351w cams?

[mrxlh]

Yeah.. but then he needs to swap transmission too. So much for being cheap or easy.

What are toploaders going for used now a days? Versus a set of injectors and an ECM and a custom map?

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Okay, I'm comfortable using a 5.0 computer and I think I will find a truck computer paired with the E4OD and call it a day.

As far as I can tell, since I'm using a wiring harness from a 1995 MAF 5.0 truck, I shouldn't have to repin anything. Does anyone see any reason why I'd have to re-pin the harness in any spot at all?

Paul, Do you have any suggestions on specific cams? Right now my GT40 heads have stock mustang springs on them, but that can be changed. I'll buy whatever valvetrain I need when I pick the cam.

Ryan

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I just ordered this computer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280794811231#ht_1657wt_1385

It's from a 1994 5.0l Bronco with the E4OD. It will perpetually throw codes for 4x4, but I don't care. It already does for my deleted EGR.

Ryan

 

[mrxlh]

What cams are you thinking about (specific grinds)? If you are looking for something that is fun to drive on the street (which is what I can remember you are looking for) that has manners, it should be pretty easy to nail down with the varibales you have now answered.

 

[conanski]

It will perpetually throw codes for 4x4,

I don't see how.. nothing related to the 4x4 system goes through the computer.

As for a cam I'd suggest the Comp 35-320-8, you can ignore every site that suggests this cam produces 0.544" lift and that 1.7 rockers are required because neither is true, this is the exact same grind as the Comp 35-349-8 with 2 degrees less LSA.. 112 vs 114, and valve lift with 1.6 rockers is 0.512". You could run this with the stock springs but the matching springs aren't a bad idea, just be sure you use valve seals that will fit inside this double springs set and not bind.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Here's the deal guys.

This isn't a daily driver and I want it to be as quick as I can get it on the first try, but still street driveable.

I think I can get substantially north of 300hp. I am willing to pour some cash into the valvetrain to handle a cam a little better than that, Paul. I guess my question is, how far would you go on camshafts with a MAF set up? Could I get away with part # 35-324-8?

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Product_Code=35-324-8&Category_Code=F50CEFIXE

I will also have a transmission rebuild not that far in the future, so I could stand to get a new torque converter with a different stall rpm if I needed to.

I want some speed out of this thing.

Ryan

 

[Fellro]

Realistically, if you plan to get the trans gone through, now is the best time. Much easier getting it out now than redoing it again after going through getting the trans all hooked up and such.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I'm going to let a pro do the transmission. I don't know how to put more magic into it.

Ryan

 

[5.0Flareside]

http://sbftech.com/


they have hundreds of the best with 302's and 351W's... it's pretty amazing..

 

[conanski]

Here's the deal guys.

This isn't a daily driver and I want it to be as quick as I can get it on the first try, but still street driveable.

I think I can get substantially north of 300hp. I am willing to pour some cash into the valvetrain to handle a cam a little better than that, Paul. I guess my question is, how far would you go on camshafts with a MAF set up? Could I get away with part # 35-324-8?

Here's the real deal.. despite what you want out of this motor the heads(and the intake) are going to limit the powerband to about 4500rpm so even the 35-320-8 gives you a lot of room to grow. You should see just about 300 ponies with this combo but add the heads and intake this motor should have(AFR185 and TFS-R intake) and you're bolting on 100hp with no other changes. The 35-324-8 is just a bad mismatch to the current combo which means it'll make less HP and quite a bit less Tq than the more conservative cam I suggested.

 

[5.0Flareside]

custom grind cam is still IMO the way to go.........

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Here's the real deal.. despite what you want out of this motor the heads(and the intake) are going to limit the powerband to about 4500rpm so even the 35-320-8 gives you a lot of room to grow. You should see just about 300 ponies with this combo but add the heads and intake this motor should have(AFR185 and TFS-R intake) and you're bolting on 100hp with no other changes. The 35-324-8 is just a bad mismatch to the current combo which means it'll make less HP and quite a bit less Tq than the more conservative cam I suggested.

Alright... So you feel confident with running stock lifters, pushrods, rockers, springs, etc with that cam?

If I decide to swap on a new intake down the road, do you think it would gain a little more horsepower?

It seems like I'll be out on the edge of the 19 lb/hr injectors. Should I swap to 24 pound injectors so the 19 lb injectors don't run near their 100% range, or will that cause me tuning problems?

Ryan

 

[O'Rattlecan]

What I'm really trying to do here is build this once rather than constantly swapping in parts chasing 10-20 hp at any given time. I don't mind spending a little money to get this right the first time.

Do you have suggestions?

Ryan

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I've been doing more reading and I came across a few articles that talk about how you can trick the computer into delivering more fuel with 24 pound injectors by getting a 24 pound mass air flow sensor.

http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/charts/Fuel_Injectors_and_Adaptors.pdf

They said it's not the ideal way to do it, but since I wouldn't be reaching the full duty cycle of the 24 pound injectors (and it's not even THAT far out of normal spec) I could probably get away with it.

Ryan

 

[primetime]

Get a Dart block, a 4" crank and a forged bottom end, CNC`d TFS highports, drill a Victor for injectors, throw twin hair dryers and several grand worth of EFI and dyno tuning at it, and you`ll have the most speed and only have to do it once. It`ll drive nice to.

Or, set a budget that your comfortable with, decide what you want the truck to do, what you`re comfortable sacrificing in driveability to get there, and be realistic.

This sounds like your first build. Don`t go buying into all that bull**** that "you need MAF, you need this, you need that, blah blah blah, yada yada yada". Put together a nice rebuilt short block with quality machine work, the heads you have, and a cam recommended by the techs at whichever cam company you choose, and revel in the tire smoking beasty you created.

Because I am here to tell you, a 351 with GT40 heads a top of the page cam, and a fresh bottom end is going to shove that truck of yours around real well. 10s? No. Lotta fun hooptie? Yes sir.

And after you get bored with it, then you build more speed into. That`s what makes the whole process fun.

Good luck! Looking forward to the updates.

 

[Fellro]

I'm going to let a pro do the transmission. I don't know how to put more magic into it.

Ryan

Didn't figure you would try tearing into it, and would advise against such. Too many special tools, and too easy to mess up. I was more thinking pull it now and take it to a pro, do a cash and carry. Saves the r&r cost.

 

[primetime]

Didn't figure you would try tearing into it, and would advise against such. Too many special tools, and too easy to mess up. I was more thinking pull it now and take it to a pro, do a cash and carry. Saves the r&r cost.

You also won`t have to ask yourself "why didn`t I do this then?" And believe me, it`s easier to do it now, rather than later when you`d rather be driving it.

 

[conanski]

Alright... So you feel confident with running stock lifters, pushrods, rockers, springs, etc with that cam?

Yep.. that's what's in my motor.

If I decide to swap on a new intake down the road, do you think it would gain a little more horsepower?

yes every little bit helps.

It seems like I'll be out on the edge of the 19 lb/hr injectors. Should I swap to 24 pound injectors so the 19 lb injectors don't run near their 100% range, or will that cause me tuning problems?

Yes it'll cause problems, and I've already told you how to get around that.. simply install an adjustable FPR and crank up the pressure a little.

 

[conanski]

What I'm really trying to do here is build this once rather than constantly swapping in parts chasing 10-20 hp at any given time. I don't mind spending a little money to get this right the first time.

Unfortunately there is no way around that, if you put the big cam in you'll be stuck driving an underperforming slug that will piss you off because it's so sluggish for what you spent building it. If you step up and get appropriate sized heads and intake for it now you also need larger injectors, a larger fuel pump, a larger MAF meter, and a tuner to make it all cooperate. This "calibrated" MAF meter trick you read about only works at WOT, everywhere else the motor will run like *** because fueling requirements are now completely different than what a stock motor needs. Bottom line is there are no shortcuts, you build to the limit of what 19lb injectors and the stock computer calibrations can handle because the next step is hugh and expensive.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Okay, well I'll look into adjustable fuel pressure regulators today. I might reassemble with 19lb injectors and the old intake and make those upgrades round 2. I don't want to pull the motor again but I don't mind a little top end work.

Ryan