muddy coolent

[Jakes40]

I tried to do a search on this but it got me more confused.
My wife took my truck out today to fill it up before a trip and it was not blowing heat. I checked the coolant and the degas bottle was empty with a muddy muck in the bottom. loosened the top hose and it looked like mud I have not seen any white smoke out the tailpipe.

I was thinking it's the EGR cooler or the oil cooler (but the coolant was low) and i'm currently looking at a EGR delete kit. Is this the first step what is the likelihood it could be the head gaskets?

part 2 what EGR delete are you guys running? and should/ do I need an oil cooler ?

Thank you in advance
Chris

 

[smokey]

When you say mud was it the consistency of a milk shake?

 

[Jakes40]

yes' like an expensive milk shake.

 

[Blue Goose]

My initial thought is going to be an oil cooler. How many miles do you have on your truck?

 

[blacksnapon]

Yeah, my vote is for an egr/oil cooler combo. The egr cooler failures are caused by the oil cooler. Thats probably where your coolant went also.

 

[Beachbumcook]

First bit of advice I have for you is to skip the EGR delete kit until you get your truck working (some techs do not like working on modified trucks and it makes it harder for them to work on them if they are).

I would install a coolant filter (dieselsite.com) is popular brand that is widely used and a great by-pass coolant filter once your "your more serious problems" are addressed and fixed.

The www.dieselsite.com coolant filter (check out their website for photos... which are mine that I sent them years back after cutting open my first filter)... are worth a million words and why EGR coolers plug up and go bad (due to the sand left in the block and coolant when the motor was made).

When things go bad, coolant can't flow and heat builds up and things bad... and pressure must give.... so oil and coolant may have mixed and coolant may have been lost somewhere in the system or out a weak spot?

BTW... when I added my dieselsite.com coolant filter at 50,000 - 60,000 miles (can't remember)... I had sediment and black gunk in the bottom of the degas bottle... but never loss any coolant.

Good luck,

 

[Jakes40]

Blue Goose, the truck has 77,000 miles on it the egr cooler was replaced at 30,000 under warranty.
Beachbumcook, I was looking at installing a coolant filter before this happened so that is in the future ( if i keep the truck) my wife just lost her job so that was why I'm looking at the delete kit to save on cost. I'm very mechanically inclined so I will be doing the work myself.

thank you for all the help
Chris

 

[d-kuzmen]

If your coolant is like a milkshake the oil cooler has failed. I would recomend replacing the egr and oil coolers.

 

[Jakes40]

1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or until water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.

Question: I'm wondering if I should flush or partly flush the coolant system before changing the oil cooler then do a full flush after or wait till after and do the full flush?

Chris

 

[blacksnapon]

I'd flush it before and after. Before to get rid of sand, after with simple green/dish soap/grease cutter of some kind to get the oil residue out of the coolant system.

 

[Beachbumcook]

I'd flush it before and after. Before to get rid of sand, after with simple green/dish soap/grease cutter of some kind to get the oil residue out of the coolant system.

From what I have read and learned... Simple Green is OK, but dish soap is not.... why.... too many bubbles.... and you will never get them out of your system.

Use a degreaser/cleaner that is non-foaming or bubbling.... you will be an old man before you get all the soap and bubbles out of the cooling system... and if you do not, you will have air pockets (inside the bubbles - duh) which will cause inadequate protection!!!

I am not a Ford certified mechanic, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn last night.

 

[6L PWR]

Corrected:

I am not a Ford certified mechanic, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn EXPRESS last night.

 

[Jakes40]

I planed on using purple power. it does have a little foam at first. that's what other forums and the ford FSB said to use. but I can't say it works great might try the simple green see if it works better.

side note Anyone have the international part no. for the big turbo V-Clamp I have the Ford part NO. 3C3Z-9T514-A. Just shoping around.

Chris

 

[Beachbumcook]

Do not have the Int'l part number.

Here is a Ford dealer that has great pricing on their Ford parts (on-line and if you call). Tell them you have seen them on some of the internet boards as I think they offer a discount (just can't remember which site they sponsor).

I have printed off their pricing and had my local Ford dealer match their price... as it is an "apple to apples" comparison... of one Ford dealer to another.

http://www.tousleyfordparts.com/

When I looked up the part number you referenced above, the price was $40.27/ea.

At least you will get a Ford warrenty for this part when buying from a Ford dealer.

 

[Jakes40]

I re read the Ford FSB on contaminated coolant flush so I'll be buying some simple green.

Follow the steps in sequence to effectively repair
the vehicle:
• Drain cooling system contaminates.
• Clean cooling system with Simple Green Heavy
Duty Cleaner and Degreaser.
• Clean cooling system with Motorcraft Engine
Cooling System Iron Cleaner.

Thanks Beachbumcook my dealer wants $70.00 for it found the same price at WWW.PARTSGUYED.COM

Chris

 

[Beachbumcook]

I re read the Ford FSB on contaminated coolant flush so I'll be buying some simple green.


Thanks Beachbumcook my dealer wants $70.00 for it found the same price at WWW.PARTSGUYED.COM

Chris

Your welcome... good luck.