HELP! Truck wont start....

[Workin' Rig]

77 F250 400...

Yesterday after coming home from camping i noticed the truckcranked slow (i didnt think much of it thought maybe the camper drew the battery down while it was siting there), but now today it wont start.

It acts like the battery is dead but none of the lights are dim or anything, the Solenoid is clicking, and i got it to turn a little, when the truck was running the gauge showed a charge.....but theres a funny noise coming from this....

It makes a noise like a turn signal when i shut the key off....is this some sort of relay??? Would it cause the problems im having?? What the hell is it even??? Its located on passenger side....

Any help is appreciated.

 

[DNFXDLI]

If you try to start it with the headlights on, do they go right dim?

 

[Jolly Green]

It's possible to have enought charge to run lights but not enought to crank the motor over.

 

[BuzzGun79]

It sounds like starter drag to me,it is drawing more power than what it should.to test this,turn on the headlights and attempt to start it,if they go dim,it is the starter...

 

[Workin' Rig]

Ok...I put in a different battery and it fired right up...problem solved right?

WRONG....

I drive to the grocery store and go to start it and it wont start, shut key off, fasten belts light and buzzer is going, i pop the hood and the engine is trying to crank (slowly) and the postive cable is HOT, so i unhook everything and run into the store...

Come back out about 1/2hr later and reinstall pos cable, i hear the fasten belts buzzer/light going off without the key even in the ignition, but the engine is not trying to crank, i climb in truck and hit key and it fires right up...i drive home...i did not try to start it when i got home for fear of fire or something else, so i unhooked the cable till i figure out what to chase...

Im thinking maybe key switch? I know its gotta be something stupid....

 

[BuzzGun79]

Does the cable give an arc(spark) when hooking it up? if it does you got a short somewhere,possibly in the igniton switch....just so you are aware sometimes a starter will work cold...then fail or crank slow after the engine is warm.excessive starter draw will heat up the cable also...this happened to my 79 while i was workin out the bugs replaced the starter all was fine after.

 

[Mil1ion]

Get yourself a remote starter switch for $5 and try that to see if the issue is resolved with the key in the OFF position ..then the ON (RUN) position.
The connectors of the remote go to the Battery side of the relay and the I terminal of the relay.

Also inspect the Battery cable underneath the insulation at the ends for corrosion

Always diagnose electrical problem with a GUARANTEED good battery

 

[Workin' Rig]

Im sure the battery is good because it cranked over the boat motor fine and its not even 2 yrs old....

I could buy the starter but why would it cause the engine to crank with the key in the off postion?

 

[BuzzGun79]

sometimes corrosion as Dennis stated will yield those results also,give those cables/connections a good look over first as he suggested,you dont want to buy a starter if you do not need to

 

[Workin' Rig]

I will check those for sure....could it be the solenoid? The starter still looks pretty new, but the Solenoid looks original....

 

[DNFXDLI]

Sounds like corrosion within the cables or connectors...check those first before guessing at what may or may not need replacing.

 

[Workin' Rig]

Thanks for the help guys...im gunna check further into it tomorrow...

 

[Jolly Green]

Sounds like corrosion within the cables or connectors...check those first before guessing at what may or may not need replacing.

Yeah, if there are crystals growing on your terminals or connectors so that it looks like a science experiment, then there's your problem.

If that's the case: Clean with a water/baking soda solution and scrape with a pocket knife until they're shiny.

 

[Workin' Rig]

Thats whats got me stumped tho is the connecters all look pretty clean....

 

[bucks77ford]

Thats whats got me stumped tho is the connecters all look pretty clean....

I have had cables that look fine, but after replacing them with new, problem solved. Not to say that is your problem, but cables are pretty cheap and with knowing that you have no issues with cables and as Dennis said no issues with battery, than at least you have eliminated a major component and can go from there.

 

[Mil1ion]

The corrosion happens in the wire itself UNDER thee protective coating..especially on cables with aftermarket battery clamps.

BTW, There is a difference between Won't start and Won't crank.

Please be specific in your questions

There is a special sequence in trouble shooting,one MUST always do it in a specific order when working on wiring of any kind.

Again, Buy a $5 remote switch to allow you to bypass certain parts

1) Make sure battery is in great working order
2) with the use of a remote start switch you bypass the ignition key

if it cranks with remote switch, the next thing is to

3) Check the Neutral start switch for correct alignment

if it didn't crank using the remote the issue is with a battery cable, Starter Relay or starter
Check the power to the start cable with a light or Multi-meter when you push the remote switch to see of any current is there

You must always remember the amount of electrical current for the starter is Massive. it is the amperage that kicks the starter over.

Get back here with the result of the tests I mentioned.

If an starter cranks with the key in run or off then the issue is the starter relay.

Replace it with a Motorcraft or STANDARD brand relay

 

[me thumper]

yea what he said!
process of elemination!

 

[DNFXDLI]

it is the amperage that kicks the starter over.

Watch your wording ...the voltage potential is what turns the starter over, the current drawn is a result of the voltage and resistance

 

[m78]

Search Google for "voltage drop testing". It's an easy way to test all the wires and connections.
This seems to be a common problem on boats where the moisture gets into the coatings on the battery cables.

 

[Workin' Rig]

Ok...got it figured out ( i think)....

Moral of the story...never trust a 35yr old Ampmeter.....

I drove it to mcdonalds and it wouldnt start, (crank, sorry ), ol lady came down and jumped me with the escape, it fired right up....pulled off Alternator and had it tested, sure enough it was fried, i changed it out today and battery is on charger...so ill know tomorrow....

Kinda embarassed not gonna lie