'92 F150, 5.0, XLT wants to die when stopping at red light

[OldFordFart]

Hey all, I'm the new guy.

Just got this F150. 157k+ miles.

While city driving, truck runs fine. After a bit of driving, the engine spits n sputtlers. I have to throw it in neutral and rev engine to keep it running. When its time to go at green light, put it in drive and go. It runs fine until the next stop light. It's to the point where I do not want to take it out of the driveway. It's to heavy for me to push out of traffic on my own.

I've had guys tell me it's my fuel filter, injectors, fuel pump, fuel modulator, etc...the list goes on and on. Parts are expensive and very time consuming to replace. I'm asking here in hopes of acuratly narrowing the list down.

If you think you might have a "real" reccommendation for me, please let me know:
what is the technical name for the part in question
where EXACTELY the questioned part is located
How to test it(simple version)

I'll be waiting.

 

[73F100Shortbed]

The first thing I would do is check for vacuum leaks in the rubber hoses as well as around the intake. Vacuum leaks can cause idle issues. After that I would check the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve. For the iac you can remove it and see if it is dirty inside. For the tps you can check with a volt meter, but I don't remember the proper voltage for testing. For the vacuum leaks you can spray carb cleaner or brakekleen around intake or use unlit propane torch. If you get to an area and the idle changes you found the area where the leak is.

 

[LEB Ben]

IAC woulda been my suggestion as well. There are more knowledgeable gen 9 guys than me that should be able to come along and give you more detail.

 

[blacksnapon]

IAC or vacuum.

 

[flareside_thunder]

I agree, for chits n giggles go ahead and pull codes...you can do this yourself at the luxury of your own home http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Also, in case you do what to check the TPS voltage, This is was done on a single bore throttlebody...but the same testing procedure applies to dual bores.
http://www.f150online.com/forums/li...ur-tps-voltage-single-bore-throttle-body.html

 

[Ridgerunner]

I agree vacuum or iac... but if you need injectors they are easy to rebuild and you can get a kit off of ebay cheap.

 

[Justin]

Pull the codes.

Dirty IAC or bad TPS.

 

[odogf150]

i say fuel. check the filter and see if its even clean or not.

 

[OldFordFart]

Ok, I'll get going on the list.

Thanks to each one of you for helping out.

Bear

 

[73F100Shortbed]

i say fuel. check the filter and see if its even clean or not.

If it was fuel I think he would have issues under load as well. But it is always good to have a new fuel filter anyway.

 

[OldFordFart]

I took off the iac and ohmed out the coil. Got .018.

Is this in range?

Inside the valve is very dirty.

With $ being tight, I'd rather not replace it unless it is considered bad.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I took off the iac and ohmed out the coil. Got .018.

Is this in range?

Inside the valve is very dirty.

With $ being tight, I'd rather not replace it unless it is considered bad.

You can clean it with Fuel injection cleaner spray and a new gasket. But it's only a temporary fix. A new one should be less than $60.00

 

[OldFordFart]

You can clean it with Fuel injection cleaner spray and a new gasket. But it's only a temporary fix. A new one should be less than $60.00

Are you saying mine is bad?

 

[Ridgerunner]

Are you saying mine is bad?

Yes your IAC can be bad even if you have High Mileage. I had to replace 2 IAC on 2 different F150. Both were doing what yours is doing. and now my 88 is starting to do it all were over 100,000 miles on them.

 

[OldFordFart]

Yes your IAC can be bad even if you have High Mileage. I had to replace 2 IAC on 2 different F150. Both were doing what yours is doing. and now my 88 is starting to do it all were over 100,000 miles on them.

157900+ miles

You are saying mine is bad or just can be bad?

Autozone has a Duralast one for about $70.00. Do you know if this a an ok brand?

 

[Ridgerunner]

157900+ miles

You are saying mine is bad or just can be bad?

Autozone has a Duralast one for about $70.00. Do you know if this a an ok brand?

I buy a lot from Auto Zone and O'Reillys Auto or out there might be called

http://www.cskautoparts.com/

 

[FordF-SuperDuty]

157900+ miles

You are saying mine is bad or just can be bad?

Autozone has a Duralast one for about $70.00. Do you know if this a an ok brand?

It's all the same.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Shop around you will be surprised how reasonable you can get one for.

 

[73F100Shortbed]

Try cleaning it first.

 

[OldFordFart]

I sprayed carb cleaner in it. It still looks dirty.

Does the metal rod inside have to move up and down?
I am assuming when the coil is energized, it field is pulling up on the shaft opening something?

Is my coil measurement shown in previous post in the range?

Is there a way to test this and make sure the moving part(s) are actually moving?

I found a replacement valve but no gasket. I am thinking I can make my own.
What material is recommended?

Sorry for all of the questions but I just want to get this right.