I was looking around online to see how hard it would be and if there is any kits to convert your 460s lifters to a roller lifter set up?
How hard would this be, and has any one done this before?

not sure but im kinda curious too but for the 300.

i found some solid lifters at comp cams

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...&Product_Code=836-16&Category_Code=385Lifters

89frankenford said:

not sure but im kinda curious too but for the 300.

Click to expand...

i found these at comp as well

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...duct_Code=851-12&Category_Code=FORD466Lifters

Umm no, I can find the lifters. I just can't find how you convert over to them..

Generally you buy a roller cam, lifters, and pushrods!!!

Put the cam in and the lifters slide in the lifter bores!!!(They have a link bar to keep them from turning)

Some people even use roller rockers!!!

radialarm said:

Generally you buy a roller cam, lifters, and pushrods!!!

Put the cam in and the lifters slide in the lifter bores!!!(They have a link bar to keep them from turning)

Some people even use roller rockers!!!

Click to expand...

I thought you had to have Machining done to the block to accept roller lifters?

dont quote me on this but with link bar lifters, i belive no machining will be required. the link bars go toward the center, i dont see anything else that should cause a issue.

yea well some roller lifters also require the "spider"....might be better off finding a efi 460 block and carbin it.

Oh! well hot damn them I thought it was going to be harder then just dropping them in..

roller lifters are a direct drop in all 429/460 blocks. Youre thinking about small blocks needing machine work to accept them.

The downfall is these engines dont like hydraulic roller cams and solid rollers are usually pretty extreme for a street cam. There is no reason a hydraulic flat tappet cam wont produce as much horsepower as you can stand on the street.

The reason I want like to do roller is increased engine life due to less friction in the valve train.

a solid roller will never out last a hydraulic flat tappet.

100,000 miles is very do-able with even a moderately modified 460.


Give me some other engine and truck specs and what you expect out of it.

Well I must thats news to me.
I thought solid rollers were supposed to out lost flat tappets.
Also what about the new oils not having the right about of Zinc in them?
I've read a few things that in the coming years flats wont be around to much..

Please dont take this the wrong way but you are reading all sorts of bad info.

Solid roller cam shafts are generally race only that require valve adjustment on a weekly basis. The smallest solid rollers Ive seen are in the .700" lift 280/290 @ .050 duration range. You could never keep that streetable in a 460 or even a 557 using the extra cubes to soak up the cam.

A hydraulic cam is what you want with the correct valve springs and pushrods to match. Adjust the valves correctly before start up (1/2turn past 0 lash and lock it down) and use a good roller rocker like Crane Golds. Break it in using Rotella 10w40 diesel oil, a quart of Comp Cams break in oil and a Jomar no bypass oil filter. Keep the rpms at 2000-2500 for a minimum of 20min. After the break change the oil and filter and using regular motor oil one more quart of CC break in oil. The weight oil used will vary depending on crank and rod clearances and intended use. 10w30 or 10w40 is a good street and mild race oil. Change the oil and filter again after the first 100 miles or so.

I just built a $10,000 521ci (460 stroker) making damn near 700hp on pump gas and used a hydrualic cam. I chose not to use a solid roller due to reliability and driveability on the street. The motor is scary strong and pulls hard to 6000rpm. A cam change to a solid roller would have this motor making closer to 800hp and pull up to around 6500-6800rpm

Its usually not easy to change peoples mind once they think theyve got an idea in their head but trust me....you dont want a solid roller in a longevity 460 build thats street driven.


Check 460ford.com for more info.


engine pic

STGFordCrazy04 said:

Click to expand...

Ga ga

Well thank you Kris.
I was just going off of what i've heard and read before.
This 460 isn't going to be a race engine or towing engine, I just wanted a good strong engine, and I've been told by more then a few people that I wanted to go with a solid or Hydro roller cam..
But I see theres lot of ill informed gear heads out there..
Thank you very much much

TexasNomad said:

I see theres lot of ill informed gear heads out there..

Click to expand...

Yes there are. Its my biggest pet peave.


Do your reading on 460ford or search to see if Monsterbaby is a member here. They will give you the correct info a whole lot better than I can.


Personally, for a reliable 100,000mile 460 this is exactly what Id build

D1VE block with necessary clean up
Stock crank, truck rods and a good set of hyper pistons - Speedpro H535P is a good .030 piston that will net you around 9.3:1 compression for regular pump gas

D3VE heads - stock valves, mild exhaust port clean up, converted to pedastal mount rocker arms and guide plates, a good set of roller rockers - Crane golds Ford Racing blues or Trick Flow blacks are all the same. Buy the cheapest ones.

For a cam something in the Xtreme 4x4 line from Comp Cams is a great torque low RPM cam. Your truck doesnt have to be 4wd to run this cam :-D I like part number X4262H cam and lifter with the matching Comp cams 926 springs (the spring number is off memory check it before you buy anything) With 7* steel retainers and locks and the correct length pushrods. You also want a timing chain from a 68-70 429/460 set straight up. After 70(starting in 71) timing was retarded 3* for emissions. `They sell the master kit with everything you need all together or you can piece it together.

The stock duraspark dizzy and ignition box would do just fine in this application but a MSD6AL would be a nice addition.

Id use a Weiland Stealth (more top end) or Performer (more bottom end) intake with a 1" open spacer and a 670cfm Holley

1 3/4" primary long tube headers and a 2.5" exhaust with some good mufflers. Flowmasters are very restrictive and will choke some horsepower out from under you.

this combo should make around 450hp/500 tq and still get 12-14mpg.

I'm running a HEI dizzy on my 460 right now, I like them because they are simple and work.
The only reason I would want to run a MSD would be the ability to govern the RPMs, so I don't spin the engine in to cheese

What brand HEI? Please dont say procomp.