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and she is down once again

yeah i got a good break in procedure from a guy on the 460 forums only thing is i need to find a tach to put on it so i know when im at the right rpms he said 2000 to 2500 but my truck doesnt have a tach
 
I just realized this thread was about a motor...
leaving.gif

yeah im posting my repairs on my truck starting on the engine then working out the kinks in the body
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
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yeah im posting my repairs on my truck starting on the engine then working out the kinks in the body


The old perv thought you were talking about a girl.

And if you just need a tach for your break in, run to your local auto chain store of choice and pick up an off the shelf cheapy. I've seen them as cheap as $20 as long as you're not looking for the Autometer or Dolphin names.
 
anyone know what kind of pistons i should use im really thinking about adding some nos and want to build up the bottom end while i have it torn down
 

Truckin4life

Texas Chapter Leader
Goin with notrous, forged internals are suggested.
Your ring gaps will need to be different than factory if you plan on running the spray.

Forged crank rods and pistons, would be my suggestion, but will also be expensive.
Your goin that far. I suggest
Ultimate street fighter short block
LINKY
 
hello mr ups my parts are slowly coming in just recieved my weiland stealth intake manifold today my camshaft and new lifters should arrive tomorrow picked up my heads today from the machine shop there weighing down the trunk of my little car right now and i decided to leave the pistons for now and just ordered me a msd ignition box and coil along with a mallory unilight dizzy so hopefully she will be running by this weekend smilieFordlogo
 

LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
1,124
outside your house
Good luck with that...I think shipping is the worst part. They say 3 business days, it should be there in 3 business days, not 'oh we forgot to place the order' or your order got redirected. I may have missed it, but did you get a new valley pan? You'll probably need one or expect some leaks.
 
i havent got any gasket sets yet but in the installation instructions for the manifold is says not to use the valley pan since the recommended gaskets are of such superior quality
 
so im bummed i finally have the motor back together new cam lifters weiland stealth intake manifold 600 cfm eddy carb totally rebuilt by the master carb guy here and the msd ignition system with the blaster 2 coil new spark plugs new plug wires and i ran outta time so i have to wait till tomorrow to break it in and i have a couple of questions my truck is a 2wd and it has the front sump oil pan and that drain nut is like right at the crossmember what a pain is this normal 2nd question holding the engine at 2000 to 2500 rpm for thirty minutes sounds like a chore anyone have any tips so i dont have to sit there for thirty minutes with my foot on the pedal 3rd question how much hp do u think she will have the cam is a mild one with adv dur 262/272 with lift .479 .504 d3ve heads ported on the exhaust side with a valve job and a good set of headers please let me know
 
It's been a long time in the works but my truck is now ready to be cranked up. I've had it bored .30 over and installed a new stroker crank. Had my d3ve heads ported and polished added the straight up timing chain and recurved the dizzy. All tnx to help from the boys over at 460.com.I'll try to post some pics later. I just have one last thing to figure out. When I pulled the engine and transmission out together I lost quite a bit of transmission fluid . Now before i crank it up I wanna top it off but I dont know what fluid to use cause according to the dip stick it calls for a cj type fluid. Now everywhere I search they say to just use type f but from what I've read about the cj stuff it's like the newer fluids. Now I plan to drain the fluid to change the fliter and add a shift kit but fluid should I use to fill it back up with?
 
I'm happy with the motor. The new paint job not so much. I let my buddy who just finished auto paint classes do it. It doesn't look that bad but the top part between the hood and cab has started to flake and chip off and it's taking what was left of the old paint with it
 

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