Front end, what do I need

[LEB Ben]

Hey fellas...I popped an axle shaft u-joint last night, in the Bronco, and was just trying to get a parts list together to get as much done as possible as long as I'm in that far. U-joint, seals, bearings, ball joints.



Newbie question...once I tear away all the outer stuff, what needs to actually be done to pull the shaft itself? I've never gone that far in before. Thanks.

 

[ford141]

Take your rotor off, then unbolt the spindle from the steering knuckle. Then you can pull the shaft straight out through the hole in the steering knuckle. You don't have to remove the knuckle from the ball joints.

As far as other parts, as long as everything is tight, put a new u-joint in it, clean and repack the wheel bearings, and replace the wheel seal. Other than that you should be good.

Tip: When reinstalling the axle shaft, make sure you don't damage the axle seal. The seal is located inside the axle tube right next to the diff. You have to remove the differential carrier to replace it.

 

[LEB Ben]

Alright thanks. I wasn't real sure how the shaft was secured. And your explanation sounds alot easier than I was anticipating.

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Yeah its easy stuff to do just takes awhile. Id suggest pullin the other side down as well so it dont go and ya have to do it twice.

 

[LEB Ben]

Thanks for the reassurance Dan...and yeah, I figured I'd tackle as much as I could on te front end while I'm working on it.


Next question...the Bronco is parked at the gf's house about a mile away from my house...the u-joint is just kinda arbitrarily wedged, can I limp this home?

 

[1985 Ford F-150]

Unlock the hubs and put the transfer case in 2 hi and youll be fine if the wheels roll.

 

[ford141]

Like he said you should be fine, as long as the u-joint isn't "wedged" so bad that it binds up the steering...

 

[LEB Ben]

Thanks fellas.


So for the time being, I'm thinking u-joints both sides, upper and lower ball joints both sides...and possibly new bearings boths sides...but the bearings are pressed on?????

 

[UNRULEE]

Make sure to inspect the roller bearing for the outer stub axle that is located inside the base of the sprindle. If it's OK, just add some grease to it.

 

[78F250SCCS]

You will also need the special socket to remove the ring nuts from the inner hub. The outer bearing will just fall out, and the inner bearing is held in by the seal if I remember correctly. You might want to think about changing the bearing race as well. The outer ring nut will be tight then there will be a locking washer and the inner ring nut should be not as tight. not to sure on the tourque specs.

 

[fatherdoug]

Ben, go Timken bearings and races for the reason shown below



Got Timken bearings from JBG but the races were "Made in *****" . The spindle bearings were a real pain to get out. I finally used a socket slighly less than the size of the insert to "push" the bearing out.

 

[Mil1ion]

Always mark your mating parts

I know that sounds sexual..but there is no othe rway to say it

 

[fatherdoug]

Mine aren't marked, but I have a pretty good idea where they go.

 

[LEB Ben]

Thanks for the info fellas.

 

[LEB Ben]

Is there any particular reason why I'd need a ball joint press with the 'u-joint adapter'? I've had a couple folks tell me I'd need one.

 

[smokey]

A press makes it a whole lot easier to get them out. It can be done with out one.

 

[fatherdoug]

A press makes it a whole lot easier to get them out. It can be done with out one.

Yes, I've done it without. Once again a smaller size socket can be used to get the caps out.

 

[LEB Ben]

Alright...that's what I thought...I just usually use the BFH technique, maybe with a block of wood or piece of brass or something.

 

[Mil1ion]

The press is to AVOID the BFH trick.

 

[LEB Ben]

I know...but the BFH normally accomplishes what I need. If not...it's just a $15 joint (Spicer non-greasable), then I'll lay down the cash for a press.