A little trans advice?

[David1357]

Hey, guys...I'm going to replace the trans pan gasket, and maybe the oil pan gasket as well. The reason: the '94 F150 sat for 5 yrs or so...and 4 qts of the trans fluid had leaked out. After filling and road testing, it leaked around the gasket, after only a half-dozen stops and 16 miles. Again, upon checking, it was down two more qts. Saw the leaks, somewhat substantial, with some blow-by as well. I tightened the pan gasket bolts to fully seat (about an 1/8th turn or so). Still dripped a little. Now, the question...having never done this before, is there any special tips involved? It looks simple enough..remove the old gasket and filter, clean the surface well, align the new gasket properly, and bolt to correct torque. Is there something else I should be aware of? It is an AOD, by the way. Should I use a gasket, RTV sealant, or both? Should I use an additive, such as Lucas, upon refill? By cleaning the pan of the debris, am I creating future probs in a more-than-likely previously neglected trans? It's got 169,000 miles on it, and I'd like to get that many more! Thanks for any and all thoughts on this.

 

[O'Rattlecan]

I've done transmission fluid changes on a few vehicles, and I always used a jug of lucas transmission fluid in addition to normal ATF. I've never used silicon. It's a matter of whether you trust yourself enough, or if a gasket is going to be a more consistent seal for you. There are great gaskets out there with metal bushings around each pan bolt, making it to where you can't crush the gasket.

Ryan

 

[flareside_thunder]

Try and locate a rubber one piece oil pan gasket, that'll make it that much easier. Same with the trans pan. I've never used RTV with a cork trans gasket, and I've also never had it leak doing it this way.

 

[SuperCab]

rubber gasket > cork gasket.

just get everything clean and evenly tightened and you shouldn't have leaks.

I'm not a fan of additives personally. It's up to you.

Does anybody know what lucas ATF additive is? I don't.

I do know that people swear by the oil additive when it's basically just stp. Has no use in an engine unless you have low oil pressure.

 

[David1357]

All good answers...

Thanks to each of you, fellas...I'll be doing it this weekend. I think I'll look for the gasket with the metal inserts around the bolt holes-it seems more "oops" proof.

 

[flareside_thunder]

It is, and normally they come with gasket retainer/oil pan guides that make it eazy peezy lemon squeezy.

 

[David1357]

The job's done...

Even though it was a simple gasket/filter change, I feel good for having done it-first time. I used the rubber/metal gasket...as Flaire-side said, "eazy peezy lemon squeezy." The local trans shop wanted $80 to $160, dependin' on whatever(??); my costs, less fluid, was $25. Thanks again for your input, each of you.

 

[smokey]

A tip
To hold the gasket in place tie a peice of sewing thread around the pan and the gasket. Once you have the bolts syaryed snip the thread and remove it.

 

[Fellro]

Most of the rubber gaskets these days have a few of the holes undersized to help hold the gasket in place by using the bolts.

 

[David1357]

The metal-backed gasket was thicker and very firm. It was a simple matter to line -up the pan and gasket with the trans, then start each bolt a few threads to assure the gasket is properly aligned. By tightening each bolt a few threads at a time, in a cross-pattern, the gasket aligned perfectly. So far...no leaks. The only drawback is the price: not counting the filter... Cork at $4.00, rubber at $8.00, metal-backed at $15.00-but reusable unless damaged. Haynes says to torque at 10-14ftlbs-I went with 12.