1982 f150 Rods, lifters, timing chain, bearings? I need a FORD guru

[Fellro]

The truck should have had a DS II at least on it factory, the question is whether it still does. The knocking can echo up through the block. If it is a rod, you should be able to kind of feel it in the pan.

 

[we2r1two008]

When checking the bottom end can you guys give me some pointers? Steps to take, etc. I cant really afford to buy a manual right now so any input would be great.

 

[Fellro]

Once the pan is off, just see if there is any wiggle in the rod ends. If not, then you start having to pull caps.

 

[godblessmud]

Well? Any news?

 

[73F100Shortbed]

Yeah I'm curious too.

 

[86bigred]

I payed $1200 for tax, title and all so I feel like if I can get it up and going then it would be a great deal. The motor made a 6 hour trip with a 32' camper full of furniture and a couple thousand pounds of tools in my gang box. Its funny now but at the time it was a nightmare. We hooked up the camper and pulled it to the apartment to load our personal items in it and the bumper folded under with all the weight. Time to take the hitch off bend it all back in place and weld the bumper to frame, weld the hitch on top of the bumper and then some iron from there to the frame to tie it in. Time to load my tools. Unhook from the camper, drive to the back and load my gang box. The shocks squat low, rehook to the camper and no good. We have to frame riding on the tires. I have to get creative and cut up my bar from my weight set in a couple pieces... weld them from the plate by the u-bolt on the back axle to the frame therefore not leaving any shocks at all. It was quite a trip. lol We were blessed to make it.

Ok fellas. So from here I am going to do a compression check for giggles and report back to ya. Timing chain is around $16... I can handle that. Should I go ahead and knock it out for giggles? After that I drop the oil pan and check the lower end? I am willing just tell me what all I should do. Thanks much!

Oh yea.. where is the numbers to find out what year the engine is?

are you saying you mounted a 32' trailer to the bumper.i have been working as an rv tech for 6 months and part of my job is mounting hitchs.those bumpers are only ment for small utility trailers.you need at least a class 3 reciever hitch for a 32' travel trailer.if d.o.t. catches you they will nail your rear end to the wall.thats unless i misunderstood what you were saying.

 

[godblessmud]

I really dont think this guy really cares. Anyone dumb enough to weld a bumper back to the frame, then weld the hitch to the bumped and then the trailer to the hitch is the brightest bulb in the lamp

 

[BKW]

You have a motor from a car that required rear sump. The two plugs are both drain plugs. The one in the front is just to drain the lower area under the oil pump, the back is the main drain. The pan was designed to go over a crossmember at the middle of the motor, and since the oil pump is at the front, it has the pan formed around it. This pan style first showed up in about 79 in Mustangs, Crown Vics, Grand Marquis, and Fairmont/Zephers. It is possible you have one of the early variable venturi motors, which were also computer controlled, which require O2 sensors. It doesn't have the be injected to have an O2, just computer controlled. With the swap done like that, it is hard to tell what all was kept and what was changed. If the distributor cap didn't work, it is possible the PO swapped it all the way back to points. Pics will realistically be necessary to help determine what all changes have been made.
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First oil pan design like this: 1975 Mustang II with a 302. These cars used a different oil filter adapter w/a FL300 oil filter because there wasn't enough room in the engine compartment to use the longer FL1A.

VV carbs introduced in 1977, none were computer controlled until 1979, and then only in sold new in CA LTD's and Merc Grand Marquis with EEC, 351W. These specific cars have the first O2 sensor.

Some early 1980's 302/351W passenger cars came with carburetor throttle valve 'electronic' fuel injection. Raise the hood, the carb looks just like an ordinary 2V. Upon closer inspection, it isn't.

DuraSpark introduced in 1974, not all vehicles had it until 1976.

Swapped engine or not, IMO...the rod and main bearings are toast.

How much would it have cost to have an independent mechanic check out the knocking engine in an "as is-no warranty" vehicle before buying it? Prolly less than 100 bucks.

Depending on the year there may...may not be a VIN stamped on the engine block, but there will be a casting number and date code.

Casting numbers cannot be decoded to actual Ford part numbers, but...at least the casting date will decode to a certain year. The date will be within 6 months or less of when the engine was installed.

In the late 1980's, the NHTSA mandated that all automakers have VIN's stamped on mechanical and body parts. Some vehicles will have over 100 VIN's stamped...everywhere.