Upgrade Bendix P/A to 79 steering

[LEB Ben]

Alright fellas...I'm getting lost in a sea of information and hack jobs. I'm on the verge of swapping Red from the Bendix power assist steering system to the 79 250 steering system. However, I'm getting lost in what's actually needed and from what vehicle(s). So I'm hoping someone here can layout a parts list for me, and potentially even a procedure (Buck, I'm looking at you).

I'm assuming, anything that was included in the 79 steering system, I'll need, so pump, bracket, lines, gear box, drag link, pitman arm, what else?


Next, I'm not real sure on what measurements need to be taken, or how this bad boy gets mounted up?


I'm planning on going with all new parts on this, so vendors would be helpful as well...I'll probably source some parts for mock up, but that's extent of pulling jy parts for this. Any and all help and info will be much appreciated.

 

[BKW]

Garrison Power Assist P/S: 1973 F250 4WD, 1974 F250 4WD before serial number T80,001.

Bendix Power Assist P/S: 1974 F250 4WD from serial number T80,001, 1975/76 F250 4WD, 1977 F250 4WD before serial number Y20,001.

Ford integral P/S: 1977 F250 4WD from serial number Y20,001 (not a High Boy), 1978/79 F250 4WD.

 

[LEB Ben]

Ford integral P/S: 1977 F250 4WD from serial number Y20,001 (not a High Boy), 1978/79 F250 4WD.

Yes...that's what I'm aiming at getting to.

Bendix Power Assist P/S: 1974 F250 4WD from serial number T80,001, 1975/76 F250 4WD, 1977 F250 4WD before serial number Y20,001..

And ^^^That is what I currently have.


And now, I'm just not sure what the correct path is to get from Bendix P/A to integral. I dunno what parts can be re-used (if any), what parts need to be bought, which parts need to be re-worked to fit, which parts will be direct bolt-ons or which parts need to be welded in.

 

[bucks77ford]

Everything I used came from the 78/79 F250 4x4 application. I'm not sure about the bracket on your truck to accomodate the power steering pump or not. If not, you'll need that. AFA the lines are concerned, I was able to use stock line from the 78/79 application, but depending on the location of the pump on your application will differ slightly. Of course the high pressure line is really all your concerned with and that can be made if need be.

Here is a link for kit FYI: expensive, but showing that there is somewhat of a bolt on kit out there. Something to consider would be just to get the mounting bracket for the gear box (which is using a different box than the 4 bolt one: I do think the 2wd box that was used in the early F250s 3 bolt are cheaper.) That way you don't have to modify and weld the frame at all. Or just make your own.

http://www.benchworksteering.com/F250conversion.htm

One thing to check first would be on if you really need to cut the crossmember. It may be possible you would need to just notch more out of the core support and not the crossmember. The borgeson shaft will work if the box is a little further away to use a stock shaft.

Concerning my application: Once I had the crossmember cut, I tack welded a plate to the frame and then used a big C clamp to temporary mount the gear box and bolt up the drag link to see where I needed to drill the holes for mounting bolts. Once I had the gear box and drag link temporary mounted and made sure everything worked fine than I was able to weld and drill. (Good thing I have a brother who can weld really well. I was able to cut and tack, but for the final weld I'm glad he was able to help me out. ) The other thing I did was for the mounting plate, I just used grade 8 nuts on the back of the plate since I won't do any off roading. Others make it so the mounting bolt goes completely through the frame like the original 78/79 application was. That's up to you.

You'll still have to notch a little bit out of the core support, but not much.

Parts list: Power steering pump (and accomdating bracket for your application), drag link, pitman arm, gear box, power steering line (for low pressure I just used a good hydralic hose), steering shaft.

 

[LEB Ben]

Thanks a ton Buck...that really cleared a bunch up for me. I was looking for some hand holding, and that did the trick. Much appreciated.


Looks like it's damn near a necessity to pull the front clip too.

 

[Mil1ion]

 

[bucks77ford]

I also was using a 78/79 tilt column so I was able to use the shaft in the pic. Borgeson makes a bunch of shafts so you shouldn't have problem there.

I don't think you'll need the front clip pulled, but I'd sure pull the fender and possible the inner fender to make room, Oh and the hood.

I've seen pics of guys using the Van application for the power steering pump too as D showed in the diagram. I'd really liked to have found all the brackets out of a van to a 460 (A/C, alt, power steering)

 

[bucks77ford]

The other issue would be front axle. I have the D44 HD open knuckle that was pretty much used in the 78/79s. Ben, don't you have a LP D60? Is there a steering arm on the drivers side to accomodate the drag link?

 

[LEB Ben]

Correct on the LP60...but I can't, for the life of me, remember how exactly the system is set up. The 4x4 cc's had the LP60 in them, so maybe I need to take a look at one of those too...to see if there are any differences.

 

[Mil1ion]

Uncle Buck,

I still have that set of pulley's and mounts for a 78 F150 4x2 ,460 w/AC for sale.

I have been very surprised they never sold especially after me restoring them to factory.

There are tons of 70's 80's 460 Vans up this way.
I wish I knew you wanted the ham can PS mount last year when I made my last Calgary wrecker run.

 

[m78]

["The other thing I did was for the mounting plate, I just used grade 8 nuts on the back of the plate since I won't do any off roading. Others make it so the mounting bolt goes completely through the frame like the original 78/79 application was. That's up to you" ]

I'd like to add that if you put the mounting bolts all the way through the frame, you should add some steel tube to the inside for each bolt. This will allow you to tighten the bolts without crushing the frame.

 

[BKW]

In 1978, Ford changed the P/S pump on everything (Passenger Cars/F100/350/Bronco) except Econolines.

The new pump has a plastic reservoir, different mounting brackets than were used previously and use a qwik disconnect fitting for the P/S pressure hose.

1977 and earlier pumps (have a steel reservoir) use different P/S pressure hoses, mounting brackets. The various P/S pulley's are the same.

 

[bucks77ford]

["The other thing I did was for the mounting plate, I just used grade 8 nuts on the back of the plate since I won't do any off roading. Others make it so the mounting bolt goes completely through the frame like the original 78/79 application was. That's up to you" ]

I'd like to add that if you put the mounting bolts all the way through the frame, you should add some steel tube to the inside for each bolt. This will allow you to tighten the bolts without crushing the frame.

Yes, I forgot to add that. Good Point.

 

[Baitshop]

Most of the meat and bones has been covered here, but there are a few little things I'd like to add.

1) When I originally did my conversion, I didn't change the power steering pump. The old 77 single belt deal worked decent with my 35's, but when they were aired down it was working the belt real hard to turn them[read squealing]. I later switched to a later model pump(80's model one ton) that had two belts.

2) My highboy had the HD44, so the following may or may not apply to you. I bought a stock replacement link for between the knuckle and the pitman arm(79 style). When I was going to mount my box I turned it lock to lock to find center, then mounted the link to the box and the box to the knuckle. I then fit the box to the frame in that location. I had to notch the crossmember, but not a lot. I did not have to notch the core support, though the bottom bolt for the radiator on that side is no longer used. I did all this with the front clip still on, and I was pleasantly surprised to learn that I can weld left handed. I would suggest taking the fender and inner fender off, but leaving the core support intact. It will be easier to weld and mock up, but you'll have a better idea of where everything has to be.

3) I have a couple of these boxes on a shelf if you need one. They are crusty, and I would give them an overhaul before putting them on a truck as nice as yours. I could do that for you, but I'm sort of busy lately, so it might be a couple weeks.

4) If I had to do it all over again, I might have gone a different route. The 78/79 deal was a definite upgrade over the old assist deal. The difference was night and day, and it made my truck much more enjoyable to drive. I wish now that I had built a crossover setup. I sled pull mine, and the 78/79 setup is less than ideal. As the front axle wraps under load, the pitman arm stays put. That causes the wheels to turn slightly. If your front end starts to bounce, that will cause the front wheels to saw back and forth even though you aren't moving the steering wheel. The same thing can happen while wheeling. The 78/79 style is more susceptible to bump steer supposedly, though I've never noticed that.

As of today I'm looking into converting my truck to crossover steering. I have read that the 78/79 box allows you to clock the pitman arm 90 degrees, though I've yet to confirm that. It might be a moot point anyhow, because I don't think the pitman will clear the spring on the driver side. I'm about tired of typing at the moment, so I'll add more if I think of anything later.

-Jared

 

[bucks77ford]

I do agree that a crossover setup would be much better. And yes, the pitarm can be re-clocked to swing left to right. It should clear the spring, but It would have to be re indexed facing the rear. However, with a stock setup there would be trouble with the drag link clearing the spring when turning. It may be possible if the passenger side was modified (would need to be modified anyway to accept a steering arm) to accept a tall steering arm of some sort to decrease the angle of the draglink. The drag link may need just a slight bend to it to still clear the spring, but may work. However, it would be tight either way and may cause problems when off roading. It seems that all the threads on crossover setups that I've read and seen pics is with trucks that have later super duty springs (more arch).

 

[Baitshop]

Sounds like you've given it some thought as well. My chassis is over at my parent's farm for the winter, so I haven't had a chance to sit and stare at it. I know it's going to be tight, if it's even possible. My truck doesn't go off road, but I don't want to be limited in that respect. I'm thinking I can make a crossover without high steer work, but I guess I'll see in a month or two when I get to looking at it. You're right though, there isn't much room between the factory springs and the frame, and my springs are well worn too.

-Jared

 

[m78]

Ben , would this be something you could use ? I can't tell what it's for by looking at it .
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/2309999305.html

 

[LEB Ben]

That's actually a helluva a deal, and I know a bunch of guys that would eat that up in a second. I can't remember if hydro assist is street legal in NC (might be full hydro that's illegal).

I think I've decided to just keep the system I have for simplicity, and go with the upgraded Redhead unit. I'll go with Lare's for the power cylinder and probably have the local shop I had do hoses last time remake the hose I sliced.


Thanks for posting though...might even be something to consider plumbing for my future bronco build though.

 

[bucks77ford]

^^^ I'm thinking that having a quality rebuild for the power assist setup will work just fine and actually might be better than the 78/79 steering. Most people dog the system because things have gotten loose and leaking. But, when working properly, the power assist will turn anything you give it. Let us know how everything turns out.

 

[Truckin4life]

full hydro is a no go in all 50 states, as far as i know hydro assist is legal, and is basically home grown power steering, so i dont see why it wouldnt be legal...