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EGR Delete ???

crzybil87

C.R.A.Z.Y.B.I.L.L
Ok this may or may not be a dumb question, someoe has probably asked this before... But here goes whats a way to plug the EGR in a 351 winnie without the check engine light coming on, im currently building a non emmission non computer motor outside the truck but the exhaust manifold cracked bad so im going to put the hedders i got for the other motor on and i have to get rid of the EGR , need any help guys
 
To my knowlege ther is no way to not throw a CEL with an EGR Delete, you can though get it to run perfectly with no EGR while still throwing the CEL.
 

Skandocious

Post Whores Make Me Sick
19,076
655
California
There are devices you can buy from RJM Injection Tech that will plug into the egr harness to make the truck operate properly in the absence of an egr sensor, but I believe it'll still illuminate the check engine light.
 
I made one of those things from resistors and got the right code (333?)
but having that light on was annoying. :/ Didn't want to pull the bulb
either tho. (I'm hard to please;) So I came up with the idea to keep the
head and vacuum intact. Others set their base ignition timing ahead
from 10 to like 13 degrees BTDC, so I fiNgured without the EGR and the
EEC thinking it was working, I needed to keep it at 10 or at least not go
all the way to 13.

Asked a few times for the real-world timing change the EGR allows the
ignition to advance, but never got a straight answer. :/ So gave up. :/

What sort of condition is your EGR pipe etc in?
Shame to ruin a good one for what I've got in mind to do to it. ;)
Bought a '90 parts truck that turned out to be missing the CEL bulb! LOL :)
Lots of crappy parts to experiment with there. ;)

Details on what I did, if you want 'em.

Alvin in AZ
ps- I have all the stuff needed to restore it all, I suggest for others
to hang on to their smog-stuff too, because... "laws change".
pps- I'm having fun learning how it all works in the meantime tho! :)
 

crzybil87

C.R.A.Z.Y.B.I.L.L
Yea thatd be cool if you could give me the detils on what you did Alvin, my EGR is in perfect condition. So itll run normal with the EGR unplugged?
 
This is simple as long as your truck has the standard EVR system and not the DPFE version. DPFE stands for Differential Pressure Feedback EGR and it has another sensor connected to the tube that detects airflow through it and which cannot be bypasses without setting a code.

With the EVR system all you have to do is put a piece of sheetmetal between the valve and intake and leave it otherwise connected normally, and cap the hole in the exhaust manifold/header. The valve will go through the motions and no codes will be set.. I ran my truck like this for a year and it ran fine.
 
Paul's post is what makes a thread so cool, I didn't know nuthin about no
DPFE system and its limitations. :) What I did amounts to the same thing
Paul did, just went about it in a different way, since I have junk parts to
use. ;)

Instead of a plate, I tapped the intake manifold's EGR hole to 3/8" tapered
pipe and installed a pipe plug. Since the rest of my method destroyed the
EGR head, we might as well leave it there? :)

The 3/8" pipe plug for the intake manifold...
http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20091214/4638K514L.GIF

And here's a plug for the exhaust manifold...
http://www.mcmaster.com/library/20051213/4835K280L.GIF

Alvin in AZ
 
http://www.svtoanashville.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5488&page=3
Follow the link above for how to do an EGR delete:wasntme:
No check engine light on mine but still get a code 33 during KEOR tests...
Hey! :) ...he did the same thing I did...
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o228/kdpate/reliefcuts.jpg
...I did it prettier tho since I used a flap wheel to dress it up. ;)
Put it back together with a 5/16" bolt with an ordinary 1/2" head.

Seems some EECs turn on the light for a 33/333 code and some don't.
The one I was messing with did is all.

Alvin in AZ
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
I successfully deleted my EGR system. I plugged the header, removed the whole system, and put a plate on the intake manifold where the valve used to attach. I even bought the RJM Injection device that is intended to help the truck run normally.

The truck does run normally, but the CEL is still on.

Ryan
 
I successfully deleted my EGR system. I plugged the header, removed the
whole system, and put a plate on the intake manifold where the valve used
to attach. I even bought the RJM Injection device that is intended to help
the truck run normally.
The truck does run normally, but the CEL is still on.
Ryan
What code are you getting? :)
The RJM method is supposed to throw a 33 or 333 code.

My method don't throw any codes, but some say my method is bad for the engine! :/

Butthead in AZ
ps- I've got three 351w's so don't care if it's bad for them or not, YMMV. ;)
 

O'Rattlecan

Redneck Prognosticator
26,687
797
Belton, MO
I don't know what code it is throwing, I've been to lazy to actually pull the code. I'll try to remember to do it when I go visit the truck soon...

Ryan
 

Truckin4life

Texas Chapter Leader
The RJM site says there is a code that MAY be thrown, i know you can toy with resitors and get it to stop throwing the code, but from time to time it might come up with a egr not closing or opening code, which ever it is.
 
The RJM site says there is a code that MAY be thrown, i know you can toy
with resitors and get it to stop throwing the code, but from time to time it
might come up with a egr not closing or opening code, which ever it is.
Is that how it works? :)
I didn't know you could get it to quit throwing the code. :)

I bought the resistors at radio shack to get the voltage value I needed
for my EEC and got a 333 code which is what Ryan sez you want.

Both... cleared the code many times and let it go for many cycles too.
Nothing seemed to get it to let-up or "learn", so gave up on it.

This thing is kinda cool, it flashes the light and you watch it count them
for you and keep track of everything as it goes... :)
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW

For me it beats guessing. ;)
YMMV?

Alvin in AZ
 
Alvin what resistors did you buy from radioshack what ones??
A pack of two 100 ohm...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062293
...the TAD and TAB solenoids on mine were ~78 ohms, EEC doesn't
know the difference. ;)

And a 5 pack of 3.3k ohm...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...=Type&filterValue=1/2-watt+resistors

And a pack of 330 ohm because they were 1/19 the value...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...=Type&filterValue=1/2-watt+resistors

I'd had collected these from all over but the values they throw are
for a different year than mine so modified them to work with my stuff
by changing the values to 3300+330=3630/330 <--Take that ratio
then apply it to the input voltage and you get a lower voltage.
...or something like that? ;) LOL

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/egr-SubFord.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/egr-evp.jpg
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/egr-BW.jpg

I got the right voltage and got the right codes but the CEL came on. :/

Alvin in AZ
 

A_G

wuh?
3,188
74
Tulsa, Ok
you could always wait for the bulb to burn out. took about 50k of driving for my dads to burn out.

mine has not gone off (02 sensor blah blah no cats blah blah) and its been on since sept 08
 

crzybil87

C.R.A.Z.Y.B.I.L.L
I did it!! I made my own little resistor pack and turnt the CEL off for good no more popping all is Good in ol' blue!! thank Yall
 

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