1991 ford f250 break down

[DNFXDLI]

Checked cap/rotor and timing?

 

[heifner]

Cap doesn't have any cracks I didn't figure that it would just get knocked out of time for no reason would the distributor cause this kind of throttle issue

 

[DNFXDLI]

You should inspect the cap and rotor...there is the possibility that the distributor slipped. If you check the basic things first, you can eliminate them from being the problem.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

This could be a timing issue.

My other 'wild $$$' guess is that you might have a serious intake/vacuum leak somewhere that is throwing off your air/fuel ratio.

You need to pull the codes, dude. See if you can learn something from the computer.

Ryan

 

[heifner]

I'm leaning towards a leak by the exaust manifold because that's where the chugging noise and sounds like it's sucking air in through it almost

 

[heifner]

I've always had quiet a bit of blow by but it normally idles at two grand And now at 500 rpm if that what's the thing on the frame that the metal fuel lines come out of could that be clogged I'm still determined the gas I had was bad by the smell and the color so could that be gunked up? Also I noticed sometimes when trying to start it the battery light flashes like it does have enough juice

 

[DNFXDLI]

Sounds like you might have several things going on, you need to eliminate each step by step. If you have low voltage that can be a problem as well.

 

[Bruners4]

Also do a good compression check. This would help to eliminate low compression.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

idling at 2 grand isn't right anyway. That needs to be resolved as well.

Ryan

 

[heifner]

So I left the air filter box cover off and it started good idled at 1700 like normal took carb cleaner sprayed it where it could be leaking and it did rev up but while idling if I pressed the throttle it'd kill it, when I first started it today it wouldn't idle without the clutch in I had to slowly let it out for it to idle in nuetral

 

[cbaker65]

Check the throttle body base gasket,if it leaks air,then
it wont harley run,or will run rough.

An did you say you have duel tanks?If you did,an dont use the othe at all,then you may have picked up some
debris from it.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

You need to pull codes.

Ryan

 

[Evan's f250]

What about an ignition module? That could certainly cause the truck to stop running or run like complete crap. I agree, 1700 rpm at idle is high. Somewhere in the 650-900 rpm range would be more practical.

 

[heifner]

I'm going to try the fuel pump relay and check fuel pressure does anyone know what the specs are

 

[heifner]

Also It does have dual tanks and I only use the small one in the rear and I tried the big one in front and it sent all it's fuel to the rear tank and that's the one that had bad fuel and that I was usuing when it stopped running on me

 

[heifner]

It idles high because it has a aftermarket maf sensor for whatever reason had it when I bought it and tested it and it's still good

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Well it's not still good if it's causing it to idle that high.

Have you checked your idle set screw? Has that been tampered with?

What codes are your computer showing?

Ryan

 

[heifner]

Still don't know what codes are showing but I did learn this I put my rear tank back up since it was full of gas plugged in the fuel pump on rear tank and hoses now when I switch to the rear tank I don't hear the fuel pump but I did before I dropped it then I switched to the front tank and the fuel pump for it was louder then ever

 

[cbaker65]

Still don't know what codes are showing but I did learn this I put my rear tank back up since it was full of gas plugged in the fuel pump on rear tank and hoses now when I switch to the rear tank I don't hear the fuel pump but I did before I dropped it then I switched to the front tank and the fuel pump for it was louder then ever

It sounds like something is getting restricted causing the fuel pump
to work harder.I would definitly clean the fuel system out an check
any filters.When you run a tank nearly empty,it will pickup trash.
My daughter ran outta gas in a fuel injected car,it cost us $500.00
bucks to have it fixed.

 

[Tayter]

So update on it, all fuel pumps are good it turns over like its wanting to run it cant get fuel or no spark, check the distributor cap and rotor and they are pretty wore and toasty looking so I'm going to replace them tomorrow would the fuel pressure regulator cause these issues? What are the chances of it to go bad while pullen a scissor lift and just stop running going down the road? im short on funds to rent the tester so is there any other way to test it? thanks