Join Our Ford Truck Forum Today

Document your Ford truck project here and inspire others! Login/Register to view the site with fewer ads.

Follow Along As I Build A 400

I'll have the heads tomorrow morning for sure I hope! I got the oil pump ready to go in when I noticed the pump shaft didn't have the locking retainer (or whatever you call it) on it. Luckily my machinist had a few kicking around. So after I went and got that I installed the pump. Started to clean up the pan and there it was ... a nice little hole... WFT am I ever going to get this motor together? This pan is freeeckin junk!!! As luck would have it the junk yard next door had a 400 setting under the bench, I pulled it off and went back at it. I think I might buy or barter with Brian and get that 400. I have another good set of 75 351C 2V heads so just maybe just maybe???

100_7994-900.jpg


100_7993-900.jpg


100_7990-900.jpg


100_7996-900.jpg



Should have it done tomorrow...


By the way it normally takes me about 5 to 6 hours to put one together, this one has been a nightmare. Something about having the customer buy the parts...!!



Though I would show the difference in a stock oil pump and a HV pump....


100_7989-900.jpg
 
Last edited:
may just be me, but I don't see a difference other than the color..


Look at where the gears would be inside the housing... it most be 25% bigger.
 
I really don't like using them on a new rebuild where the clearances are tight, all it would do is push most of the oil around the pressure regulator (because it's got nowhere else to go) and create heat. But this build I am using Speed Pro 3/4 groove racing main bearings and the clearances are on the loose side so a little more volume won't hurt.
 
I like to go a little loose on the mains when they are as large as the 351W 351M/400 3" mains.... I had no choice on this build the crank was turned .010 before I got it, when I checked the clearance it was on the loose side of the tolerances. The big 3" mains are know for trouble at high rpms that's why the higher rpm Cleveland's have smaller mains, lot of people will machine the 3" cranks to the Cleveland mains for this reason. When I built the Clevor I went loose on the mains and used a HV pump.
 
Got it together yesterday.......

First thing I did was cc the chambers I checked 3 chambers and they were to my surprise 78cc...

100_8006-900.jpg



few pics of the un-shrouded valves


100_8009-900.jpg


100_8010-900.jpg


100_8007-900.jpg


Next I bolted the heads on....

100_8011-900.jpg


100_8012-900.jpg


Then I installed the rockers... one thing that's bugging me is half oil deflectors that go under the bolts were broke so I didn't install them. Not sure if that's going to be a problem or not. Then I noticed the valve covers he bought don't have any baffles in them so I think I'm going to use the old tin ones.

100_8014-900.jpg



All done, I have to pull the carb apart and clean it, it's been sitting awhile. Trying to talk him into a Holley, like to see a 700cfm or better on it.

100_8016-900.jpg


100_8017-900.jpg



i got a video of priming the oil system and I'll have one of the cam brake in.. just need to post the videos on YouTube...
 
Last edited:
Priming the oil system




Here's another video of my 351Clevor.. In this video the system is dry I just added oil and started turning the drill (CCW). You can see how long it takes for the oil to reach the rockers.

 
I found this a while ago, I was going to do it but said **** it his getting enough for the money I'm charging him

http://www.tmeyerinc.com/400Fordpg1.htm

Last item we did for the oil pressure was to block the #1 main bearing feed hole. This is a procedure we normally do with our racing small blocks. The #1 main receive oil pressure from not only 1 hole, but 2. So by blocking 1 hole this will help conserve oil pressure for the other bearings. Now we would open the hole that would feed the cam bearing to the same size as #2-5 main bearing feed hole. This size should be 5/16" and go about 1" deep to just intersect the main feed line. Please if you have any questions about this feel free to call or Email me about this.
 
I use to have a shop but now I just do it on the side and for myself. That last reply was from the site I linked, I found that when I was looking for the pistons.
 
I got to it this morning making some baffles for the Holley valve covers that didn't have any. Found some old rocker panels in the corner of the shop and cut one up for the baffles.

100_8018-900.jpg


100_8020-900.jpg


100_8021-900.jpg


Threaded the holes and with a little locktyte had some usable valve covers


100_8024-900.jpg



Next I cleaned out the Edelbrock 600.. had a bunch of dirt in it and the bottom of the accelerator pump bore was full too. got it all cleaned up and back on.

100_8026-900.jpg


I wish he would spring for a Holley so I could tune it!!! I got a couple kicking around I might just let him use one for the mud run this Saturday.

I got the HEI ignition wired up and working, the motor setting in the truck with the help from some of the boys in the shop. It'll be running tomorrow.

100_8027-900.jpg


I wanted to use my engine stand so I could run it while braking in the cam but I couldn't find a junk big block C6 to cut up for the bellhousing. This is the stand I use for running engines before they go in the vehicle, makes it a lot easier to change a wiped out cam and lifter. When I built my Clevor shown on the stand running I had to tear it back apart and have it line bored... never put an engine together with out plastic-gauging the bearing, I was in a rush and learned a valuable lesson!

100_5582-900.jpg
 
Last edited:
I live in Pittsfield NH, and believe me it's the Pitts.
 
Finally got it running tonight but I left my camera at the shop.I got the cam broke in with a few mishaps, had to shut it down twice kept over heating. I think I'm going to open up the mechanical advance slot to 26* so I can bring down the initial timing 6* from where it is, I still have to play with it a some.

I found some more horsepower laying in the corner of his shop in the form of a crank pulley. It came from a SBC a good 30% smaller than that giant stock 400 pulley. I had to do some tweaking but I got it to work. I remember once I built a 302 that turned 6500rpms for a Mustang II, the first time it went to red line it sized the alternator tight. The crank pulley must have been 8" in diameter you can only imagine how fast the alternator and water pump were spinning at 6500. Now I always try and find a smaller crank pulley when I build an engine that spins higher then stock. It's free horsepower!!
 

Ford Truck Articles

Recent Forum Posts

Top