Cracked block, engine swap time....

[jjay1974]

Was looking for info to replace clutch vs. change over to automatic. Noticed water on the ground while the truck was running. Was hoping to find a leaking core plug, but found a four inch long horizontal crack in the block just below the core plugs. NOT what I wanted to find.

Anyway, time for engine swap. Found a 351 with automatic transmission locally that is installed in a 78 dentside. Called the guy for more info and found out that the engine and transmission (what he thinks is possibly a C6) is available and that I can come over and hear it run.

The main thing I am interested in is the engine. Other than the obvious, are there any certain things I should look for on the engine? Going to look at it tomorrow after work, sorry for the short notice.

I don't know if the truck is driveable or not (he bought it for brakes, power steering, etc.) so I'm not sure about the transmission. Guess I will look at the fluid and such, but not sure how to make a good deal on it.

 

[Evan's f250]

Well, check oil to see how nasty it is in engine. be sure to hear it run and see what kinda oil pressure its getting if possible. If truck that motor and tranny is in isnt drivable, really the only way to check to see if a tranny may be ok is to smell the fluid and to check the pan for excessive shavings.

and yes, it should've been a C6 behind a 351 m


if you dnt currently have a 351m/400 you will need the motor mounts
hope that helps a little

 

[Evan's f250]

Or are we talking bout a 351 windsor? i saw ur truck did have a 300 in your other post. you may need to grab the radiator too since yours was a 6 cly

 

[jjay1974]

Or are we talking bout a 351 windsor? i saw ur truck did have a 300 in your other post. you may need to grab the radiator too since yours was a 6 cly

Thanks Evan. I'm not sure if it is a Windsor or not. Will know more tomorrow. I'm going to try and salvage all parts that he doesn't need for his build. He bought this truck for the brakes and power steering to put on his 66 Ford. Hopefully I can get the remainder of the truck along with the engine and transmission. I'm sure I'll be able to find other parts on it that I will eventually need.

 

[Evan's f250]

Thanks Evan. I'm not sure if it is a Windsor or not. Will know more tomorrow. I'm going to try and salvage all parts that he doesn't need for his build. He bought this truck for the brakes and power steering to put on his 66 Ford. Hopefully I can get the remainder of the truck along with the engine and transmission. I'm sure I'll be able to find other parts on it that I will eventually need.

No problem. I would say if its a 4x4 truck, then its most likely got the 351 m(modified). If its a 2wd like yours, someone may have put a 351windsor in place of a 302 or something. anyways if its a 351m, you're gonna have to use the auto tranny. The 351m tranny has a big block bolt pattern, ur 4 spd would have small block bolt pattern,since you had a 300.

 

[LEB Ben]

Check fluids, listen for sounds (ticks on the top end, knocks/slaps on the bottom end). Pull the valve covers if possible, and check for sludge. Check for any witness marks of leaks. Bring a timing light if possible. I'd bring a compression tester as well.

That said, I'd grab from the radiator to the tailshaft of the trans and from the carb to motor mounts/towers.

8 valve cover bolts=351M/400
7= 429/460
6= 302/351W


For a price reference, the last two 400's I got were free (unknown condition. Just an FYI, you can make a killing parting out things like the oil pan, valve covers, timing covers and original intakes/carbs), and the 400 in my Bronco I paid somewhere in the neighborhood of $200 for a known runner with 83k on it. Somewhere between free and $150 seems be the going rate.

For a C6...I've picked them up between free and $75 in unknown condition, and usually less that $150 for what should be a runner.

Only other big ticket item will be the radiator, and those seem to usually run me $50-100.


When it's all said and done, I wouldn't pay more than $300 for the whole kit-n-kaboodle, unless you need it that bad.

 

[jjay1974]

Thanks for all of the information. Went to look at the truck today. It is a
351M/400. Original engine to the truck with 86,000 miles. Didn't hear any knocking, but it didn't run very smoothly at all. Possible carb/vaccuum/distributor problems? Anyway, guy wants $800 for engine and transmission.

Going by what is posted above, I'm guessing that is way too much. Gonna keep looking, but in the meantime, I'm going to try JB Weld for a temporary patch.

 

[jjay1974]

One other question.......A lot of people reference the 4-speed transmission being mated to the 300. My truck is a 3-speed manual. Is that combo something that would have came from the factory? Or did someone swap that tranny in at some point?
*EDIT* Also, it was originally a column shifter that has been converted to the floor.

 

[Evan's f250]

One other question.......A lot of people reference the 4-speed transmission being mated to the 300. My truck is a 3-speed manual. Is that combo something that would have came from the factory? Or did someone swap that tranny in at some point?
*EDIT* Also, it was originally a column shifter that has been converted to the floor.

Ya, thats way too expensive for a motor that doesn't run right! If you're partial to the manual trans, why not try to find a cheap good running 302 or 351 windsor, both of those engines would bolt up to your tranny. Like i said before, you'd prob need a v8 radiator.

It could have very possibly came with a 3 on the tree originally. You could get them like that

 

[LEB Ben]

Can't speak on the trans question...but around these parts, you can find entire running trucks for $800. Shoot, I know a guy out at the beach that has a relatively hot 400 with less than 3000 miles on it he's wanting $350 for. It's filled with summit brand parts, but it's a good solid runner.

 

[jjay1974]

Ya, thats way too expensive for a motor that doesn't run right! If you're partial to the manual trans, why not try to find a cheap good running 302 or 351 windsor, both of those engines would bolt up to your tranny. Like i said before, you'd prob need a v8 radiator.

It could have very possibly came with a 3 on the tree originally. You could get them like that

Not really partial to the three speed manual, but already have it and there's nothing wrong with it. Don't mind shifting the gears, but wife hates it. I agree with the 302 or 351W, along with the possibility of finding another 300.

Gotta scratch the JB Weld/Belzona idea. Cleaned the area very thoroughly this afternoon and the crack extends way farther than 4". Nearly goes from the front to the back. So, the engine searching officially begins (was going to take it slow if a temporary patch would work).

 

[Evan's f250]

well I hope you find what youre looking for asap

 

[jjay1974]

Due to being short on cash, tried the belzona route. Cost me $15 for new freeze plugs and intake/exhaust gasket. Was hoping for the best, but slow leak is starting to appear through the belzona. Oh well, guess it was worth a shot.

 

[Evan's f250]

Due to being short on cash, tried the belzona route. Cost me $15 for new freeze plugs and intake/exhaust gasket. Was hoping for the best, but slow leak is starting to appear through the belzona. Oh well, guess it was worth a shot.

You should be able to find another inline 6 cheap or a v8 for a lil more.

 

[primetime]

Try some water glass or K&W block seal. They both work wonders although they are just temporary fixes. Water glass isn`t the actual name, IIRC, it`s a preservative of some kind that goes by a different name. If you have any old time pharmacies in your area, they should know what it is.

 

[LEB Ben]

If it were me...I'd go ahead and give 'stop leak' product a shot (I prefer Bar's line of products). I typically don't like them because they are a band-aid fix and the product doesn't just go to the leak, so it puts product places where I don't want it. But since you're on your last leg anyway, no harm IMO...I've had the stuff last as little 5 miles and had it last until I could officially fix the problem. I've used pepper with some success as well...typically when there's a radiator or fitting leak...but it's worth a shot.