General Dentside Discussion V2

[fatherdoug]

I had my State Farm agent put classic antique insurance on my truck and wanted to value it at over $30K, but the underwriters came back and put it at $14K, but told me I needed to get an appraisal. I had planned on getting one anyway at some point, but I was a little disappointed that they only thought my truck was worth $14K for complete replacement. Oh well. I hope the guy I'm going to get it appraised thinks differently and glad I kept my receipts.

You fared better than I did. I was told by my State Farm agent that they offered nothing of the sort. I could only get full coverage for the value of a 30 year old truck. I guess I will have to ask again!

 

[LEB Ben]

I had my State Farm agent put classic antique insurance on my truck and wanted to value it at over $30K, but the underwriters came back and put it at $14K, but told me I needed to get an appraisal. I had planned on getting one anyway at some point, but I was a little disappointed that they only thought my truck was worth $14K for complete replacement. Oh well. I hope the guy I'm going to get it appraised thinks differently and glad I kept my receipts.

Ask around about appraisers...some are more generous than others. But, once you get that appraisal you're looking for, insurance shouldn't have a problem covering that amount. I went through the same thing with Hagerty on Red...once I got the appraisal they were willing to jump from 15k to 25k pretty easy.

You fared better than I did. I was told by my State Farm agent that they offered nothing of the sort. I could only get full coverage for the value of a 30 year old truck. I guess I will have to ask again!

I remember in high school when Red was still in my Dad's name that we had state farm...and they ended up just being a middle man for Hagerty for classic insurance.

 

[m78]

I need to do this. My dent is only insured for the original sale price.

 

[LEB Ben]

For anyone interested...I'll be going through part inventory this weekend to try and thin it out some. I don't have any real details, I don't really have a clue what all I have. Off the top of my head, I know I'll be getting rid of some racetrack trim, some body panels, doors, hoods, a tailgate or two (have a complete Bronco tailgate), emblems, knobs, handles, engine components (accessories, original part, brackets and some go fast goodies) and things of that nature. All OEM stuff in good driver condition, some painted, some primed black. I do have some NOS stuff (with duplicates) that I could part with for the right price. If you have something you want or have been looking for, lemme know and I'll put it off to the side. After this weekend, I'll post a for sale thread of items I filter out if no one lets me know what they may want.

Finished going through all my parts, I've posted pics of what's left in my gallery, I'll post a for sale thread in the next couple of days. A guy on a local board took most of the really good stuff and big ticket items. The items remaining are mainly beater to dd quality, and a couple items that are hard to find (like beside tool box trim) that could use a refurb.

 

[LEB Ben]

I've got a line on a 77, 100/150 (can't remember which) 2by, short bed, 302...pretty sweet little rig. I'm more than likely going to pick it up. I don't plan on keeping it, just buying it from a guy down on his luck and I plan on reselling it. If I were to want a 2by, this one is one I'd probably keep. I don't have any pics yet, but I figured I'd give you guys first crack at calling dibs. When I do get pics, I'll post a classified.

 

[fatherdoug]

Replaced the passenger rubber door seal today - the part that fits on the door itself. I've done the rest of the doors except for this one. I couldn't get any 3M adhesive locally so I went with a permatex product(16BR). We will see how it compares since all the others were done with 3M.

 

[LEB Ben]

Dunno where all these shorties are coming from...but I found another. With as well as the 77 transaction went, I think I'll bite on this one too. 79 with a 302, rebuilt C4 (3500 miles ago), would be otherwise pristine...but had a carb fire and scorched the hood. 'Sky Blue' and white tu-tone...looks to be well optioned. A/C works...not a ding or dent on the truck. Full race track trim looks amazing. Guy has owned it since it had 1600 miles on it (1980). Swapped carbs, runs perfectly...haven't decided if I wanna keep the goodies and part the rest out or sell it and still quadruple my money.


Edit...if anyone is interested in parts or whole, shoot me a note.

 

[m78]

Yesterday I saw a 78-79 , 4 door Bronco, in a drive way while coming back from my sisters. I had never seen it before.

 

[fatherdoug]

Is that a Centurion conversion?

 

[LEB Ben]

Is that a Centurion conversion?

I don't believe the centurion conversions go back that far.

 

[Jolly Green]

Not too long ago, I spied with my little eye a 78-79 Bronco four door conversion with a 77 and back F-Series grille. I did at least a triple-take.

 

[m78]

I just started my dent for the first time in 3 months. The gas always seems to dry up from the carburetor and I have to use either to help get it started.
The last time I drove it was in April , and I put 4 miles on it.

 

[BuzzGun79]

I just started my dent for the first time in 3 months. The gas always seems to dry up from the carburetor and I have to use either to help get it started.
The last time I drove it was in April , and I put 4 miles on it.

Pretty common for a vehicle that sits alot Mark..you may want to stick a new rebuild kit and a new float in the carb to freshen it up a bit..this should help with the hard starting.I try to run mine at least once a month in the off season this keeps the fuel moving so it wont deteriorate the parts from non use.I also use Stabil in the tank and run it 1/2 hr before parking her down for the winter..had no prolblems last spring,fired right up after a few cranks.

 

[m78]

Pretty common for a vehicle that sits alot Mark..you may want to stick a new rebuild kit and a new float in the carb to freshen it up a bit..this should help with the hard starting.I try to run mine at least once a month in the off season this keeps the fuel moving so it wont deteriorate the parts from non use.I also use Stabil in the tank and run it 1/2 hr before parking her down for the winter..had no prolblems last spring,fired right up after a few cranks.

The thing runs near perfect and starts on a touch of the key for a week. If it sits for 2 weeks, I have to crank the hellloutofit to get the gas back up.
I also keep stabil in it and everything else,

 

[BuzzGun79]

Is this a 2brl carb mark?....it is slowly draining out while sitting,Ide check all carb screws and base for tightness along with fuel lines and hoses first..then go from there.FYI had a similar situation with the ol mans Mark v back in the day..turned out to be a casting crack in the seam of the float bowl of the carb

 

[m78]

Yes its a 2brl. I've got new steel tube down to the new fuel pump. I wonder if its getting sucked all the way back to the tank.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Could be Mark...Maybe the needle valve is stuck open in the float bowl,or come off the float..this would also make it drain back.fyi the 2brl ford carb is very easy to remove the top to check along with rebuilding in short theres not much to them very basic.cleaning of casting along with checking for casting pits & cracks,setting the float level is eccential in proper operation and easy to do...worst case senerio would be to rip the gasket upon removal of the top and have to get a kit...the needle valve comes in the kit along with directions,diagrams.the float is seperate around 5 bucks.pending on the carb model kits run between 20-50 bucks.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Mark another tip that comes to mind should you decide to undertake the carb yourself is....upon removal of the top there is a small check ball in the venturi of the carb..directions will show the location...Do Not turn the carb upside down till you know the location of the ball.once the carb is reassembled do not turn it upside down either.

 

[fatherdoug]

I replaced the high beam indicator lamp this morning, and I broke one of the locking connector tabs off the electrical connection to the gauge cluster. I Don't really want to rewire the whole connector just to get a lock on one side of the connection. We'll see if it stays in place.

 

[m78]

I replaced the high beam indicator lamp this morning, and I broke one of the locking connector tabs off the electrical connection to the gauge cluster. I Don't really want to rewire the whole connector just to get a lock on one side of the connection. We'll see if it stays in place.

Sheez Doug , haven't you learned how to finesse a 35 year old lady yet ?