check gauges?

[Bax]

I just had a high pressure oil pump replaced in the 6.0 Today I get a check gauges warning. The gauges are working except for the oil pressure gauge? It is at zero but the engine runs so I must have oil pressure. Is there an electrical connection I can check? If so where is it?

Thanks for any help
Bax

 

[blacksnapon]

I just had a high pressure oil pump replaced in the 6.0 Today I get a check gauges warning. The gauges are working except for the oil pressure gauge? It is at zero but the engine runs so I must have oil pressure. Is there an electrical connection I can check? If so where is it?

Thanks for any help
Bax

The sending unit is behind the oil filter.

 

[Bax]

Is it a one wire or a 2 wire plug?

 

[blacksnapon]

one wire switch.

 

[Bax]

Sure enough. I found the plug and it is all broken and just pushed in the sender. I went to ford to see if I could get just the plug. I figured it would be easier than bringing the truck back. parts guy found me the plug it's only 37 dollars!!! wow. I can change that out. Also I am noticing that I have to crank the engine longer than I used to. What's up with that? Oh and thanks for the help.

 

[blacksnapon]

This is by no means set in stone diagnostics, but how long does it take the dash oil pressure gauge to register when cranking?

 

[Bax]

It stays at zero. I had to order the plug so I will get it tomorrow and pay attention to the gauge. The long cranking has got me worried now. What is with that. It just got a new oil pump.

 

[Bax]

Well I guess the oil sender is bad because the electrical part can spin 360 degrees. The center of it is loose. Wo I will get one of those and install it.

Next I had an exhaust leak by the turbo so I figured I could tighten up the clamps a little and perhaps fix it. NOPE I busted a clamp. Figures. but what I did find out id someone spread copper silicone all over the exhaust pipe joint? Is this normal? do these connections have problems sealing?

 

[blacksnapon]

Well I guess the oil sender is bad because the electrical part can spin 360 degrees. The center of it is loose. Wo I will get one of those and install it.

Next I had an exhaust leak by the turbo so I figured I could tighten up the clamps a little and perhaps fix it. NOPE I busted a clamp. Figures. but what I did find out id someone spread copper silicone all over the exhaust pipe joint? Is this normal? do these connections have problems sealing?

Shouldn't need any sealer at all!

 

[Bax]

Man this is starting to suck. Thanks for the info.

 

[Bax]

OK all is fixed. I replaced the exhaust band clamp I broke, I installed a new oil sender and wire connector. Start the truck and no more check gauge warning. Thats good but the truck still sounds like it has an exhaust leak. So road test. Truck is a total dog, no boost, I dont think the turbo is spinning. Man I hate the 6.0

 

[blacksnapon]

OK all is fixed. I replaced the exhaust band clamp I broke, I installed a new oil sender and wire connector. Start the truck and no more check gauge warning. Thats good but the truck still sounds like it has an exhaust leak. So road test. Truck is a total dog, no boost, I dont think the turbo is spinning. Man I hate the 6.0

If there is an exhaust leak at one of the "bellows" on the y pipe, you wont be getting all of the flow necessary to spin the turbo.

 

[Bax]

The back og the turbo has a new clamp on it and it is pulled up real good. I feel good about that one. The one entering from the passenger side is the one that had all the copper silicone on it? I cleaned it all off before I put it together. perhaps I should pull that clamp off and re do it however I put my hands all around that clamp and could feel no leak. I did that when it cold and just started. The egr also has one of these clamps on it. it is much harder to get to and had to tell if its leaking. Any suggestions on this area?

 

[blacksnapon]

The back og the turbo has a new clamp on it and it is pulled up real good. I feel good about that one. The one entering from the passenger side is the one that had all the copper silicone on it? I cleaned it all off before I put it together. perhaps I should pull that clamp off and re do it however I put my hands all around that clamp and could feel no leak. I did that when it cold and just started. The egr also has one of these clamps on it. it is much harder to get to and had to tell if its leaking. Any suggestions on this area?

Look at the rear of the engine compartment. Does the "silvery" blanket have soot on it? In particular, behind the driver side head. That could tell you that the expansion joint in the y pipe is leaking. If the egr clamp was leaking, you'd probably hear a "hiss" when it is running.
'

 

[Bax]

I do hear a hiss. The egr has a steel gasket with no sealer, then the clamp. Would a leak here cause the turbo not to spin? Is sealer needed for the egr connection? I thought the hiss was the exhaust / air pushing thru the stalled turbo.

 

[blacksnapon]

I do hear a hiss. The egr has a steel gasket with no sealer, then the clamp. Would a leak here cause the turbo not to spin? Is sealer needed for the egr connection? I thought the hiss was the exhaust / air pushing thru the stalled turbo.

If you have a hiss, you've got a leak. No sealer is necessary on any of the exhaust connections.

 

[Bax]

found an exhaust leak on the egr / exhaust connection. it looks like part of the clamp has pulled thru the clamp? the clamp is breaking. and super hard to get too. We will see how this goes.

 

[Bax]

Pulled the turbo to get to the egr to replace the clamp. I put a new clamp on and pulled it up tight. It looks like a great fit. Put it all back together. Paid close attention to the other clamps and they look good. Start up and the exhaust noise is gone. Road test= DOG the truck runs good but there is no boost. Jump on it and the boost gauge moves to about 2/3 pounds. Slow speed I can hear the turbo noise out the exhaust. There is a wire to the actuator on the turbo. I pull it and it makes no difference. just a little bit different tone to the engine. I am at a loss. I really dont know what to do from here.

 

[blacksnapon]

Theres a tool that bolts to the top of the turbo. It uses the hole thats plugged up there to measure the vgt movement. I doubt seriously that you have this tool and the IDS needed to activate the vgt solenoid. Might be time for a trip to the dealer to diagnose the no power condition.

 

[Bax]

UH VGT ? IDS? Thanks for the help but you may need to dumb it down a little for me.