Manual Brakes

[G.O. Stang]

29.875 in. Almost a 30 inch tire basically.

 

[G.O. Stang]

So I bled the brakes again and made sure there was no air in the system. Still have a spongy pedal that won't stop moving until it hits the floor.

 

[sgarver]

If the master cylinder had previously had fluid in it and it was allowed to go dry, I would say that your problem is the master cylinder. The fact that the pedal slowly goes to the floor and you don't have a leak any where also screams master cylinder. If it was just air in the system, it would feel spongy but it would never go to the floor. It sounds like the O rings on the master cylinder piston have dried out and as your pushing the pedal, it is allowing fluid to go past the O rings which is why the pedal is going to the floor. You won't see that leak because the fluid is just returning to the reservoir.

 

[G.O. Stang]

Well I assumed as much. Went and ordered the power brake booster/master cylinder combo and am going to convert to power brakes. Figured I'd kill two birds with one stone.

 

[BuzzGun79]

Just thought ide mention it G.O. Does your New out fit come with the brake pedal rod ? Your exiting manual brake pedal rod will be to short....

 

[G.O. Stang]

Just thought ide mention it G.O. Does your New out fit come with the brake pedal rod ? Your exiting manual brake pedal rod will be to short....

I got the booster/master cylinder from o'reilly's. the piston rod is installed and came if it if that's what you mean. I am aware that the pedal assemblies are different. Also that I need to acquire the brackets for the booster. I'm going to try to make the pedal assembly I have work, and if not, will order the correct one later on.

I guess it would be helpful if someone could provide me a list of parts I need. The booster and master combo I bought was for a 1974 according to o'reilly's. I need to know which bracket I need. To my understanding there kind of a bellcrank setup to it? It's confusing with all the differences in parts in these trucks.

 

[BuzzGun79]

If i remember correctly G.O. when i did my 76 bumble bee...I used the kickout bracket from the fire wall to the back of the booster and the Piston rod..I aquired mine from a doner truck that my neighbor and i went in on and i believe it was a 79 1/2 ton 4x4.Now its been some time ago so details are kind of sketchy mind you but im pretty sure it all bolted up..I do know it didnt take a great deal of time to do and no unforseen issues...It made a Huge difference...first time i hit that pedal i about went through the windshiled..seriously!

This is a pic of my 79's setup..keep in mind tho it is an F-250! it may give you an idea of the setup

 

[G.O. Stang]

Thanks for the pics. I found a guy selling the bracket on Craigslist. Got it home today and bolted on my new master/booster combo. Then bolted that to the firewall and hooked everything back up. I bench bled the booster and then bled the brakes. Took it for a drive and WOW. Not only do they work now, but talk about some stopping power haha. Much better. Working great. The brake light switch didn't touch anymore so I took a screw and put it into the end of the switch and now it's working fine. Honestly, it was a pretty cheap upgrade that both fixed and bettered the brakes.

 

[sgarver]

If you find the right pedal assembly, It will actually bring the pedal higher off the floor. Thankfully my donor was just outside my garage when I found out they were different. Glad to hear you got it not only fixed but improved.

 

[Workin' Rig]

As far as crusin ratio i had a 79 F150 (thats what badges said anyway...i think it was acually a 100 but anyways...) It had 2.96 gears or somewhere thereabouts with a 351w and a C6. It cruised very nicely at 60 and returned around 16mpg