SMOG HELP NEEDED!! Those versed in CA smog chime in please!

[mofoco1]

Just failed my smog test on the 79. Everything was a pass except the CO2 which was way out of whack. Gonna have to start backtracking. This is a 460/c6 CA vehicle all the smog is intact after reinstalling what was laying there from the PO's handiwork. Carb was just rebuilt, vacuum lines all replaced, timed to 14 deg. as per the under hood sticker. The smog guy just read off a crap load of stuff that could be affecting it. Where to start boys is the ? Am I to understand that it is getting to much fuel and not enough air, is that right? I did notice the the flapper on the air cleaner is not opening when motors already nice and hot, I know the flapper works cause if I remove the vacuum hose it slams shut remove it and it opens. I am thinking that small sensor whatchumacallit under the cleaner that has vacuum to it might me the culprit, if so could it be the cause of the high CO2? What else can I do to get this to comply. Also changed the oil , plugs, filter, no additives just in case, anything else? What sensors(you know what I mean) valves should I be looking into as culprits and are they still available over the counter. Damn I thought I had this taken care of.... Help!!!!!
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[Skandocious]

What was the CO2 reading and what was the limit? This is important. Maybe post a scan of your smog report.

 

[Skandocious]

Lots of great information here:

http://www.916smog.com/smog-help.html

 

[mofoco1]

Smog Slip!!!

Here you, sorry been away checking out schools with my son. Was away from the comp for a few days. Nice Centurion below the demerit slip I got was my 95 C350 Cent.

 

[Skandocious]

From the link I posted before:

High Carbon Monoxide (CO) readings usually indicate a fuel mixture richer than ideal (rich mixture - air fuel ratio below 14.7). In general CO is an indicator of combustion efficiency. The amount of CO in a vehicle’s exhaust is directly related to its air-fuel ratio. High CO levels result from inadequate O2 supply needed for complete combustion. This is caused by a too rich mixture - too much fuel (AFR readings below the optimal 14.7, Lambda below 1.0). If your vehicle failed the Smog Inspection and has a high C.O. level, This should always be fixed first. Circumstances that can lead to high CO emissions:

* Improper float settings in carbureted vehicles

* Dirty or restricted air filters

*Excessively dirty or contaminated oil

*Saturated charcoal canister

*Non-Functioning PCV valve system

*Improper operation of the fuel delivery system

*Improperly functioning thermactor system

*Catalytic converter intervention and CO concentrations
High CO readings at the tailpipe are an clear indication that there is a problem in at least one part of the system, but an CO reading that appears within "normal" ranges or is only modestly elevated is not necessarily a reliable indicator of proper or even acceptable system performance. Low range C.O. readings are possible, and not uncommon, from a malfunctioning engine equipped with a properly functioning catalytic converter. In such circumstances, truly elevated pre-catalytic converter CO levels will be masked by the catalytic converter and the potential for a CO problem must be further evaluated in the context of other readings of abnormal gas concentrations and AFR / Lambda readings.

 

[Skandocious]

Before I offer suggestions for diagnosis, I'm a bit confused. Is this for a 79 or a 95?

 

[mofoco1]

This is a 79

the Green one was my 95 PSD C350 Centurion, sold it a few years back.

 

[mofoco1]

I did read, there is good layman's term info there for us Smog for Dummies. I am more of a suspension guy and and getting wet on mechanicals real quick with this project. The rebuild shop said they tuned the carb on a standing shop motor they have, but am now wondering, have to call them tomorrow. will have to check to see if the pump is throwing enough air. Without it actually being on a diagnostic machine though, wont it be hit and miss?

 

[mofoco1]

Anyone ?Anyone?

 

[Skandocious]

In short, you're running rich. So you either need less fuel (would most likely indicate an issue with your carb) or more air. The more air issue unfortunately could be cause by a multitude of things (see my post above). I'd start with checking the tuning on the carb to make sure it's dumping the right amount of fuel.

 

[mofoco1]

Back from vacation. Changed plugs, went Motorcraft Platinums( had to rethread 2 holes and chased all for good measure. Changed oil and filter, installed new air filter, installed 2 new gas caps as the others failed. Know not smog related, but installed my LED lights. Heres's the latest on the smog situation.
1. I unplugged the smog hose from the divertor to valve at back of motor, it did not seem like it was kicking out any air, is the smog pump putting quite a lot of volume that you can
feel or does something else kick in to open it up and have air come thru.
2. Will post others later as mama needs computer right now Thanks

 

[mofoco1]

Not sure why I am not being allowed to edit my own posting but I am going to post other symptoms.
1. Diverter doesn't seem to be allowing pump to get air out. ( is this the
diverter or the smog pump not letting me get air?
2. Their is vacuum to air cleaner as when I connect the vacuum from bottom of the cleaner base( part 9AE if not mistaken some sort of valve) to the flapper vacuum port atop of the snorkel, the flap closed with engine running. I would assume that when it gets hot enough the flap would open, but it never does? I can run it and idle for a long time and it does not open. If I undo the vacuum line it flies open reinstall and it closes again. Does that part below the cleaner react to + temperature and closed so the flapper can get cold air?
Trying to figure this things out as I need to get this thing to pass legally. Thanks for any and all help rendered so far and in the future...Mo

 

[fatherdoug]

I can't address the smog testing issue, since I've never had one done. But, I can provide a link to the '78 shop manual, which explains the temp control on the air cleaner. Look at section 29-02-81. Granted emissions systems were different from '78 to '79, and California or '49 state requirements, but the basic principles of the systems were about the same.

http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30348

 

[mofoco1]

Thanks FD. Gonna take a look now.

 

[Mil1ion]

I'm getting confused from the terminology.
Sorry.

Check the setting on the accelerator rod.

I have a glossary of emission parts if you want to see it ?

The 79's were a real pain, emissions wise

How dirty is the EGR?

Vacuum is heated and certain parts are affected in the operation.
The little solenoid on the snorkle is for the fresh air flap.
These solenoids fail and lots of people just set it in the open position.

With more info on the actual parts you're describing j could possibly help more.
Some people lean out the carb and set the timing a little more advanced for the test.

Too bad it costs so much every test.

 

[Mil1ion]

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[Mil1ion]

 

[Mil1ion]

 

[mofoco1]

Million I could almost read Greek easier than deciphering those schematics. The smog guy said way too high a CO2 level. Passed visual no problem. I am suspecting what I think is 2 things the Air BPV, am I correct that the canister with the filter the smog feeds into and that in return allows air to be dumped back into the motor via that big valve at on the pass side of the back of the manifold? I unplugged the air hose after the BPV and no air pressure being forced by the smog pump.The flapper works. when it is hooked up to the air cleaner as soon as I remove the vacuum hose it poops open, if the hose remains on the flap remains closed. I was wondering the vacuum comes from the air cleaner itself. If so, does the A/CL BI MET under the air cleaner close vacuum at a certain temp allowing the flap to open? Could this be another of the reasons not enough air is present. The tech also checked the timing so changing it was not an option. Is this the Air BPV?

?

Heres the smog sheet:

 

[Mil1ion]

Did you inspect the EGR and clean/replace it?

79 was the year emissions hit us hard.
Unburnt fuel is sent back to the fuel tank and the fumes are recycled in conjunction with the unburnt fumes from the CC.
From what I can tell the engine isn't dealing with the complete emissions fuel delivery system.
How much air pump pressure is there ?

Do you need an illustration or diagram of the EGR and fuel vapour recovery system?
What is the carb ID number ?