turn. The turn sent me a bit uphill so I had to gas it a little heavy. Not hard enough to like spin a tire or even stir up the dust. I got off the gas soon as it started acting funny. It didn't matter, he continued acting up. Folks, I am easy on Brutus. When I bought him I told him he was retired. He wouldn't have to pull anything or haul real heavy loads any more. Anyway, when I was making this turn, things didn't 'feel' right. It felt jerky? The steering wheel acted funny, again 'jerky'? Anyone have a clue what I'm talking about? Ok, It's like Brutus wanted to make this turn in segments? Small steps? Am I making any sense? Well thats the best I can describe it.

Oh, I am about to drain the transfer case. I'm going to drain it, scrub it down and paint it FORD Blue. Advise what to put back in it would be grand! Anyone have any opinions with this stuff called 'Power Punch'? They make like an additive for gear boxes. I assume the transfer-case IS a gear box. Correct? Is there another additive you guys prefer? Thanks in advance guys. A huge amount of thanks.

Dylan

 

[DNFXDLI]

What you are describing is not abnormal. You have a gear drive transfer case with no kind of differential action on it.
When you turn a corner all wheels will want to turn at different speeds and that can make the steering jerky, it will place a load on the driveline that will require you to reverse to get the transfer case out of 4WD.
The hubs are the same..until the preload is off they can be a PITA to unlock.

When you are offroad, the wheels will tend to spin whereas on asphalt it will lock up harder, especially doing a tight turn...the truck will really bounce and shudder.

I'm leery of additives with maybe the exception of moly, your transfer case should take an 80W gear oil, but using a 75-90 would be fine and is easier to find.

 

[smokey]

Duncan is correct the 4wd walk is normal.

 

[71f250camper]

ya thats normal i even get that in my 91 explorer when im in 4 high

 

[catatonichampster]

Ah! The 'unwind' thing. I got it! That's great news that this is normal. Is this "4 wheel drive walk" like an old school thing? Or does it happen in a brand new 4WD under the same turning conditions?

 

[john112deere]

Happens in my '09 Ranger. As they get worn over the years there gets to be a little more slop so they might jerk a little harder than a brand-new rig, but a true 4x4 is gonna have to slip a tire making a tight turn in four-wheel drive.

This is why it's generally recommended you not run on dry pavement in 4wd. Different people take this to different extremes...and I'm out there on the "never" end of the spectrum.

 

[Beach66Bum]

Ah! The 'unwind' thing. I got it! That's great news that this is normal. Is this "4 wheel drive walk" like an old school thing? Or does it happen in a brand new 4WD under the same turning conditions?

Hi Dylan, what you're doing is the best thing, don't put Brutus in 4 wheel drive on the paved roads, there is to much drive line resistance and it could cause a u-joint to fail or worse. Old style 4 wheel drive systems need slippage of the driving wheels, unlike full time 4 wheel drive which has clutches to allow slippage and also works in conjunction with the modern ABS braking.

 

[DNFXDLI]

You should hear the sound my MTL-14 makes when it releases!

 

[Beach66Bum]

You should hear the sound my MTL-14 makes when it releases!

I used to look underneath the truck to see if I lost anything

'89 F250 4 wheel drive, would have kept that truck but was seriously abused by previous owner

 

[primetime]

What everyone else said. I will add a couple of things. When you exercise the four wheel drive you don`t have to have everything engaged. For instance, if you lock the hubs, but leave the t-case in 2hi, everything turns, but you aren`t powering anything. Likewise, you can put the t-case in 4hi, leave the hubs unlocked, everything turns, but the front tires don`t receive power.

Now, while the hopping is something that happens in 4x4s, it can also mean that the front axle joints may need replacing.

 

[catatonichampster]

Hey guys, nothing new to report on Brutus the big white horse. Since school started I'm not making much money. With fall coming there will be leaves, cleanup and such. Hopefully I can get in on some of that.

I did find a pair of headers for my 352. They are a good brand with thick flanges and I managed a good price. I am looking for advise on an intake manifold. I can probably find a stock cast iron unit somewhere. Is there an aluminum intake you guys might advise? I want to put a four barrel carburetor on my 352. Looking for advise on an aftermarket carb that my motor will be happy with.
Thanks

DTM

 

[BuzzGun79]

Primetime quoted "What everyone else said. I will add a couple of things. When you exercise the four wheel drive you don`t have to have everything engaged. For instance, if you lock the hubs, but leave the t-case in 2hi, everything turns, but you aren`t powering anything. Likewise, you can put the t-case in 4hi, leave the hubs unlocked, everything turns, but the front tires don`t receive power"

Yes this is true...But why do it,your causing unecessary wear n tear on parts to turn everything reguardless if the wheels are unlocked or locked with the transfer case in 2 hi ,along with robing fuel mileage as well.To each his own i guess.IMO this is how things fail or become stuck from non use.Either engage the total system or disengage the total system.and i am speaking from many yrs of mechanical service on the matter.Keep the 4wd,transfer case,differentials,ect full at all times and lockouts and shifters well lubricated.as stated backing the vehicle up 5-10' unloads the system for disengagement.

 

[primetime]

Primetime quoted "What everyone else said. I will add a couple of things. When you exercise the four wheel drive you don`t have to have everything engaged. For instance, if you lock the hubs, but leave the t-case in 2hi, everything turns, but you aren`t powering anything. Likewise, you can put the t-case in 4hi, leave the hubs unlocked, everything turns, but the front tires don`t receive power"

Yes this is true...But why do it,your causing unecessary wear n tear on parts to turn everything reguardless if the wheels are unlocked or locked with the transfer case in 2 hi ,along with robing fuel mileage as well.To each his own i guess.IMO this is how things fail or become stuck from non use.Either engage the total system or disengage the total system.and i am speaking from many yrs of mechanical service on the matter.Keep the 4wd,transfer case,differentials,ect full at all times and lockouts and shifters well lubricated.as stated backing the vehicle up 5-10' unloads the system for disengagement.

I was only trying to say that he can put his truck in 4 hi without having the hubs locked, or lock the hubs in without putting the transfer case in 4 wheel drive, say once a month for 20 minutes or so to let things turn, move around, and drive out the moisture that naturally accumulates. I didn`t mean drive around like that all the time.

 

[460Trucker]

Hey guys, nothing new to report on Brutus the big white horse. Since school started I'm not making much money. With fall coming there will be leaves, cleanup and such. Hopefully I can get in on some of that.

I did find a pair of headers for my 352. They are a good brand with thick flanges and I managed a good price. I am looking for advise on an intake manifold. I can probably find a stock cast iron unit somewhere. Is there an aluminum intake you guys might advise? I want to put a four barrel carburetor on my 352. Looking for advise on an aftermarket carb that my motor will be happy with.
Thanks

DTM

Good to see you back and updating. I look forward to your progress man! It's a very nice rig.

 

[catatonichampster]

Intake & Carb

I would like to ask this again. Do you folks recommend an intake and a four barrel carburetor for my stock 352? Thank you

Dylan

 

[DNFXDLI]

That along with a set of headers would give you more power and better fuel mileage (providing you keep your foot off the wick).
You would want a carb in the 6-650 range with vacuum secondaries.

 

[catatonichampster]

Intake & Carbs

I did find a nice set of headers. DNFXDLI, the 600-650 you speak of...Would a Holley be the answer? Not like a 'double pumper' correct? Could you be a bit more specific? 600 OR 650. On a 'vacuum secondary' does the secondary's require adjustment, like when they begin to open? Or are they just set to know when to come into action? Thanks

DTM

 

[DNFXDLI]

You don't want a double pumper (two accelerator pumps). Brand is really up to you, I've used Holley, Carter and Edelbrock with no issues, other people have different opinions.
Vacuum secondaries refers to the fact that the secondaries open under a drop in vaccum...as in load sensitive wheras a mechanical secondary will open at a set position of primary opening.
The vacuum one will typically yield better fuel mileage.