I wouldn't pull the cab if it's inlet pipes. Removing the trans. is all that is necessary. I'm doing a high pressure fuel pump and a set of injectors right now with the cab on. Not nearly as bad as rumor has it.
Wait... I've got two apart right now... one is full of gasoline, so that's not a problem you can blame on the engine... but it's still costing the customer $10K... and that sorry part is that it was his FIRST fill up...and I've got one with a leaking flex pipe... memories of 6.0?
Personally, I find cab removal a total waste of time... but it can be done, keeping in mind the cabs are substantially heavier than pick-up cabs, and require removal of seats and carpet to gain access to the bolts.
I'd say a hydrometer is only good for removing extra coolant from the bottle... a refractometer is the best way to check coolant out, along with PH testing. Also, anytime that coolant has vented THROUGH the degas bottle cap, it needs to be replaced... so your cap may be toast if it has vented...
The secondary alternator would run of another drive belt, not off the main accessory drive. I imagine that with some type of custom belt tensioner you may be able to do it. What you might want to do is look into a mounting bracket that a body outfitter may use to mount a hydraulic pump. They...
I was reading a broadcast message today that said they are revising the procedure for removing the right rocker cover, so as to not break the heater hose.
Sorry to hear that. Where I come from, I get the final say in situations like that... Ever since I told them that is the way it is going to be if they want me to continue working there...
I had the same issue with my Explorer... after hours of chasing the noise, I found the inner ball sockets to be dried up. Just separate the outers from the knuckle and move the tie-rod up and down... you should feel it.
I just had a 550 with an intermittent no start, and a check engine light. It had codes for glow plug module communication issues and some other network code that I can't remember. Turned out to need a cluster. Lesson to be learned that with these trucks, if ANY welding is to be done, ALL the...
I find those particular coils are hit and miss. Sometimes you can get away with replacing just one, and other times once one fails, they fail one after another. You can never predict a break down, but that's all a part of driving... unfortunately.
Sometimes (for some reason) turning the headlamps on and off will help to "wake" the EATC head... but to fix it permanently, it likely needs a new head.
Couldn't you install the heads, then install the studs, just as you would with bolts? All the head studs that I have seen use a hex key to tighten the stud, so to me it seems possible, yet I have not tried it.
Ford changed their transmission accronyms in 95 or 96 for some reason. The E4OD turned into a 4R100, the AOD turned into the 4R70W, the A4LD turned into the 4R44E/4R55E... and then there were the transaxles, but they don't matter here...
Oh, I don't think the 4R70W was not bigger than the...
The thing is... they make leaps and bounds to try and make these things run clean... which they did, and very well, to the point that we run these things in the shop with no hoses most of the time... but to some I guess that means tieing up a few ponies... I wonder what kind of EPA fines he...