when to replace shocks?

[john112deere]

My '09 Ranger rides like a buckboard, and has since the day I bought it. (Serious- my friend just bought an '08 F-350, and I'd say the rides are roughly comparable when unloaded.)

I drive a fair number of miles on dirt roads- and I drive 'em kinda fast. (Fast, that is, if you're used to paved roads. About normal speed for those of us still lucky enough to live where the roads that go places haven't all been covered in asphalt.)

Been figuring to slap a set of Bilsteins in the thing when the OEM shocks wear out... But I'm not sure I'm really sure how to decide when it's time. I'm at about 40k miles now- probably 45k before it's warm enough out that I have any desire to pick up a wrench for non-critical repair work.

I replaced the factory shocks in my '97 Ranger at about 220k miles, when they got so bad that I couldn't brake and steer simultaneously. I paid ~$20/corner for the replacements, and put 50k on 'em.

Money's not quite as tight as it was back in those days, but I'm still the same cheap SOB I've always been.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Bilsteins ASAP.

Ryan

 

[LEB Ben]

Subscribed...I've never been sure when to replace shocks either. I usually realize it's time when the vehicle is still trying to settle out from the bump I hit a few hundred yards ago.

 

[SuperCab]

Yeah... That's the only way I know... It starts feeling soft on bumps and around corners...

 

[m78]

Subscribed...I've never been sure when to replace shocks either. I usually realize it's time when the vehicle is still trying to settle out from the bump I hit a few hundred yards ago.

I'd say that pretty much sums it up. Jump off the bumper, if it bounces more then twice, it's time.

I think its hilarious seeing some one driving down the road with the rear just bouncing away. Although it is dangerous, more chance of the wheel leaving the ground and loosing traction.

With that being said, I've been putting off the front shocks on my BII.
It's not bad yet. I figure I can do the brakes , rotors and shocks all at once.

 

[john112deere]

The bounce test seemed easier to do on my softer-sprung 2wd.

This one settles out pretty fast all the same; it does seem to have a bit more vibration at highway speed than it did new, though that could be at least partially tires.

 

[m78]

softer tires may seem mushy at times but not bouncy.

 

[john112deere]

The more I think about it, my real question is this: Is there any reason I shouldn't replace the OEM shocks as soon as it's warm enough to work outside this spring? (EDIT: besides the sticker shock- as I said above, the last set of four Ranger shocks I bought weren't much more than one Bilstein is.)

Since Bilsteins have a lifetime warranty, I can get 'em replaced if they wear out before the truck does, right? So no matter how many miles I put on the thing, I only have to purchase one set of four?

My current shocks are not "bad." However, I intend to keep this truck longer than they will last, especially considering the way it gets driven.

 

[m78]

Wouldn't it be nice to compare the rides of our vehicles.

Shocks don't "suspend". Suspension suspends and shocks damper the bounce of said supension.

 

[F150]

Wouldn't it be nice to compare the rides of our vehicles.

Shocks don't "suspend". Suspension suspends and shocks damper the bounce of said supension.

This. Look for visable signs of leakage, or the bounce test for shock replacement. For a softer ride you will need to change the springs. or load up a bunch of weight in the bed. Trucks ride like trucks.....

 

[john112deere]

In case I wasn't clear...I harbor no delusions that replacing the shocks will make this ride like a Cadillac. Or even improve it any.

I mentioned the ride, and the dirt roads, to explain what a beating my suspension (and, consequently, the rest of the truck) is subjected to on a regular basis. I don't actually know if the stiff ride is easier or harder on the shocks...but it sure seems to be hard on everything else when I hit a washboard at 45.

I would be pretty pleased if I could improve the trucks ability to continue going the direction it was pointed prior to hitting a bump, though- I've been driving pickups enough years to hardly notice when I have to countersteer after a bump on a tangent (straight stretch of road) but every once in a while this one gets pretty squirrelly.

 

[Beach66Bum]

OK, read all the suggestions about shocks for the front and rear, but after reading your last post it seems more to me that you need a steering stabilizer.
"trucks ability to continue going..." My BroncoII was terrible for that exact condition, but after putting on the shock, it never wandered when driving down washboard roads aka, logging roads.

 

[DNFXDLI]

Ian, I think going to those shocks is going to improve your ride...speaking from my ATV experience a couple of years ago, those Bilsteins are inpressive.

 

[Fordzilla80]

Ian, have you ever crawled under your Ranger and looked to see where the bump stops for the control arms are? The bump stops on my Ranger are just about 2 inches away from the control arms. I'm pretty sure that if yours are as close to the control arms as mine, it may explain why both of our trucks ride so rough. I have to go through some of our forest roads at 10 mph because any faster and I feel like I'm running over a field filled with varying heights of rock, even though the roads aren't really that bad.

 

[polarbear]

The bounce test seemed easier to do on my softer-sprung 2wd.

This one settles out pretty fast all the same; it does seem to have a bit more vibration at highway speed than it did new, though that could be at least partially tires.

I'm thinking tires are more the culprit than the shocks. Cannot believe the difference a set of Michelin primacy's made on the Mercury (It had Michelin X's on it before).

 

[john112deere]

She's due for two new sets of tires (four snows, four all-seasons) this year anyhow.

My checking account might not be happy about it, but I will.

 

[m78]

I just took a shock off the front of my f250 and the piston would just slide in and out. And I couldn't tell it was bad by the ride. But then I barely drive it.

 

[john palmer]

Alignment?

 

[73F100Shortbed]

Shocks are recommended every 50k miles,but of course just about everyone has gone way more than that on their shocks. When I did shocks on my 73 I just put cheap autozone shocks on for $20 per shock and have been happy with them. In the past I spent quite a bit more with KYB shocks and was happy with those as well, but nowadays I'm more inclined to consider price.

 

[racsan]

shoot, my wife's '97 S-blazer has 190,000 on it with original shocks, i do plan on getting that done this spring. the ranger has 145,000 on it, front shocks original, rears were done a few years back, somewhere around the 100K mile point.