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351m build

primetime

sawmill slave
I am going to be building a 351m for a friends 78 flareside 4x4. Nothing crazy, pretty much stock. Right now I`m thinking Performer intake and cam with a 600 Holley. I`m looking for some flat top pistons if anybody knows of any. Also, does anyone have any experience with the Weiand Action Plus manifold since it is a bit cheaper from Summit. He`s looking to spend about $2000, and wants it to be long-lasting. I know what these engines are capable of, but I just want some fresh ideas before I tell him to start ordering parts. Thanks.
 

havi

third member
I would suggest an adjustable timing set, set to straight up, and if yer going through all the trouble, I'd suggest a 400 crank as well.... which will affect what pistons you need after machining the block. www.tmeyerinc.com has what ya need for pistons.
 
1,320
82
first he needs it machined... before any pistons are ordered...
2000 may get a stock rebuild but not much aftermarket stuff if any at all..


Incorrect, a set of pistons should be at hand before machining is done. Each piston should be measured induvidually and then be fit to it's individual bore. This is the most accurate way to do things.

That is a very tight budget, heck... I would figure at least $500 for a baseline cleaning/flux, and machining job. What about cyl. heads? Figure at least $500 to pressure test/rebuild them.

If I were on that budget, I would look for a complete rebuild kit, (including pistons), a very mild camshaft/lifter kit, performer 400, and a 650 holley. Include a straight up timing set, and you will have a LOT more prep than any 351M-400 ever did.

I would have a hard time rebuilding any Ford V-8 for that price. Look around the classifieds for used parts, that is what will make or break this budget.
 
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Truckin4life

Texas Chapter Leader
Derek i think his point was you dont wanna order a set of factory pistons and then find out you have to much wear in the cyliner and you need to go 20 over to clean it up...

That atleast how i understood it, and that would actually be the correct first step.

I am curious where you got the idea that each cylinder should be bored to exactly fit the piston?
 
1,320
82
Derek i think his point was you dont wanna order a set of factory pistons and then find out you have to much wear in the cyliner and you need to go 20 over to clean it up...

That atleast how i understood it, and that would actually be the correct first step.

I am curious where you got the idea that each cylinder should be bored to exactly fit the piston?

Some machinists are more picky about it than others, and some argue that because tolerances for pistons from the after market are so close, individual fitting is not necessary. A good machinist will at least mic. each piston to look for variances, and not go off of the manufacturer specification.

I have spent a lot of time researching these things, but have really only starched the surface. Engine building is much more complex than most people like to believe. Talk to people like Lem Evans or Dave McLain. PM me for more information.
 

BKW

Ford Parts Guru
Before spending a cent on 351M cylinder heads, MAGNAFLUX them first, as they were very prone to cracking!
 
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LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
1,124
outside your house
Comp Cams Kit-$450 (push rods not included $50)
Cheap headers- $200
Carb-$300
Intake-$225
Machine work runs $30/cyl around here-$240
Stock rebuild on heads $200


^^^That's pretty much standard on all the rebuilds I do or have done. I guess I've gotten lucky in being that I usually opt not to 'test' the block or heads.


Other things I would add are a 400 crank (adds 50 cubes right off the bat)...and that's 2-300 from TMI and pistons from TMI are $300:

http://www.tmeyerinc.com/


Tim will be able to help dial you in and put you on what you wanna do, and tell you the most bang for your buck based on budget.


Keep in mind, you can, in fact, find some of those parts for much cheaper than the listed retail values I posted...allowing you to stretch your budget a little further.



Edit...as for the Weiand intake...word on the street is it pushes the upper rpms a little more than the eddy, and not quite the low end the eddy has. Now in a 5000lb brick, does that matter? That's up to you, personally, I'd rather have the little bit of extra power down low.
 
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LEB Ben

Arrogant A-hole At-Large
34,919
1,124
outside your house
Felpro has a gasket kit that will cover everything he needs with the exception of the Valley pan. The set is $60ish, the pan is $30ish. And while we're at it...let's include the cost of sealer ($6 a tube) and fluids ($30 for a 50/50 antifreeze mix, $25 min. for oil)....good catch, because those cost something too and eat into the budget...so expect about $175 in stuff that aren't even go fast goodies. And around here...$30-40 per cylinder is what it breaks down to, depending on the shop. You go in for a bore job, you can expect to pay $250-300. Really, all the time tallied, it should be a half day job and at $60-80/hr depending on the shop...puts you right in line with my numbers again.
 
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bucks77ford

We will Rise Again
I think it cost me in that $300 range to get my 460 block machined to .030. Good thing my brother had use for 2 other 460 blocks that had to be machined more to get smooth from wear. I went through 2 blocks before I could get .030. I sure could have used another block, but I already had the engine kit first and the pistons were made for .030. So, I'd get the machining done first before ordering parts. Plus, after it's all cleaned up, the block can be checked over to make sure things aren't cracked and usable.
 

gsxr1238

Be fast.....or be last.
A good machinist will bore each hole to a specific piston size.They have size variances as well as your other tolerance parts.Depending on your piston material,your clearances will be different.Check your block first,and see what you are looking at ballpark for first oversize.Really take a long look at building it to a 400.These engines really come to life with a little help.
 

primetime

sawmill slave
Appreciate the info guys. He has two m`s. The one that is in the truck was supposedly built for a sandrail, but somehow when the engine was in storage it got some water in it. He didn`t find out until he fired it and it started blowing water out the tailpipes. When things warm up I`m going to tear them down, get everything measured and determine where we stand. Oh, Northern Auto Parts, www.naparts.com, has good prices on engine kits that I`ve used before with good results.
 

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