Buzz's 460 upgrade

[BuzzGun79]

Next up Fanatics...We have......

Mounted the engiine block on the engine stand...I use 4 - 5/8" Grade 8 bolts to mount the block on the stand, dont settle for less a softer bolt could snap while holding the block weight to the stand...Ive also removed the oil pan and oil pump assembly....

Pay close attention to the numbers,along with the arrows...The main bearing caps each have a respected number to their location..there for they must be kept to their respective locations with the arrows pointing to the front of the motor in this case....

Starting at the front of the engine..I have loosened all the mains...along with keeping the bolts in their respective hole and home main....

A sharp Blow from a plastic Hammer will unseat the loosened main..remove these working from the front of the engine to the rear or in order #1 main-#2 main,#3 main ect ect...lay them out in order on your table as well...

Next identify the rod caps on each individual journal...here you can see the #1 stamped on both the rod cap,along with the connecting rod as well..these numbers must coincide with its designated rod..the numbers must be kept so they can both be read on the same side.By chance thsese numbers also face the side of the block resepective to their location for example the #1 stamp on the rod and cap faces to the side of number 1 cylinder or the left (passenger side) of the engine.Not all engines are stamped..if not you WILL NEED to stamp them accordingly before disassembly..loosen, carefully remove each rod/piston assembly in order 1 at a time keeping them all in order to their respective locations on the table..while removing DO NOT LET THE ROD STUDS RUB OR SCRAPE AGAINST ITS JOURNAL OR THE CYLINDER WALLS..In basic terms Dont knick the crank journals or cylinder walls!!...

Here im identifying piston location...again some engines have a notch in the piston indicating the direction of install...These piston's have that notch the notch goes to the front of the engine..upon reinsatlling i will have to go by notch and the numbers stamped on the rods in order to install them back in correctly....

Here im usinng the plastic hammer to help seperate the cap from the rod...a light blow on the loosened nut is sufficient....REMEMBER DONT NICK THE JOURNAL OR THE CYLINDER WALLS REMOVING THE ROD ASSEMBLY!

Our block is now Disassembled.....

Our block Components are laid in order on a table out of the way of traffic or interferance...We are now at the half way point...lol Guess whats Next.....

More Cleaning,preping,measuring,Painting to go... ...hehe...

Here after the old paint has been stripped,along with sanding/power brushing to remove imperfections and rust scale...ive applied a coat of Zinc based rust inhibitng primer....Followed by....

A top coat of "Metal" is applied...once dry i hit it with about 5 coats of clear for an added gloss and protection...The paint used is heat resistant to 5,000 degrees F.....

Same with the timing Cover.......

OK STOP!!....Now we cleanup/inspect/measure/paint ALL the remaing parts,bolts,nuts,block ect ect,in order to be completely ready for reassembly....Doing this will ensure and add some speed to reassembly...once reassembly is started with everything clean ensures closing up the engine in a timely manor to avoid contamination of new items placed in the engine....Stay Tuned!!

 

[BuzzGun79]

Next we have given our block a initial degreasing in Kerosene,rinsed out then flowed by washing it all out in hot soapy water using dishwashing liquid and a spong followed by a rinse..then blown and towel dried COMPLETELY!

The above pic..Taking a clean paper towel,ive soaked the towel in clean oil then it is applied to each cylinder wall,bearing surfaces,lifter galleys,mating surfaces of the block..this will ensure no rust from forming in these critical areas....

Here im wiping down the cylinder mounting area's with the oil soaked paper towel...

Once the oil has been applied to all the areas.....STOP!!

Cover that block up!!...weve got parts to clean......

The "Tang Rule"...

Here my two fingers are pointing to the "tangs" in the main saddles of the block...upon reassembly all thse tangs must meet together with their respective half...I will address this later...but start thinking "tang to tang"...this is critical for proper oiling of bearings not only in the mains but the rods as well......

Tang locations in the Main bearing cap..along with the bearings....

Same for the connecting rods,rod caps,rod bearings....Tang goes to tang in reassembly.......

 

[BuzzGun79]

The next series of photos will show removal of the cam bearings,using the cam bearing removal,installer tool...

The tool is place inside the circumfrance of the bearing till it meets the tool stop..the tool is turned to tighten its grip on the bearing..then a few sharp blows on the tools handle drives out the bearing.....

The old bearing is removed from the tool by loosening the tool to realease its grip on the bearing.....

Say BY BY to the old cam bearings..... once we get all the honing,block work done and everything cleaned up a final time...the new cam bearings will be the first thing installed before anything else.....for Today...time to wrap it up...ive worked past Beer 30....Cheers All!!

 

[BuzzGun79]

http://www.enemyracing.com/oilsys.html

For those of you who are building a stoker,moderate, to high HP Engine,the link above will show how to correct the oiling system of the 460 for racing applications...This proceedure is NOT Mandatory on mild or stock builds..the stock 460 oiling system is very adequate for these type of engines...Keep in mind altercations are done at your own risk,sooo that means read and understand the methods before doing the work along with,double and tripple checking your work here...you have 1 shot to get it right!

 

[Beach66Bum]

Geez! looks intimidating to me now for some reason, maybe all those "parts" with their markings and such,

 

[BuzzGun79]

Geez! looks intimidating to me now for some reason, maybe all those "parts" with their markings and such,

Hang in there Roy! ...Once reassembly is started I think you will begin to understand...Still cleaning engine pieces and parts at this time...along with paying attention to under hood detailing of hardware,ect your all gonna see a big difference once the work is completed.....

 

[BuzzGun79]

Today was spent cleaning up the rod/Piston assemblies.....

We start by removing the old rings...now the compression rings werent to bad realisticly..But as i suspected the oil rings located at the bottom of the piston were pretty much junk, some of the bands in between the oil rings literally fell apart upon removal...

Here we have soaked our pistons in Kerosene for degreasing,cleaning...im using a small screwdriver to cleanout the carbon in the ring lands...A piston ring groove cleaner tool would speed up this process...But when without waddya do....Improvise!!

By By Carbon buildup!!

Here the assembly on the left has been degreased and cleaned....The one on the right cleaned and polished....polishing helps remove heavy deposits that may be left over from cleaning,along with minor scuffs in the skirting of the unit..it also aids in piston to cylinder wall friction for these babies are now as smooth as a babies bottom.....

 

[BuzzGun79]

Next up..Addressing the Crankshaft....

Initial degreasing/cleaning, checking our oil passages with a piece of coat hanger ill run it through ALL the oil passeges...

Using a Micrometer im taking measurements of the mains...Ill take 2 readings from each Journal one from 3 & 9 0clock postion......

Along with 12-6.what im looking for consistancy in diameter.or out of round journals.do this on all the mains and rod journals Mark all measurements down on paper and compare to Ford specs.....DO NOT DRAG THE MICROMETER ON THE BEARING SURFACE!

Same for the rod journals.....12 & 6 ^^^^

3 & 9 ^^ this is for number one rod assembly...for each rod Journal there will be 4 readings 2 for #1 assembly 2 for # 5 assembly ect.ect...again note all readings compare to Ford specs....

Once we determine wear or out of round,in which ive done will determine if the crank needs to be turned down by machining or simply buffing up the journals for reuse...Fortunatly for me the crank is still serviceable and will be reused in this case with a set of new Stock Bearings.

Now ill cut some strips of 320 grit sand paper ...Starting with the front main ill wrap the strip around the journal,grab each end and start buffing the journal..this will remove fine imperfections along with smoothing of the journal suface Buff evenly the entire journal surface for consistancy...Now we dont want to remove material from the journal,basicly a quick cleanup of the journal is all that is necessary...

Same for the rod journals. Again ill Buff the entire journals evenly removing fine imperfections along with polishing the journal smooth as possible without removing a great deal of material from the surface.

For this illistration (below) ive buffed the first 2 journals on the left side of the photo..you can see the difference,a much smoother surface from the right 2 journals...Ok Gotta finsh it up then re wash the crank down blow out the oil passeges and bag it to keep it ready for instalation..

 

[BuzzGun79]

Ok we finished up the crankshaft Buffing process....

In this pic the Screwdriver is pointing to the rear main seal journal..pay close attention to this journal it must be absolutley clean and no scoring for most seal failures are due to the condition of this area right here..

Here ive completed the polishing after a good wash in dawn dish detergent a rinse and a blow dry with compressed air...were ready for the block...remember to blow out all the oil passages clear of any soap/water solution...and keep those journal coated with a film of clean engine oil to prevent rusting.....

Since im on the rear main seal Subject..This is our rear main bearing cap Notice the lower half of the seal has a high side to it...THE HIGH SIDE MUST BE INSTALLED TWARDS THE BEARING...OR THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE! the same for the upper half in the block this is critical!!

Next im going to address Honing the cylinders...Get ready to make a mess so place a piece of cardboard and a drip pan under the engine..Apply Liberal amounts of oil in the cleaned cylinder walls..there,s no such thing as to much oil here

Place the hone in a variable Speed drill starting from the top of the OIL Coated cylinders im going to make 10 passes in each cylinder squirting more oil in the cylinders to keep them lubricated..you do not want to dry hone a cylinder.Now were not boring the cylinder, 10 passes only..we are deglazing the cylinders walls. im running the drill at about 3/4 of its total speed slow and steady in a complete up and down fashion from the top of the cylinder to the bottom not stopping the drill during the process..

Here weve honed the cylinders..Now i used a stone type hone it does do the job..but i do recommend a bead hone for a more presice hone in full blown high performance engines...cleanup the cylinders immediatly after the honing process is complete..again dish soap/ hot water compressed air dry then a clean light coat of engine oil to each cylinder wall...

Next we are going to install our Cam Bearings using the installation tool...Pay close attention to the oil passages in the bearings...

For the oil passages in the bearings MUST relate to the ones in the block!
For illistration purpose im showing #1 Cam Journal or the front of the engine for better viewing of the passages...We will start installation from the rear of the block working to the front #5-bearing then #4 bearing #3 ect the bearing is applied to the tool we line up the passages then drive them in carefully checking as we go for passage lineup...A few blows with a heavy hammer on the tool drives the bearings in their respective bores...

Here weve completed the installtion of our cam bearings....our oil passages line up the bearings look pretty well seated in their bores...Ready for that new Comp Cam!!

Now is the time to finsh painting details of the block ....Using what else.... Ford Blue heat paint! Remember to replace those Freeze plugs first!

Stay Tuned.... Block assembly is coming up next!!

 

[5.0Flareside]

Are you going to smooth out and paint the lifter valley? To help with the drain down?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

 

[Beach66Bum]

I bet you're excited at this stage Bob, a lot of careful and observant detail needed when doing a complete rebuild, that's what I have learned from every stage of your 460 build.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Are you going to smooth out and paint the lifter valley? To help with the drain down?


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Ford Power

To be totaly honest Chris..this hasnt crossed my mind in your aspect...and ive always been a skeptic of painting inside the engine...at this point,Im open for suggestions...Excellant queston!!

 

[BuzzGun79]

I bet you're excited at this stage Bob, a lot of careful and observant detail needed when doing a complete rebuild, that's what I have learned from every stage of your 460 build.

Let me say this Roy, Right now im just living in the moment 1 step at a time..Now when this baby fires off and everthing goes as should Hopefully... Your All Going to hear my elation, ill be like the kid in the ice cream shop!!! lol...Yes Roy alot of paying attention to the details..see... your picking up on it!

 

[DNFXDLI]

We used Glyptal back in the day Bob...I'm dryfilming my engine there...great write up!

 

[DNFXDLI]

Seems it's still being used...

http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-brush-on-1-qt.html

 

[BuzzGun79]

We used Glyptol back in the day Bob...I'm dryfilming my engine there...great write up!

Thank You Duncan!! Grant it Duncan...I have seen it done by others mind you.Just wandering about long term effects.peeling issues inside possibly doing harm is a concern..

 

[DNFXDLI]

I've never heard or had any issues using that paint. I think I would prefer the dryfilm process but it is much more costly.

 

[BuzzGun79]

I've never heard or had any issues using that paint. I think I would prefer the dryfilm process but it is much more costly.

Do you feel in all honesty that this is necessary for a basic rebuild..I mean realisticly the engine is going to be babied with an ocassional kick in the tail,maybe some light towing if need be..I mostly cruise with the truck.Now I do run the 10 quart oil pan with a high volume pump..my thinking is this should be adequate..I have not had prolblems with oil presssure at all.

 

[DNFXDLI]

I think that it helps, less chance for oil to settle, less chance for sludge buildup.
I'm not a fan of high volume oil pumps, I never have been...granted with the size of your pan, any aeration would be near impossible to happen.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Understood Duncan!! Thank You!!