finally got my truck

[BKW]

And Bill, the new switch I got looks just like the one he pulled and left inside the cab of my truck.

It's an in-correct TSS for your truck. C9TZ-13341-C does not fit a 1969 F100/350 from serial number G30,001, does not fit a 1970/72 F100/350.

It may look similar, but it is NOT correct!

btw: Genuine Ford TSS's have a paper ID tag looped over the wires with a number printed on it. The C9TZ13341C switch would be marked: C9TA-13341-A

I suspect from the applications that this TSS is aftermarket. Ford TSS's never included applications, and certainly wouldn't have said 1969/72 when it only fits 1969's before serial number G30,001.

 

[wareagle]

It's an in-correct TSS for your truck. C9TZ-13341-C does not fit a 1969 F100/350 from serial number G30,001, does not fit a 1970/72 F100/350.

It may look similar, but it is NOT correct!

btw: Genuine Ford TSS's have a paper ID tag looped over the wires with a number printed on it. The C9TZ13341C switch would be marked: C9TA-13341-A

I suspect from the applications that this TSS is aftermarket. Ford TSS's never included applications, and certainly wouldn't have said 1969/72 when it only fits 1969's before serial number G30,001.

This was ordered from C & G Early Ford Parts in Escondido, CA.
I will give them a call and ask for the part# you mentioned earlier...

In the meantime, I have no blinker.

 

[wareagle]

on the phone with C&G right now...

 

[BKW]

This was ordered from C & G Early Ford Parts in Escondido, CA.
I will give them a call and ask for the part# you mentioned earlier...
No blinkers? Use hand signals...people have been doing this since 1897.

What did you pay for it? IMO, ask them if it can be returned for credit, then order the correct Gen-U-ine Ford switch from PARTSGUYED.COM.

If C&G is selling this C9TZ-C switch that they claim fits 1969/72, they prolly won't have the correct DOTZ-B switch.

 

[wareagle]

he swears up and down that it is the correct switch... Of course, either way, I have no clue how to install this switch and would welcome some detailed suggestions...

 

[BKW]

he swears up and down that it is the correct switch... Of course, either way, I have no clue how to install this switch and would welcome some detailed suggestions...

The MORON has no clue...what-so-ever. I would assume that you already figured that out.

Who the heck do you think knows the correct applications for the C9TZ13341C TSS?

An ignorant MORON or someone that has the Ford truck parts catalogs and was a Ford partsman for 35 years?

Would you trust that MORON after all you've been thru?

C9TZ13341C DOES NOT FIT ANYTHING FROM 1969 SERIAL NUMBER G30,001...PERIOD!

 

[wareagle]

Bill, I would trust you to give me the part# for a cotter pin on "enter vehicle make/model here"

 

[Mil1ion]

Is this where I ask if the consecutive build number is known ?

 

[BKW]

Is this where I ask if the consecutive build number is known ?

What difference would that make for the OP's 1970? Before/from serial number G30,001 only applies to 1969.

I was thinking of calling C&G to ask if this supposed C9TZ-13341-C TSS is in fact a "gypo fitz-all" which I believe it is-based on the so-called applications.

But...decided this is the OP's responsibility.

 

[Mil1ion]

Wareagle

Show the guy this

 

[wareagle]

What difference would that make for the OP's 1970? Before/from serial number G30,001 only applies to 1969.

I was thinking of calling C&G to ask if this supposed C9TZ-13341-C TSS is in fact a "gypo fitz-all" which I believe it is-based on the so-called applications.

But...decided this is the OP's responsibility.

Have already called C&G and they swear up and down that this is the correct part for my truck. Actually mentioned to him the part# you gave me Bill and told him that a former Ford Parts employee with a crap ton of years experience told me that C9TZ-13341-C is the incorrect part.

 

[wareagle]

Wareagle

Show the guy this

Wish I could, but the guy is in California...

 

[BKW]

Have already called C&G and they swear up and down that this is the correct part for my truck. Actually mentioned to him the part# you gave me Bill and told him that a former Ford Parts employee with a crap ton of years experience told me that C9TZ-13341-C is the incorrect part.

I just called C&G (760-740-2400)...and they said this is a "universal fitz-all" TSS. It is not genuine Ford.

According to C&G, it fits 1965/72.

Edit: IMO, that might be the case, but...it will not fit 1965 F100/250 4WD or 1966 F250 4WD...as those switches are entirely different.

 

[wareagle]

I just called C&G (760-740-2400)...and they said this is a "universal fitz-all" TSS. It is not genuine Ford.

According to C&G, it fits all 1965/72's.

That is exactly what they told me...

 

[BKW]

See edited info above.

 

[wareagle]

See edited info above.

So, do you see a problem with installing the switch they sent me? If so, are there any good play by play articles on how to replace it?

 

[Mil1ion]

Start by making legend on what wire going in what position.

You can get a special terminal remover or cut the wires to get the old one out..
Then run the new wiring down though the small slot with wire wrapped up in tape flat to fit through the hole .

Then insert the corresponding color to the connector and fasten eveything up.

 

[wareagle]

Start by making legend on what wire going in what position.

You can get a special terminal remover or cut the wires to get the old one out..
Then run the new wiring down though the small slot with wire wrapped up in tape flat to fit through the hole .

Then insert the corresponding color to the connector and fasten eveything up.

Gonna need to remove the freaking strearing wheel because moron put it on non-center and the horn doesn't work...

 

[BKW]

You are gonna have to remove the steering wheel when you replace the TSS, so what RU complainin' about?

And...You don't need to make any legend...if you R&R the TSS the foillowing way:

CUT the TSS wires about 1" above where they feed into the connector, leaving enough so you can see what color each individual wire is.

TAPE the loose wires together, tie a looong piece of string to them, and remove the old switch from the column.

TAPE the new wires together, tie the string to them, then pull the string from the bottom of the column...the wires will feed down it EZ.

REMOVE each colored wire from the connector, then insert the new colored wires in their place.

This is the way Ford techs did it back then. If you do not tape the wires and tie the string to them, feeding those new wires down the column can be a real b!tch!

And this way, you do not have to make a legend, or remember which colored wire wire goes where.

The horn doesn't work...I wonder why? The usual cause: Underneath the horn ring (or button) hand pressed into a hole on the outside of the steering wheel, is the horn brush & its nylon insulator.

When the wheel is removed, the brush can fall out. If still there, it has a thin copper wire that is notorious for snapping.

C2OZ13A821A .. Horn Brush (from DC, does not include the insulator *).

Available from Dennis Carpenter in Concord NC / Illustrated (K) and listed on page 21 in DC's 1967/79 truck catalog / 800-476-9653.

* Originally when bought from Ford, C2OZ13A821A was a kit that included the insulator, but DC doesn't sell it that way.

If you also need the insulator...do not buy the brush from DC. I can find NOS kits at dealers/obsolete parts vendors.

 

[wareagle]

You are gonna have to remove the steering wheel when you replace the TSS, so what RU complainin' about?

And...You don't need to make any legend...if you R&R the TSS the foillowing way:

CUT the TSS wires about 1" above where they feed into the connector, leaving enough so you can see what color each individual wire is.

TAPE the loose wires together, tie a looong piece of string to them, and remove the old switch from the column.

TAPE the new wires together, tie the string to them, then pull the string from the bottom of the column...the wires will feed down it EZ.

REMOVE each colored wire from the connector, then insert the new colored wires in their place.

This is the way Ford techs did it back then. If you do not tape the wires and tie the string to them, feeding those new wires down the column can be a real b!tch!

And this way, you do not have to make a legend, or remember which colored wire wire goes where.

The horn doesn't work...I wonder why? The usual cause: Underneath the horn ring (or button) hand pressed into a hole on the outside of the steering wheel, is the horn brush & its nylon insulator.

When the wheel is removed, the brush can fall out. If still there, it has a thin copper wire that is notorious for snapping.

C2OZ13A821A .. Horn Brush (from DC, does not include the insulator *).

Available from Dennis Carpenter in Concord NC / Illustrated (K) and listed on page 21 in DC's 1967/79 truck catalog / 800-476-9653.

* Originally when bought from Ford, C2OZ13A821A was a kit that included the insulator, but DC doesn't sell it that way.

If you also need the insulator...do not buy the brush from DC. I can find NOS kits at dealers/obsolete parts vendors.

Bill, thanks for taking the time to provide me with the instructions I will need...