My rebuild thread w/ lots of pictures

[TexasNomad]

Why did you choose to go with Stock headers?

 

[MikeWire]

Why did you choose to go with Stock headers?

Couple of reasons: I've poured enough into the motor already - almost every part is new, and that has gotten expensive. I've had a hard time finding headers for the 4x4, and the ones I have found are pretty pricey. And, the entire exhaust really needs to be replaced anyway, so that will come all together. For now all I need it to do is run.

 

[TexasNomad]

Sweet..... i've looked at this post dozen of times I just don't get tired of looking at engine builds some day I might get to build my own thanks for the post man

 

[MikeWire]

more updates

Hey guys - made more progress today and got it running! Although, no video today - it was getting too dark.

Here are a few pictures:

Painted the inspection plate:

Reman clutch:

Getting it on the picker:

Here's a shot of my shelf with some of the things I use in my truck and in my other cars:

I decided to paint the motor side of the clutch linkage. I got new bushings from JBG (I just painted over the old ones instead of masking them off):

It's now on the lift and supported by only the chain:

New clutch and resurfaced flywheel installed:

Here is a shot of the clutch and the linkages I cleaned up, greased and got ready for install:

I also replaced the rubber boot on the clutch linkage and the throwout lever:

It's up in the air:

It took a while because i was doing it myself with no help:

It's in -> continued below:

 

[MikeWire]

and more:

Installed coolant hoses:

Radiator and front clip - no AC so the cooler is coming out:

It's back on:

Rep points who can see my little error: (hint: its not the PS)

Nasty starter:

New starter - this took forever to get going. Turns out this starter was bad and it was binding on the flywheel! After a couple of trips back and forth to the local Napa, who are extremely helpful, we ended up replacing it with another and it was fine.

Oil additive for break-in:

That's it for now - more when it is light outside!

 

[TexasNomad]

So are you planning a to do any thing to truck drive train or body? it looks pretty solid from the pics, just wondering..

 

[MikeWire]

The body is in pretty good shape - just some surface rust, but nothing over the fenders or in the cab corners typical to the 73-79 F-series. I picked this one over others because I could work on the mechanical things, but I don't know anything about bodywork. I need to install new seats - looking for bucket/bench type in grey or black, maybe carpet but probably the rubber liner, and a new steering wheel. I also need a set of front leaf springs, because the drivers side sags really badly. But the main goal is to get it hauling things to the dump and anything that needs to be picked up that won't fit in any of our other cars.

 

[TexasNomad]

Well from the looks of things you have done this before great build =)

 

[F 150Cobra]

woot .. nice where did you get that color? of the engine block?

 

[MikeWire]

No this is my first rebuild. I just researched a ton, and with a little luck and patience so far have pulled it off. I am and always will be a noob because there is always something to learn.

The blue is Old Ford Blue engine enamel. The red is Ford Red. I did learn tho that even tho the temp says it will go to 500 degrees, it will burn off the headers anyway - smoked for 30 minutes until it burned off. I *thought that may happen, but I have used it on 2 stroke cycles with no problem...guess a 360 gets a little hot huh. So, my nice red headers are now brown again and even some of the blue on the heads has turned blackish as well. Note to others rebuilding, pick a higher temp paint than I did.

Thanks for everyone's comments and following along. I have a couple of other issues I need to fix as well, so I will keep posting here and in the Gen 6 forum.

 

[89frankenford]

wow everytime i look at these pictures they just keep getting better! great job so far!

 

[O'Rattlecan]

Have any trouble mounting it? It looks fantastic!

Ryan

 

[TexasNomad]

well my birth day is coming up soon i'll PM you my mailing addy i'd like it with a big blue bow on top

 

[MikeWire]

Thanks guys for all the + comments! A little update:

I have it running pretty well, but I seem to be having a cooling issue. My original radiator was rotted out (took it in for a recore) so I had to buy a new one, and installed it last night, So here's what happening - I am getting a lot of pressure build up and overheating...so much that it is steaming out of the overflow tube and the temp is pegged. With the cap off, coolant level goes up and down up and down then bubbles out of the top. So I shut it down and release most of the pressure. It didn't blow the 13lb cap, but it really let loose when I gave it a half turn.

Trying to set the timing, but I cant seem to find any numbers in my Haynes, so I had set it to about 20 degrees.

So, I'm at a loss here - did I maybe get the thermo in backwards? I didn't think so, but I have never installed one in reverse before...I usually get it right...any ideas guys?

FYI - every part in the cooling system is new. I have a shroud on my radiator, and I am running 50/50 coolant/distilled water.

Oh, and yes I did bleed as much air out as I could before this happened. I had the cap off for a good 20 mins with it running, while it bubbled and burped.

Edit for more detail.

 

[MikeWire]

Ya I had two things going on. One was that I had the thermo in backwards...duh. The second was that the thermo was bad - I boiled it and it never opened. So I picked up the premium version and popped it in the right way and no more overheat - runs like a champ. Now, I am rebuilding the carburetor and we should be good to go.

 

[TexasNomad]

Cool man keep up updated

 

[eco]

Thanks guys for all the + comments! A little update:

I have it running pretty well, but I seem to be having a cooling issue. My original radiator was rotted out (took it in for a recore) so I had to buy a new one, and installed it last night, So here's what happening - I am getting a lot of pressure build up and overheating...so much that it is steaming out of the overflow tube and the temp is pegged. With the cap off, coolant level goes up and down up and down then bubbles out of the top. So I shut it down and release most of the pressure. It didn't blow the 13lb cap, but it really let loose when I gave it a half turn.

Trying to set the timing, but I cant seem to find any numbers in my Haynes, so I had set it to about 20 degrees.

So, I'm at a loss here - did I maybe get the thermo in backwards? I didn't think so, but I have never installed one in reverse before...I usually get it right...any ideas guys?

FYI - every part in the cooling system is new. I have a shroud on my radiator, and I am running 50/50 coolant/distilled water.

Oh, and yes I did bleed as much air out as I could before this happened. I had the cap off for a good 20 mins with it running, while it bubbled and burped.

Edit for more detail.

When you put in a new motor you should fill the motor with coolant through the t-stat hole prior to installing the t-stat and t-stat housing, that way the motor is FULL of coolant......no air. Then install the t-stat and it's housing. Then fill the radiator. If you do it this way there will be no bubbles (or VERY little) to get out. If you don't do this there will be no coolant circulation through the bypass during warm up (thats bad) and once the t-stat opens (which will no doubt be very late since there is no coolant around it) there will be a ruch of coolant and lots of bubbles and air pockets.

How did you go about purging the coolant system prior to start up, or did you not purge at all?

 

[eco]

Trying to set the timing, but I cant seem to find any numbers in my Haynes, so I had set it to about 20 degrees.

What kind of advance set up do you have? Vacuum? Counter weights with springs? Computerized? Not only do you need to think about the base timing, but you also need to set up (properly) the total timing and the timing curve. Basically, you need to look at how the advance corresponds with RPM.

If this is stock type streetable motor (as opposed to a race motor) running on regular pump gas then figure a base timing of not much more than 15. With 91 octane you should be able to get away with closer to 20 - this is all assuming that you do not have a computer controlled timing advance.

 

[MikeWire]

So I have more to add. I was in the process of cleaning and rebuilding my 2bbl carb, but was given a Holley 4160 4bbl carb, so I am now looking for an intake to match. The 4160 will need a rebuild, and I need to swap the intake out when it gets warm but it should run great after.

I solved my coolant issue by reversing the t-stat...I had it backwards. And I also ended up getting a new radiator as well.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

 

[1977 EXPLORER]

Good looking motor