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pitman arm

odogf150

YOUNG GUN
398
1
utah
okay im thinking about adding an additional 2 inches to my front end to level my truck just right.... but thing is i got an 4-6 inch drop pitman arm, would i really need to get a 6-8 inch drop pitman arm? and what about anchor pivot brackets or radius arm brackets? (my brackets are 6 inch)
 

primetime

sawmill slave
You have a couple of options. If your truck has a 6 in suspension lift, and you don`t want to go higher, why don`t you take out the rear block (with correspondingly shorter u-bolts of course). This will level the truck, and reduce the propensity to wheel hop.
If your current brackets are set up for 4 or 6 in, and you are running 4, I don`t see any problem dropping down to the 6 in holes and installing 2 in taller springs.
If you want to raise the front 2 inches on top of 6 to match the rear (for a total of 8), I would probably go with new (8 in) drop brackets and pitman arm.
Although personally, I would use Superlifts Superrunner steering system.
I hope this helps, and if I missed something, someone else will chime in.
 

odogf150

YOUNG GUN
398
1
utah
i thought about taking out the spacer block from the rear it would level it out okay enough but i think my coils are just worn from too much abuse. but i like the 2 inch up front just a little bit more. any thought if i could just add a 2 inch coil spacer or replace the seemingly sagging coils with 8 inchers( i do have heavy duty coils 8") and leave the brackets alone ( 6 inch droppers)? i would add the 8" pitman arm though
 
This is something for you to decide because you've got to look at it to decide.

The more inline the tie rod ends are with the "ball" the pitman arm drives... the
less bump steer you'll have. "TRE flip" they call it on FSB when they ream the
tapered hole for the tie rod ends in the steering knuckle arms from the top so
they can put the tie rod end higher and upside down (from the top).

It's not a real common tool, the taper is an odd one from what I've read.

Alvin in AZ
 

primetime

sawmill slave
Sure, you can add 8 in coils, your tires will cam out though. Which means if you were looking at the tires from the front of the truck, they would look like this \ /. This is fixed by adding the correct pivot brackets, or installing different bushings that hold the upper ball joints.
Without the pitman arm, it`ll be fine going down the road, but when you get into rougher stuff you`ll probably get bumpsteer.
 

odogf150

YOUNG GUN
398
1
utah
This is something for you to decide because you've got to look at it to decide.

The more inline the tie rod ends are with the "ball" the pitman arm drives... the
less bump steer you'll have. "TRE flip" they call it on FSB when they ream the
tapered hole for the tie rod ends in the steering knuckle arms from the top so
they can put the tie rod end higher and upside down (from the top).

It's not a real common tool, the taper is an odd one from what I've read.

Alvin in AZ

i actually put them in everything looks fine to me tires are straight no inward ******** whatsoever. they might actually be 7.5's but still set my suspension just right i dont think id do the tapered way maybe never even thought about it
 

odogf150

YOUNG GUN
398
1
utah
Sure, you can add 8 in coils, your tires will cam out though. Which means if you were looking at the tires from the front of the truck, they would look like this \ /. This is fixed by adding the correct pivot brackets, or installing different bushings that hold the upper ball joints.
Without the pitman arm, it`ll be fine going down the road, but when you get into rougher stuff you`ll probably get bumpsteer.

tires are fine i actually took the time today to look at them and their straight no play since idid my ball joints and front end
 

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