Whats the point of a hemi? do they realy have anything over any other desings that would make it worth getting some from someone like kasse?

well yes and no. there really isnt anything bad about them. the only thing that makes an engine(or the heads to be exact) a Hemi is that the top of the head where the valves sit are in a hemispherical shape (or half circle and round). it makes for a more evenly distributed ignition/fuel delivery into the cylinder

Ok so theres no realy good reason to pay an arm and a leg to get hemi heads for my big block? and i can get good enough of a gain on like edelbrock, trick flo, or any other good manufacture like them? cause i was lookin at boss 9 heads from kasse and the were thousands of dollars.

For a street truck nah, you don't need them. But on an all out race engine where your trying to wring out every last scrap of power than yeah, I'd say get them..

On the other hand; IF you have the cash and want to, and your buildng a stroker the definitely yes I'd say get them.. jmho

Terrell460 said:

Ok so theres no realy good reason to pay an arm and a leg to get hemi heads for my big block? and i can get good enough of a gain on like edelbrock, trick flo, or any other good manufacture like them? cause i was lookin at boss 9 heads from kasse and the were thousands of dollars.

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As Aaron said, it really depends on what you are building the engine for and your budget. Hemi heads are available from very few suppliers and are a custom built item. Kasse specializes in full race engines, he is not really in the market to make your DD go a little faster. Are Hemi heads superior yes in most cases, but as with all things, it really depends on all the components selected for the engine build. Heads, intake, bore, stroke, exhaust, air induction system, cam selected for engine components AND use application (Note: Cam should always be the last thing selected). Engine flow and performance are influenced by all of these things, and you must decide where you want the power band and how the engine/vehicle will be used the majority of the time. After you get the engine figured out you are then going to have to match the drivetrain to the engine again based on usage of the vehicle if you want to maximize performance for use.

Also when you are looking for parts, do not forget Ford Performance Parts and donor parts from your local Salvage yard.

Ok cool i want to build my truck to do everything. to show off on the weekens and go in the hills every once in a while. should i be abel to depend on the old block in my truck now if it isnt damaged or should i look for a brand new oone that i can swap out with when got it built? also i have a 5 speed transmission from ford in it now. Is there places that sell better parts for it that could handel like twice the power im have with the stock 460?

Terrell460 said:

Ok cool i want to build my truck to do everything. to show off on the weekens and go in the hills every once in a while. should i be abel to depend on the old block in my truck now if it isnt damaged or should i look for a brand new oone that i can swap out with when got it built? also i have a 5 speed transmission from ford in it now. Is there places that sell better parts for it that could handel like twice the power im have with the stock 460?

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Personally if the old block is sound (have it hot tanked, magnafluxed and sonic check the cylinders) i prefer an old block to a new one because the old block has been "seasoned" and a seasoned block tends to be more durable.

If you have a manual in it now personally is would switch to an auto during the rebuild, either a C6 or 4R100. Auto has multiple benefits over a manual.

Here is a link dedicated to the 460
www.460ford.com/forum

blackhat620 said:

Personally if the old block is sound (have it hot tanked, magnafluxed and sonic check the cylinders) i prefer an old block to a new one because the old block has been "seasoned" and a seasoned block tends to be more durable.

I agree 100%

If you have a manual in it now personally is would switch to an auto during the rebuild, either a C6 or 4R100. Auto has multiple benefits over a manual.

I personally prefer a stick, but it's "user" preference.. (c6 is known for its ability to shrug off abuse.)

Here is a link dedicated to the 460
www.460ford.com/forum

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^^ the PBB of the ford big block world..

Ill definately keep that in mind. would my gass milage drop with an auto tho?

The c6 does not have an overdrive so definitely so w/ it. I don't know anything about the 4R100..

c6 is known for its ability to shrug off abuse

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Best damn tranny ever made in my opinion you really can't kill them.

yeah ford makes some bad *** powertrain. Im hopin my 10.25 full floater will handle the power i want to put out

Don't see why not..

Terrell460 said:

yeah ford makes some bad *** powertrain. Im hopin my 10.25 full floater will handle the power i want to put out

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Honestly I think you'll break your U joint before you hurt that rear end.

Terrell460 said:

Ill definately keep that in mind. would my gass milage drop with an auto tho?

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Fuel mileage will drop if final drive gearing is different and/or if the engine is not operating within its proper power band when cruising down the highway.

dragogt said:

The c6 does not have an overdrive so definitely so w/ it. I don't know anything about the 4R100..

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dragogt is correct, the C6 does not have an OD, the E4OD and its replacement the 4R100 have OD. The E4OD & 4R100 where the OD replacement of the C6. When you do your build up you will want to gear your axles so that you get the engine in its power band for your most common application. For example if you want to do serious off roading etc then you will want a lower axle ratio (numerically higher), if you want low rpms at highway cruise then you want a high axle ratio (numerically lower).

Here is a little info on the C6/E4OD/4R100
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_E4OD_transmission

Ok i figured that those rear ends were almost bullet proof. i just gota get one with posi-trac. if i stick with my old 5 speed what can i expect in the line of rebuild kits? will it include new gears along with all the bearings and seals?

Terrell460 said:

Ok i figured that those rear ends were almost bullet proof. i just gota get one with posi-trac. if i stick with my old 5 speed what can i expect in the line of rebuild kits? will it include new gears along with all the bearings and seals?

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Most rebuild kits do not include gears, just bearings and seals. Only need to replace gears if they are bad.

blackhat620 said:

Fuel mileage will drop if final drive gearing is different and/or if the engine is not operating within its proper power band when cruising down the highway.

It will also drop if you/ he looses the OD..

dragogt is correct, the C6 does not have an OD, the E4OD and its replacement the 4R100 have OD. The E4OD & 4R100 where the OD replacement of the C6. When you do your build up you will want to gear your axles so that you get the engine in its power band for your most common application. For example if you want to do serious off roading etc then you will want a lower axle ratio (numerically higher), if you want low rpms at highway cruise then you want a high axle ratio (numerically lower).

Here is a little info on the C6/E4OD/4R100
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_E4OD_transmission

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Terrell460 said:

Ok i figured that those rear ends were almost bullet proof. i just gota get one with posi-trac. if i stick with my old 5 speed what can i expect in the line of rebuild kits? will it include new gears along with all the bearings and seals?

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Why not just get a locker??

dragogt said:

Why not just get a locker??

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dont lockers mess with turning on pavement?

blackhat620 said:

Most rebuild kits do not include gears, just bearings and seals. Only need to replace gears if they are bad.

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Ok i think fourth gear is going to need some work it makes noise some times. but that could be a bearing too.