need some brake advice.

[Blue Bomber]

ive been fighting brake problems for the past couple of months. they kept locking up in the rear. i played with them to the point that they almost worked normal. yesterday i put new hardware in. all the springs and hardware that goes with 'em, the auto adjusters, and the cable for the adjusters. i didnt have time to adjust the brakes or bleed 'em. today, i drove it to work (about 10 miles), half way there the brakes start to really drag. i know it needs adjusting, the brake pedal has way too much travel.
my question is, where do i start? i also want to buy a rebuilt front brake caliper (the only thing left to get rebuilt other than the hard lines) ive had ALOT of brake trouble and could really use some help.........

 

[LEB Ben]

Well first off, the brake pedal travel is easy...you need to bleed the brakes. The rest, I guess I really don't have a good answer, you installed all the hardware, now it's time for a fine tune, like any and all brake jobs. Is there some particular answer you're looking for? Kinda hard to diagnose any problems when you already know the work hasn't been completed.

 

[Blue Bomber]

my question is, where do i start? :

just wanted to know where ya'll would start. after all the trouble ive been having any advice would help.

 

[TexasRho83]

After you replaced the hardware, you mentioned you didn't set the adjusters or bleed the lines right? That's a MUST. I wouldn't have even driven it 1 mile w/o doing that first.

The way I adjusted my rear brakes on my very first 70's model ford truck was set the shoes to wear they very lightly rub the drums. After bleeding the system, I slapped on the tires and made sure there was room to drive the truck forward and backwards. Started her up, drove forward a little ways, then hit the brake pedal firmly to stop. I then put her in reverse and drove a little ways and did the same thing. Rinse and repeat 3 or 4 more times. That let my auto adjusters do their thing.

I'm sure there's a better, more politically correct way (lol) to do it, but that worked well for me.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

I always set the rear adjusters up by gettin em close then drivin backwards fairly quick and stomp on the brake as hard as I can and that will usually do it.

 

[Blue Bomber]

well, my drums are warped, probably my rotors, too. i think i can get my rotors turned, but im gonna start looking for drums in the junkyard. ill adjust everything when i get some more parts.

P.S. thanks for the help everyone.

 

[bucks77ford]

Turning the rotors/drums usually is a must when re-doing the brakes. Also, it's a good way of telling if you need new ones or not. If it's been a long time since the brakes have been worked on, I usually replace the wheel cylinders also. But, if you already know your rotors/drums are warped, than you'll see a big difference when you get new or used ones and turn them.

 

[LEB Ben]

Turning the rotors/drums usually is a must when re-doing the brakes.

Really Buck? I never knew that, I've only ever had my drums turned once, and that's when one pad exploded and left a nice little groove. I normally swap drum brake at 80k and have good results.

 

[NOCO77]

New drums for 9 in. rears are really quite inexpensive - you might end up spending just as much by the time you find a serviceable set from a junkyard. You also didn't mention whether or not you changed the shoes, but they go on in a particular fashion - front/rear - they cannot be reversed or there will be problems. Also, locking rears can be an indication of rear diff. lube leaking out onto the shoes - check for any signs of that. This is all in addition to what has previously been mentioned, of course.

 

[bucks77ford]

Really Buck? I never knew that, I've only ever had my drums turned once, and that's when one pad exploded and left a nice little groove. I normally swap drum brake at 80k and have good results.

In many cases it usually involves the front rotors because it doesn't take much to warp. The rears don't need turned as often. But, I should also have said that if it looks as though the brake pads are wearing nice and even than they probably don't need to be turned. Also, it's not that expensive to get them turned and since you have everything torn down, just as well. I've seen many rotors and drums look really good until you get them on the lathe and there is some unevenness.

 

[LEB Ben]

Ahh ok...here again, only had the rotors turned once too. But good point, it's all torn down, so it surely won't hurt. Probably do it all the way around over break. Good tip.

 

[Blue Bomber]

You also didn't mention whether or not you changed the shoes, but they go on in a particular fashion - front/rear - they cannot be reversed or there will be problems.

whats the diffrence between the two. i have a set of new brake shoes but didnt want to put them on untill the brakes are working some-what normal.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Well ones called the primary and ones called the secondary (front and back in other words) I cant remember what the explanation was though. Also I just buy new drums and rotors just so they wont heat up as easily and warp again. Rotors are cheap and the drums for the 9 inch are fairly cheap as well.

 

[Mil1ion]

Notice the length of braking material on each shoe.

Things to be concerned about:

1) Vehicles sitting for long periods of time in a humid climate. Things rust up

2) Wheel cylinders that hang up, weak return springs Fatigued Brake Hardware and parts break

3) Caliper pistons that hang up (won't return to normal position)

4) Brake shows adjusted properly

5) Corrupt Brake fluid,.... Brake fluid is water soluable so its ends up rusting components

6) Warped drums and rotors

7) Emergency brake applied but the vale will not return thus leaving rear brakes applied, heating up and crumbling from enormous heat

 

[Blue Bomber]

ok, so the primary shoe has LESS braking material?

 

[Blue Bomber]

Things to be concerned about:

1) Vehicles sitting for long periods of time in a humid climate. Things rust up
-i dont think it wasnt sitting that long, but i do have some painting to do
2) Wheel cylinders that hang up, weak return springs Fatigued Brake Hardware and parts break
all the hardware in the rear brakes was replaced, new cylinders too
3) Caliper pistons that hang up (won't return to normal position)
ill look in to the front brakes this weekend to make sure everything is all good.
4) Brake shows adjusted properly
i havent adjusted anything yet
5) Corrupt Brake fluid,.... Brake fluid is water soluable so its ends up rusting components
i plan on a full flush this weekend
6) Warped drums and rotors
i think this may be my problem, or atleast part of it
7) Emergency brake applied but the vale will not return thus leaving rear brakes applied, heating up and crumbling from enormous heat
my e-brake does let go, i check for that when i had the drums apart

Thank you for all the help. i really need it. i wrote all this down so i can check this weekend when i get to it. ill post back what i find.