351 intake manifold gasket re/re

[87-250]

Hi all,

Hope you all had a Merry Christmas. Now for my request.... I have to replace the intake manifold gasket on my '97 351. I suppose I need to remove the 2x air pump first and then follow along in my Chilton manual. They make no mention of the air pump removal. I believe there is also a vally pan gasket that will need to be replace as well. What I'm hoping for is any advice/tricks/time-saver/cautions regarding this job. Anyone out there able to advise? Thanks in advance.

Lawrence

 

[conanski]

No need to touch anything that isn't in your way, but everything on top of the motor has to be removed or pushed aside. You'll need a fuel line disconnect tool set to release the lines from the fuel rail, 2 different sized tools necessary here. You also need a Torx bit and 1/4 extension to get the middle bolt under the upper intake manifold.
Some will tell you not to use the cork valley gaskets, but I have had no leak problems by gluing them to the block with contact cement, this prevents them from being displaced when the lower intake is put in place. I use RTV to seal between the intake and gaskets and at the corners of course.

In the pic below you'll see what the fuel lines look like after they have been disconnected..

 

[TexasNomad]

Eww! that poor thing needs to be out down never seen so much gunk and rust.

 

[87-250]

Thanks Paul.
I forgot to mention that this engine has a carb rather that FI even though an indie swore it had FI until he looked at it. He wanted close to $500 to replace the gasket to solve a vacuum leak issue. Nothing to really be watchful of other than what you mentioned?

Lawrence

 

[TexasNomad]

If its a carb set up I would yank all that garbage off the engine all you need is a Alt A/c and P/s. Simple is good

 

[95F350XL]

If its carb it shouldnt take you that long, no wiring harness or whatever bull the Fi system has. I usually run a bead of RTV across the valley instead of the cork, but use what works for ya. As Paul said, no need to remove whats not in the way. And your chiltons aint going to help with a carb as thats not supposed to be on a 97 lol.

 

[Mr. Stroker]

Both times i had my intake off ive never takin the fuel rails completly off, even when pulling the motor, i zip tie it to the harness on the firewall. Taking the intake is cake work lol

 

[Mr. Stroker]

Holy Rust Paul!!!

 

[conanski]

Holy Rust Paul!!!

Yeah.. that's life in the great salty north, everything disintegrates sooner or later. That motor is on a stand in the garage now and a fresher looking 5.0 is in it's place. Incidentally, the front of that motor was the only part with gunk on it.. due to a small coolant leak I couldn't find. The rest of the block and heads were completely dry, I credit the 1-piece rubber/steel core oil pan and valve cover gaskets for that.

 

[87-250]

Guys,

Sorry.. I just discovered my typo. It is a '87 not '97. Anyway, I got everything off and now I just have to put the gasket in place and button it up. A couple of more questions though. First, can I use the regular type gasket glue on the two rubber gaskets at the front and back of the block which mate to the heads or use the RTV? I don't think I need any gasket sealer on the intake manifold gasket (with its valley pan) along where it meets the heads , correct? Just a bead of RTV where the heads meet the block at the front and rear "corners", correct?
I would like to get rid of all the extra emission crap if it's legal here but I wouldn't have a clue where to start.

Thanks for all the help and a Happy New Year to all,

Lawrence

 

[95F350XL]

I use the RTV instead of the rubber valley gaskets. If you are going to use the rubber gaskets, you just have to put RTV on the 4 corners. The emissions stuff, just remove it all lol. You can use high tack/gasket cement to hold the intake gaskets in place so they dont move on ya. I have taken it out of my 88 bronk and my 95 F350, and still pass at the DMV, when the cats are on the trucks lol. Just make it so it doesnt look like anything was ever there.

 

[87-250]

Well I put everything back and even checked the dealer for torque specs. the torque specs were 25 pounds. Did it in 3 stages. Poured coolant back into the rad and coolant was leaking at the heads/intakes manifold. BUGGER!!! So any more advice? The intake gasket has a valley pan gasket integral to the heads/intake portion. I was told to install dry except a little RTV at the corners. HELP!

Thanks,

Lawrence

 

[95F350XL]

Not the right gaskets, they moved on ya, did it leak coolant before?

 

[Mr. Stroker]

I took Chris's advice to use a bead of RTV for my valley gaskets, did it the frist time, second time i had to take my intake off it formed really nicely to the bottom mating surface of the intake the the mating surface on the block. I did it again and will do it whenever i have another engine to build!

 

[87-250]

Double checked the gasket, didn't leak before, and the valley gasket is also the head/manifold gasket so I don't think they could move. Used locating pins so the manifold wouldn't disturb anything as I put it back. Perhaps the torque specs are wrong? Gasket can only be placed one way.

Lawrence

 

[1977 EXPLORER]

Make sure you got the right gaskets the water ports on the gaskets must match the head and intake ports.

Use RTV around all 4 water ports also on both sides of the gaskets.