Run-on starter.

[87-250]

Hi,
I'm new to this forum. I have a '87 250 with approx. 100k miles on the clock. I'm hoping someone can help me with this weird problem...
Twice now when we've turned the ign. to OFF the starter has started to spin but not attempt to engage. Have to run through OFF/ON cycle 6-7 times before everything comes to rest. I inially thought solenoid or starter but now it seems more reasonable for it to be the ign. switch. Checked archives last night and found nothing. Any ideas?
Thanks

 

[Brian_B]

I just wanted to welcome you to the forum.

I really do not know what you need to check, but I am sure that tomorrow (day time) somone will be able to assist you with your problem.

Only a few of us are night owls.

I know more about the older trucks than the newer ones.

 

[Lost]

Hey welcome. I'd bet your ignition switch is hanging up. But wait to see what other guys say.

 

[mtflat]

I see you made it over here. Welcome.

Have you had any luck with the sliding switch that's on top of the column - under the dash? I've had to replace that on the 88 I had. Easy fix, the long brass contacts get worn/bent/etc and eventually don't line up where they should.

Part of the deal includes a long connecting link to the key switch. Turning the key moves the con rod and pulls/pushes the sliding switch to the right spot. Kind of a hokey arrangment in my way of thinking, but at least R & R is easy.

 

[subford]

Hi,
I'm new to this forum. I have a '87 250 with approx. 100k miles on the clock. I'm hoping someone can help me with this weird problem...
Twice now when we've turned the ign. to OFF the starter has started to spin but not attempt to engage. Have to run through OFF/ON cycle 6-7 times before everything comes to rest. I inially thought solenoid or starter but now it seems more reasonable for it to be the ign. switch. Checked archives last night and found nothing. Any ideas?
Thanks

This does not make any sense.
Number one if the ignition switch were bad the starter would not only spin it would engage the ring gear and crank the engine. The only possibility here would be a bad clutch drive in the starter.
But if the clutch were out of starter the engine would not crank to start it in the first place.
If the solenoid was bad (welded closed) turning the key off and on would not free it.
The starter will not start running without power going to it. It can spin without turning the engine with a bad starter clutch drive.

 

[87-250]

Thanks for the welcomes. No, I haven't had time to go check that switch on top of the steering column yet. Maybe later today. Work related issues never seem to end. As to it doesn't make sense, that's exactly why I'm asking for help. I don't think it is the Bendix drive since there is absolutely no problem when i want to start the truck nor the solenoid for the same reason. I'm thinking that the ign. switch (or related part) is allowing juice to jump from the OFF position to ON but not enough for the starter to engage the Bendix drive. I like to get as many opinions as possible before I go ahead and strt fumbling around. So far mtflat seems to have experience with the problem and the cure!

 

[87-250]

Tim,

Just went out to look at the steering column. First time exploring under the dash. I removed the panel that covers the fuse panel, can see how to take off the right side adjacent to the steering column, and the two bolts that secure the steering column. But how do I remove the panel which has the wiper switch, headlights switch, and the fuel tank switch? (Another symtom is that the engine keeps cutting out. This occurred after a replace the belt for the air pump for the emissions system. Failed test by the way. I think the past owner messed with various adjustments in order to increase gas mileage. I'll look at that situation after I solve my original problem.)

 

[mtflat]

Those plastic panels usually have screws (sometimes pretty well hidden) that hold them in place. If you pull carefully you should be able to figure what's holding things.

Maybe we can get Vince up here from the professional auto section with more detail. If he doesn't show up, drop down a couple of forums and look him up.

I should have asked this before, but is your truck automatic or manual? That might make a big difference in how it comes apart. Mine have all been manual trans......

 

[87-250]

Tim,
It is a automatic. Like I said it is just the left hand section adjacent to the steering column I'm not sure about

Lawrence

 

[87-250]

Well I finally got around to re&re the electrical ign switch as Tom and others suggested. Problem solved! However, after driving 1 block from home engine died. A couple of gallons of gas and surprise... started right up. Next project is to investigate the sending units on both tanks to see why they like to surprise me with various readings over short periods of time. Thanks to all that responded.

Lawrence

 

[87-250]

Tom??? Who the heck is Tom?? I meant TIM. Thanks again.

 

[Fellro]

Sending units are typically one of two things. One is a float that has taken in gas, making it read empty all the time. The other way is a bad resistor that makes it read full all the time.

 

[blacksnapon]

I've always found with older trucks with an intermittent electronic issue, look for ground issues. Use a jumper wire from the suspect tanks pinch weld to a good ground, if it works, you've found the problem.

 

[Fellro]

I have to respectfully disagree with the "always" part of your statement Vince. Commonly, regularly, but not always. I have tested too many with an ohm meter to accept always, and had to replace many for that exact reason. The resistors and wiper arms wear out especially on the mid 80's trucks it seems.

 

[blacksnapon]

I have to respectfully disagree with the "always" part of your statement Vince. Commonly, regularly, but not always. I have tested too many with an ohm meter to accept always, and had to replace many for that exact reason. The resistors and wiper arms wear out especially on the mid 80's trucks it seems.

Yeah, I've replaced a bunch of sending units as well, but the difference here is "older trucks" with the possibility of losing the ground due to rust.

 

[87-250]

Thanks for the tips. I'll check the grounding situation as a matter of course. Lot easier than the other suggestion. My least favourite chore with vehicles is checking electrics.

Lawrence