I agree with dusty...and you also should lossen the filler tube at the neck and tank and carefully slide it out....once the tank drops down a bit.

This pic shows Alternator relocation from the Econolines (Air cond vans)...Bottom mount type to the Top Mount for this swap...Again i used L&L (SORRY.Duncan..lol) Brackets made for this swap these brackets are in the Gold color you see in the pic.its a pretty staight forward and easy transfer...

This photo shows the rear talistock of the C-6 for a 4wd unit.

Doug quoted Thank you, Buzz. I was thinking about a possible difference in length of the tailshaft.yes Doug there is adifference the 2wd C-6 tailshaft must be interchanged with a 4wd unit shaft in short along with the tailstock...i went through this during my build..

^ oil pickup tube & screen^ rear sump pan full view^Dipstick tube

rear sump oil pan i used...

Doug quoted ..Is there a difference between 460 2WD and 460 4WD, as to whether or not it will fit?I used a rear sump oil pan and pump on a 4wd truck and it was a F250...A front sump pan will interfear with the front differential on a F-150 (unless its got a 6" lift)...Now keep in mind rear...

Sorry Duncan....I meant no harm for your cause! They were just what i used and came to mind is all...:)

Hopefully these will help you

Yes the 400 & 460 bolt right up to the C-6...and if memory serves me well i used the 460 flywheel...

I used the engine mounts manufacured by L&L their made specifically for the 460 swap and she'll drop right in the stock perches...and their guranteed for life

Value would depend on an individual Basis imo.....meaning how bad someone would want it.

Thanks Doug!:)

Frozen brake calipars, could also be a possibilty....

Thanks for ALL the support guys!!!...Its really appreciated!!! :)smilieFordlogo

Mom Dad me.....In the summer of 63........And now you know the rest of the story.......:)

Hi Gang....Sorry i havnt been around much,But as some of you know my mothers health is declining at a rapid rate.My Brother and i are doing everting possible to keep her comfortable...Please pray for Louise (MOM) RossettiTo my brother Larry I cant thank you enough!!! I love you bro!!!I love...

Tyler In all Honesty a 30+ yr old stud is probably going to break off....But you can try soaking with PB Blaster...let it sit for a while...then take a 1/2 drive 6 point socket and extension and give it a few sharp blows with a heavy hammer then hope for the best.....I do know of another...

:rolling laugh: ...forgot about that one Brad...I stand corrected! :)

^^^^ smilieIagree although i was just a little guy in 64...I do recall This Legend!!

"Like a Rock"........NOT....:D

no harm Tyler...bolts may tend to work loose.so keep an eye on the situation

Tyler in all seriousness...you may want to consider pump replacement and call it a day...The bolts location is very close to the water jacket of the pump and is going to require a Center punch,variable speed drill..some good quality carbon tip drill bits...extraction bits and a 3/8 course...

Pretty much the same here Mark...done this was along time ago..It will also Teach him how to use one

For a 30+ yr old rig..ide say it in good running shape Tyler...gaskets leak its par for the course..keep an eye on the oil...Ive explained the steam,dont sweat it..ticking form the exhaust leak is normal and is pretty labor intensive to repair as bolts tend to break off in those motors..live...

If those are your readings across the board and no oil consumption as you say..no knocks or noises...then the engine is still in decent shape...as far as the carb goes..im assuming its the 2 brl motorcraft....if it is,could be a stuck needle valve,float going south,gasket blown ect ect..try...

sounds like its rebuild time or replace the carb Tyler

Considering its age...Probably a wise choice Ben...heck they are just under 400 bucks new with Boost timing control which is what i had..

Ben quoted..That's awesome...that transitioned to FRPP, right???Exactly Ben...;)