Yeah buddy!! its just going to take me a wile I don't like to cut corners and skimp out on primo parts..its kinda depressing but the sound of a 416 would put a smile on anyone's face...
C6AE-R: needs complete retso 70 bucks I also would like to install cj valves
C8AE-H: has been restored 200 maybe 180 would I be able to install the cj valves? these are my options right now you're opinion is appreciated
C6AE-R: needs complete retso 70 bucks I also would like to install cj valves
C8AE-H: has been restored 200 maybe 180 :guns: would I be able to install the cj valves? these are my options right now you're opinion is appreciated smilieFordlogo
sound like I should upgrade? ..I think I'm just going to rebuild the ol girl... or sell her... how much you think she would go for? 1000? just exploring my options...
No just an old sears light..Damn, the cyl heads on this old truck are D2EA-AA and on the passenger side C8EA-something.... I'm assuming its been a long time haha well I guess its time for a rebuild, I knew it might come down to this so a wile back ago I picked up a 428 crank smiliestirthepot
Well I thought I had her running good with an initial of 20 last night.. so I fired her up this morning and she backfired a couple of times and started running real rough. So I reset the timing what an initial of 14 and when I got the light the 0* mark was pasted the needle? so I turned the...
Also there is no jumping (advancing & retarding) when the V/A is disconnected.. So the jumping was defiantly caused by the V/A
I have another question on timing when I set the timing for an initial of 16 what should I get when shes running? 0*??
Thanks for the link BG, I have some good news I did some trouble shooting because I was concerned with the HB and timing chain. I plugged both V/A and the carb and checked the timing on the, I started with an initial of 16 and when I put the light on the HB the needle was pointing 0* does this...