Yeah, that's what it looks like to me, based on what the driver's side socket head pipe plug looks like - which WILL NOT budge out.

I need to dump the antifreeze tomorrow and would like to drain the block as well of the wrong stuff that's in there. I found what may be a drain on the left side(driver's side) tho wont be sure until I pull it. Can't locate one on the right side - anyone have an idea where it's located?

Final "analysis"I finished the brake job mid last week(Feb 7th) and am very happy with what I did. The brakes work well, and the parking brake is as ho hum as it ever was, but does hold and do what it was intended to do - it is NOT an emergency brake.This is a list and what I paid for each...

Made up a couple tools to install the bearing cup then the seal:

Oh my oh my !!! This has become a project and then some. Left side is complete, just waiting to have the system bled. I was also able to "save" the seal. The expansion spring stayed in place and there was no apparent damage. The right side - the seal was fine - that is until I had to pull the...

Now that make some sense.To anyone else that may read this in the future, i.e. Googled it, the Chilton fitzall manual doesn't.Now - if there had been a magic way to make the rust disappear besides using a cut off wheel, but my living in the rust belt of Upstate NY makes sure there is always...

Found my problem - rust!!! Had to cut the intermediate cable to rear cable connector - off it came.

I'm trying to remove as an assembly take to my warm inside shop then reassemble all of the new pieces using one as a guide to ensure all of the bit and pieces are in their right place. Both are loose as an assembly but the #$%@ cable just wont come off

Thanks for the good write up -This is where I run into my problem "Parking Brake Cable Tension Release". The Chilton says pull down on the intermediate cable, insert a steel pin through one of the holes in the pedal operated parking brake sector to keep it from rotating back. Unless I'm...

Been a l-o-o-ong time since I've been on here. Probably just ran out of time to 'puter putter, but I'm going to try to get back 'in touch' with an opening question.Rear brakes on my F350 - replacing the rotors, pads and calipers. Not too bad a job, just need a few tools and a BFH. That is...

To answer my own questions - this 'dedicated' Chilton's F350 manual is a POS, printed on stuff resembling toilet paper and having picture resolution that is so bad that most are useless as guides. Don't waste your money.'drama'As far as the howling hubs - they needed to be disassembled...

I have a V10. Gas mileage isn't spectacular - but it isn't much different then the 6.0/6.4 diesel. The V10 costs $7-8000 LESS to buy new and $3-5000 used. The V10 is seldom in any shop for anything - ever. It takes 7 quarts of oil and a $4.00 filter every 6000 miles - not 15 quarts and several...

I have the Motorsport/SVT heavy duty - and they, too have that spring washer that usually breaks

I "guessed" right then - so that's the way I had just installed it "assuming" .....:headbang:Sure would be nice if Ford and in their infinite wisdom would just give us a picture.Thanks

May be a dumb question - but I have a 302/5.0L that I'm putting together for a project vehicle. It's a roller/crate motor, manufactured in 1999 and have changed a bunch of 'stuff' including to an SVT heavy duty oil pump drive. Which end goes into the oil pump - the short or the long?? I've stood...

I have some problems with one of my hubs howling on gas back off in 4WD and need to disassemble it to repair (as well as install front brakes/rotors). Since I haven't had a modern F350 apart before, I at least want to get an idea of what I'll be looking at. My history with Chilton's manuals...

The OEM versions were fine on my two T-birds as well but my last 3 pick ups, '97, '01 and now my '06 have had issues with the OEM rotors as well as my wife's '03 Escape. Even my ancient and long gone '73 Torino wagon and my '86 Mustang GT were expensive in the rotor category. The brakes never...

Thanks SkandociousRock Auto is often my source of supply for many parts that "can wait" for installation in a few days. If I end up with Raybestos or Wagner, this will be my supplier. As far as Motorcraft, most are great parts, but historically not brake rotors.I'm surprised that others...

I have about 42K on my '06 (see the AVATAR) and will be putting on new brakes shortly - getting spongy and are about gone. The dealer put rear rotors on just about warranty end (35.5K) so probably wont need these. I had complained about front shake - but his 'diagnostics' said the rears were...

Go back to my thread opener - there was nothing said about the air just flowing over the top - only that there is a negative pressure area moving snow (dust, mud, rain, etc.) up against the back window, The deflector shown in an earlier post will eliminate, to a point, the tumbling air flow...

I'll have to take a look at the Lunde stuff tho not sure I really like that particular look - and for sure wont work with the 5th wheel camper I'm looking at buying as a replacement for my conventional pull-behind trailer.

We've had a bunch of snow here lately and I haven't always been as diligent about brushing it off 100% most of the time (the truck is high) so there is always a little left.I was driving down the interstate at normal speeds and the back window got bombarded with the left over snow from the...

Looks like Hankook might have one - their web site isn't the best. Also looks like Cooper has one as well that might work - and it's even American made. East Coast Tires lists them(tho I've never heard of that outfit, but.....)I can't believe Ford does it to me again. My long gone '79 Mustang...

Yep!!My wife's 03 Escape had a vibration that the dealer could never fix after many rebalances, rotations and alignments - until I replaced the tires with another brand - I used Yokohama's and they have been great on that car. Now my truck has the same kind of vibe problem that I believe only...

It looks like I may have a couple of more choices with the Toyo's and Nittos after looking at some more reviews. The Michelins have never been a great tire for me on any vehicle, from an '80's turboed Sube to an older 16" F350 - not bad, but not great either.I did take a look at that 19.5...

Tire Rack is always my first stop as they generally have what I want at the price I want to pay. They have Continentals, Goodyears, Michelin and Firestones - three of which I will not use and Michelins are, IMO, not worth the premium price plus are not rated as well by users as I'd like.I...

It's about time for new tires - I have the OEM "junk" 285/70-18 Continentals which have some strange, non balance related vibration at 55-65mph. Of course, I can replace in kind (not a chance!!), pay a lot for Michelins, consider Goodyears that get so heat hardened within a year they never wear...

I know that this is an older post - but my '06 F350 CC had it so bad on one road that I travel fairly regularly that it would shift lanes at 35-40 mph. The Bilstein shocks cured about 90% of the problem over the Rancho "branded" junk. When I removed the 38,000 mile OEM shocks, 2 collapsed with...

You obviously didn't read my entire post.

Yawnnnnn. Another biased Gas vs Diesel articleThere is always a factor or several that these so-called experts seem to forget when they start their biased comparisons - and that is the much increased costs of operation and maintenance for oil and the miscellaneous filter changes. My V10 will...