Having starting issues.. Is this the right starter? Please help

[tjcustomranger]

Having starting issues was goin to switch out the starter but not sure if thats really an automatic starter. Are they the same just different style do to the brand difference? The old one is auto lite the author not sure about but the prt number is 3131 an its at autozone

 

[tjcustomranger]

Forgot to upload this

 

[jebadiah04]

The one on the right is just sub standard to the left one is my thought here. Should work tho

Sent from my mudwhistle via Lemmiwinks.

 

[Fellro]

The mounting is the same, and ribbing is no indication of application. Looking at multiple sources, that is the right part number, and there is no difference between auto and manual. As far as function goes, it is correct. Be sure to check your cables and grounds, my old 75 was a bear sometimes to crank due to cable troubles. I had the sticky solenoid issues as well.

 

[m78]

There was a thread here where someone was having issues with a starter. It wasn't reaching the flywheel correctly.

 

[79460f100]

There was a thread here where someone was having issues with a starter. It wasn't reaching the flywheel correctly.

I have never known of the FE engines having that problem but anything is possible . There can be a problem with the 302 and other engines of that design , because the standard trany engines use a little shorter starter. If you put it with an automatic trany it may not mesh with the flexplate teeth. If you use the one for a auto trany with a standard it may jam up because it is longer by about 3/8".

 

[Wbruiser2]

It might help if you described the symptoms of the issue... clicking, grinding, nothing happens, etc...

 

[tjcustomranger]

Something is wrong that might be in the battery. Had no issues whatsoever until I had a day with hot starting problems that was just a fuel issue boiling or something. Still ran fine and started if I he'll throttle or pumped it. Then all of a sudden Sunday the truck cranked once and clicked. Three jumpers on instant start. Drove it for 20 minutes shut it off it started to click. Jumped it because that seemed to work fine. Drive it another 10 or 15 minutes shut it off it started right back up. Then shut it off for like 2 minutes turned over once then clicked. Yesterday I took it down on some county road for a bit stopped to ask my grands to set her cruise control so I could check my speedometer and it didn't even make a noise and cranked over really slow. Took 20 minutes to get it started with jumpers. But the battery held a charge for hours after that drove it home and again a slow crank then clicking. The positive cable was warm the starter was ridiculously hot. And when the truck sat and cooled it would crank a few times slow way down and click...
Idk if its the starter or the battery solenoid is new and threw in that other starter last night will be home later to try it out

 

[john112deere]

Take the battery to the parts store and get it checked. Sounds like it's failed to me. Most places will do it for free.

(Alternate "quick-and-dirty" check- hold a volt-meter across the battery while somebody cranks it. It should be around 12.5 volts, and hold close to 12 volts for several seconds of cranking. If it dives down to ~7-8 volts almost immediately, it fails. If a battery failed this test, I'd haul it into town and have it checked at the store.)

 

[dustybumpers]

Check the timing on your truck as well, advanced timing cranks a starter hard when the engine is warmed up, normal when cooled off

 

[Mil1ion]

Starters are different in several applications.
Go by the book when buying parts.
I have several pats application books I need be or look on the rock auto site to Ross to Ford #

 

[tjcustomranger]

my timing is at 8 it could be bumped up a few. the new starter cranked it but kept spinng for a bit after you stopped cranking it. threw the old one back in.
it has to be the battery thats goofed up. sometimes it holds a charge sometimes it doesn't. i'll see about adding some acid to it and charging it up for an hour or so and see what happens.
if that doesn't help i'll go buy one asap.

 

[Fellro]

Rock auto also only listed one starter with no attention to application. They also validated the 3131 number from other sources. Autozone's part numbers are not exclusive, they are actually pretty common across other names.

 

[5.0Flareside]

my timing is at 8 it could be bumped up a few. the new starter cranked it but kept spinng for a bit after you stopped cranking it. threw the old one back in.
it has to be the battery thats goofed up. sometimes it holds a charge sometimes it doesn't. i'll see about adding some acid to it and charging it up for an hour or so and see what happens.
if that doesn't help i'll go buy one asap.

No don't add anything to the battery!!!!!

Most batteries are sealed anymore!

Take it somewhere that can test it..

If its bad its bad.. Just replace it..


Smokin' Tires with my 5.0 on Tapatalk

 

[dustybumpers]

it has to be the battery thats goofed up. sometimes it holds a charge sometimes it doesn't. i'll see about adding some acid to it and charging it up for an hour or so and see what happens.
if that doesn't help i'll go buy one asap.

NO!!! it could blow up in your face!!!

The way a battery goes bad, the led plates inside are constantly being eaten by the acid.
As the acid is eaten, it becomes a powder, which falls to the bottom of the plate. Eventually, the bottom of the plates bump together, creating a short, and this is why your battery is no longer working properly.

The acid never losses it's strength, it just boils away as part of the process. You add distilled water to bring the level back up, which restores the proper strength of the acid

By adding more acid, you change the balance.
Changing the balance with the short inside will create more hydrogen as the process works, causing the short in the battery to blow it up in your face.

Have the battery tested properly, as it is, and if it's bad replace it

 

[fatherdoug]

NO!!! it could blow up in your face!!!

The way a battery goes bad, the led plates inside are constantly being eaten by the acid.
As the acid is eaten, it becomes a powder, which falls to the bottom of the plate. Eventually, the bottom of the plates bump together, creating a short, and this is why your battery is no longer working properly.

The acid never losses it's strength, it just boils away as part of the process. You add distilled water to bring the level back up, which restores the proper strength of the acid

By adding more acid, you change the balance.
Changing the balance with the short inside will create more hydrogen as the process works, causing the short in the battery to blow it up in your face.

Have the battery tested properly, as it is, and if it's bad replace it

^^^ good advice.

Keyword is "Distilled Water". Not tap water, not demineralized or deionized water, but distilled water.

 

[tjcustomranger]

We used to do it to all the batteries I don't have enough for a new one right now have some other stuff I have to do.

 

[5.0Flareside]

you may have added water to them.. but not acid..

your begging for it to explode on you..

 

[tjcustomranger]

no, it was striaght battery acid we have a 5 gallon bag of it.
i won't mess with the battery i will just get a new one when i can. need to sell my dirt bike or something and go buy a few things

 

[Mil1ion]

Battery acid is ONLY TO BE USED WITH A NEW EMPTY BATTERY.

5 gallons is for a place that sells new empty batteries.

What happens to batteries that sit w/o being used....... they Sulfate.