1979 f250 400 california vacuum diagram

[vls]

I went out and cleaned off the sticker enough to read it. Numbers on it indicate 62M-0-14. Not sure what they mean, since none are quite like the list you posted.

I just went out again and cleaned a little more. Sticker has codes on the right side that say C=62M R=0 S=14 Maybe this will help. I bought the truck in Alaska but I have no idea where it was origina;lly sold. Very likely not set upr high altitude, but the last time it passed smog, it passed so clean the machine though it was the wrong truck. So it should still be able to pass that way again.

 

[vls]

[
DUH! I searched the forum for the diagram number and found one that looks pretty darn close to what I have. Thanks for your help. I'll be putting it all back together this weekend, so the diagram will help a LOT!

Thanks again Mil1ion.

Have a Merry Christmas and a Great New Year.

 

[Mil1ion]

I went out and cleaned off the sticker enough to read it. Numbers on it indicate 62M-0-14. Not sure what they mean, since none are quite like the list you posted.

I just went out again and cleaned a little more. Sticker has codes on the right side that say C=62M R=0 S=14 Maybe this will help. I bought the truck in Alaska but I have no idea where it was origina;lly sold. Very likely not set upr high altitude, but the last time it passed smog, it passed so clean the machine though it was the wrong truck. So it should still be able to pass that way again.

Now you mention the stickers and Alaska

You're lucky it fit into the 50S category and not Calif only


62M-R0

S = ? service number ?

14= ?


I have this diagram.scanning it now

see where it says 80 ?

TELL ME WHAT YOUR STICKER HAS?

 

[vls]

There is no number where your 80 is. Just a 6 deg where your's says 10 deg.

 

[vls]

Here's a pic (I think)

 

[Mil1ion]

Engine IDentification sticker explained

 

[Mil1ion]

 

[vls]

Long post and a short RANT!

Now that's EXACTLY what I needed. Every line I have is shown. Looks like I have it right. I got it all put back together today and fired it up. Starting was pretty rough, but it smoothed out some after it was warm. I set the timing at 6 deg per spec, adjusted the idle speed so it would keep running, and then adjusted the idle mixture. Better but still not a real smooth idle and the screws have to be out 3 turns to even idle. Looks like I still have a problem. At least I know what it isn't. Fixed the bad casting with JB Weld, checked every vacuum line and all are fine. Vacuum is 16 at idle, and according to what I read, it's one inch per 1000 ft above 2000 ft, so at 6000 ft, it should be up to around 20-4=16. So....no vacuum leak anymore. EGR is not leaking and I can block the vacuum line to keep it closed, but no change. I ordered a remanufactured carb when my original rebuild made no difference. I'll try the new carb, just in case the old one has problems I didn't find. I cleaned the distributor cap and plugs, and all looked pretty good. I'm pretty much out of ideas if the carb doesn't fix it. Running the way it is, I doubt very much if it will pass the idle smog test. It seems to run exactly like it did before. I guess my last resort is to take it to the EVIL smog shop and tell them to go ahead and spend all of my money trying to fix it. GRRRR!

Sorry for the long post and the rant, but I'm REALLY getting tired of this.

Thanks again for the help, Mil1ion.

 

[Mil1ion]

Did you check the throttle shaft for leaking in air ?

This is a major reason for lousy running engines

The shaft bushings wear out from use and are NOT replaceable except by the rebuilder at a warehouse someone in automotive land.

If the throttle rod bushing leaks you HAVE to replace it with a rebuilt or NEW carb .
Also check the trueness of the mounting area of the carb to manifold
Use the unlit propane torch to verify it.

The other thing is the accelerator pump setting
1,2,3 or 4

 

[vls]

I borrowed an exhaust gas analyzer from work (I didn't know we had one 'till the mechanic offered to let me borrow it) so I'm going out when it warms up a bit and see how everything is right now. Maybe not as bad as I think it is, but we'll see. I did notice one thing. When it's idling roughly and I put my hand over the carb air horn, the idle smooths out a LOT. That seems to say the mixture is too lean, but I have the mixture screws out over 3 turns already. Still sounds like a vacuum leak. I'll try the propane torch test to see if I can narrow it down. I think I'll still replace the carb since I bought a replacement anyway.