Donor swap 1991 stang into 64 custom cab/Hi

[GRH1964]

Hello everyone,

I had a lady give me a 64 custom cab free to a good home. It had the 292 and cruise o matic in it with the 3.73. It was up on jack stands missing the heads. So I had a buddy help me get it on a trailer. My dad gave me a 289 motor info below. I decided to go late model swap instead.

I want:

Everything to work and be safe
Fuel injection
Disk breaks front and back
One belt
Tank under the bed
Safe drivable truck for my son

I think the swap does most of this. I picked up a beat up 1991 gt auto trans that seems to run real well for $500 and I want salvage as much as I can from it I mean everything I can.


The truck
I have a 64 ford f100 that I am doing a late model swap on. I now have a 292 y-block missing the heads, cruise-o-matic auto trans from the 64.

I also have a 289 motor from a 64-65 ford fairlane that was honed but not bored in 1993 and the put mostly together until a broken new ring derailed the project causing it to just sit there until I asked my dad for the motor about 3 weeks ago.

With that I have the original 289 heads that a garage port an polish job was started on and not finished. One set of junk yard d70 302 heads very dirty, one set of machined but not assembled d70 302 heads.

I want to try to get maximum money for all of that stuff so I can put that money into updating the breaks/front end parts for the 1964 for my son.

I have everything I need to turn the 289 into a short block but the timing chain cover the original one looks like the coolant almost corroded through. I also don't have an intake for it.

Any input would be helpful and much appreciated.

 

[Beach66Bum]

what!!!! that's awesome
welcome to FTF
pic's would be much appreciated

 

[5.0Flareside]

Subscribed so can read and comment tonight

 

[GRH1964]

Added photos to the gallery! Was wondering about using the whole front suspension of the mustang?

 

[GRH1964]

Ok so I picked up a 03-07 Crown Vic police interceptor front end from a parts yard hub to hub $400. Between two buddies and me we got the 64 all the way down to the frame and soda blasted all the crud off. We are going to coat the frame with por15. A third buddy turned four pieces of stainless tube down to make a two inch frame to steering assembly spacer/bolts shaft all in one piece. The idea was to keep as much height as I could so we have the two inch spacer from the bottom of the frame, the shaft is 1 1/8inches and will push through the bottom of the frame and touch the bottom of the top of the frame. We will then wield the spacer to the bottom of the frame and the two inside the cram points of contact and then box the frame. There will then be a 3/4 inch hole through the top of the frame for the bolts. It's good to have bad $$$ friends!!!!

 

[GRH1964]

Breaking the old ford down. Keep in mind that the back of the body nuts are attached, but rust will eat at the contacts causing the nuts to break loose and spin. This turns body panel removal into a two person job in a lot of places. Make sure you have your tetanus shot cause I busted and cut myself all up on the rusty bolts. Also if you are grinding off a rivet and you can't punch it out. Grab some vice grips or a c-clamp and squeeze the two pieces together this will help alleviate binding as you punch the rivots out. We removed the front mount that looks round near where the crank pulley was, and also the crossmember because you don't need it once the crown Vic front end is installed. Apparently you can leave it but then if you ever have to pull the trans you have to pull the motor too. I said screw that. Tools you will need are impact or ratchet set, good metal punches, heavy hammer, grinder with cutoff wheel and flat grinder, and a motor puller.

We used a soda blaster and some carb cleaner/scraper to break down the big nasty stuff on the frame. Bolt separator bins and a safe place to secure all the parts you remove are a good idea too, some old blankets are nice for the fenders and hood. A metal drill will be needed to make your frame holes. Also an impact punch helps push the rivots out. If you don't have a buddy with a metal lathe you could use metal plates for spacers and just wield the tube into the c-frame so it won't buckle it when you tighten it down. I will post pics of the spacers as soon as I can.

Thanks to Will Hill for being the rebuild team captain with the brains and skill, Zack Levitt for all your help and reality checks, and Tom say it ain't Olson the mental metal lathe worker for all your help so far.

 

[GRH1964]

I was able to get a 78-80 bronco tilt wheel set up off eBay today. That is supposed to bolt right up. I will let y'all know. Then I may need a wiring harness, drive shaft, and then all the rear break parts and I'm going to shoot for the 1970 22 gallon tank under the bed with the license plate under spring tension.

I believe we are also going to replace any leaking motor gaskets and service the trans and rear end.

 

[LEB Paul]

I have an efi upper and lower intake from a 5.0 fox body (86 or 88 I think?) if you're interested. Think I have the upper anyway, definitely have the lower. Sounds like a pretty cool swap going on. Any pictures?

 

[slmann]

cool project.

here is a link to his gallery for pics. http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=6821&cat=500

 

[GRH1964]

Hey thanks guys. I think I'm ok with the intakes. If you look in my gallery I have about 20 pics posted there.

1. 292 y block with crank intake two carbs.
2. 3 speed cruise o matic.
3. 289 from 64-66 ford fairlane I have two different sets of heads no intake.
4. Pony wheels from the 1991 mustang GT.
5. Ground effects from the GT.
6. Dash from GT.

 

[DNFXDLI]

I linked the pics...hope you are ok with that.

Scott....can you edit these?...I can't flip them

 

[LEB Paul]

Interested to hear how the crown vic front end works out. Was just talking to my dad about trying that on an eventual 2wd built.

 

[GRH1964]

So we got the Crown Vic front end in place and are ready to poke holes for our metal lathed SS spacer/bolt sleeves and we started talking about the rear disk breaks/trac width issues. I have the ford 9" under there now with a 3.70 gear it's the large axle bearing variety. I picked up a Crown Vic drive shaft. Me and my boy like the mustang style rims so that has us drilling the axles to 5X4.5. I don't mind that I want a common spare because my son will daily drive it.

The debate is now explorer 8.8" rear end with the disc breaks already on it, or using the explorer break conversion kit. The ford parts guy recommended the 8.8". It would bother me to not use the 9". My whole life I have heard 9", 9", 9". So we will have to decide which way to go. I like the 9".

 

[GRH1964]

^ thanks for linking the pics DNFXDLI.

 

[DNFXDLI]

^ thanks for linking the pics DNFXDLI.

No problem at all

You can do the same thing by just copying the "bb" code under your picture in your gallery.

 

[Harper]

nice looking truck...
I would go 5.0 all the way, engine and trans. (I prefer 5 speed, but use what you have).
find a local "u pull it" you can score some great parts for a reasonable price if your willing to pull you own parts.
I am basically doing the same thing for my sons 65 f100.
however I am using the 302 ho with C4 auto. it will be carbed at first then switching to EFI
I am looking at using an explorer rear end for the disk, however I am more concerned with other items than rear disc.,so I may leave the 9 inch rear and use a donor truck 73 through 79 that I have for the front disc.
keep us posted, looking forward to more pictures.

 

[DNFXDLI]

The 8.8 is a pretty stout unit.

 

[tedrow42]

Great project I wish I had the know how to do this if it doesn't in bolt and bolt right back I can't figure it out