The beginning or at least close to the beginning. Step bumper gone, receiver hitch gone & big truck mirrors gone. Shaved handles, peep mirrors & pwr tinted windows.



Looks like it sits kinda high doesn't it? Needs a complete front suspension inspection. The best way to do that is take it all apart.







Well we have a serious problem now. It seems I got a bit carried away taking the front suspension apart. The front crossmember came out on pieces. How about we put a 2005 CVPI IFS in? Minor fab required and for the most part a bolt in. Not only that we get 12" rotors, dual piston calipers, PI handling pkg & power rack & pinion steering. Sounds like a good idea to me. I Beams to the dumpster!





So far so good. Doing this in the plant where I worked on the weekend. Gotta have it out by Monday morning. Here she is sitting outside. No brakes, steering or motor mounts but back on 4 tires.





Ok enough playing around if I ever want to drive this thing again I best get some motor mounts, brakes & steering.





A friend of mine had an all stock 2WD 1968 F100. Took a few pics side by side to see what this did to ride height.







Not too bad. Still looks a bit high to me. Oh well let's find something else to keep occupied while we think about that a bit more. How about fender scoops? I know sounds risky but hey no guts no glory. Lay out the shape in one of the old fenders to get the look the way I want.



Fab up some boxes and weld them into the fenders.





Hit the lightly with a grinder and a quick coat of spray bomb primer.





Well now that I am feeling guilty for cutting up a perfectly good pair of original steel fenders. Probably better leave them alone for awhile. I got it! Drop springs and a rip back to see the '68.





Starting to look a bit better. I am bored again. I done hacked up the fenders. Why not turn sights to the cab?



Drop the tail 3" and here is how she looks.



As usual I am bored again. Off with the bumper! Have a few ideas for it. I also have a set of hood badges I am thinking about. These are original ones that are pitted. I am just using them to see if this is what I want before spending $175 on new ones. The plan is to replace the original badges. If it works out the F O R D across the front will leave. If it doesn't look like what I want I am thinking about using just the FORD F 100 on the cowl area right above the seam with the fender. If that happens then the sides of the hood will get shaved and F O R D across the front stays.







I should have the bumper back on some time this week along with resolving the hood badge issue. Pics will follow.

Got a pic of the suspension with the bumper off.

The IRS install started today. First a couple pics of the ousted rear end!




The start of the install is to remove the bed from the truck. Once the bed is removed anything preventing removal of the old rear end or install of the IRS needs to come out. In this case the mufflers were far enough forward so they could stay but the tailpipes had to go. This truck is getting a 460/C6 soon so the exhaust will stay as you see it in the pics until the engine swap. As luck would have it there are really only two U Joints used by Ford unless into a heavier truck. The truck's driveshaft had a small size and the Thunderbird had a large. My local auto parts store was able to find a u joint that would allow putting the TBird end on the truck driveshaft. This is a temporary as when the engine and trans swap takes place a new driveshaft will be built. I am intentionally not posting the u joint number as your driveshafts may have different u joints that need merged. Any good parts store should be able to locate the u joint you need.

I purchased new brake hoses and adapters to convert the 3/6" line over to metric so it could be screwed into the TBird hoses. The adapters are Edelmann 271300. The shocks are not being mounted as in the TBird so shorter shocks are needed. There are plenty of options available. I bought mine at Advance Auto. They are front shocks from a 1970-1982 Chevrolet Blazer. The Advance Part number is 59041. The Monroe part number is 33033. Napa also has Monroe shocks with the part number 94005. If you would prefer something different you are looking for a shock with a compressed length of 10 1/8" & an extended length of 14 5/8". You want eye type mounting on both ends.

I purchased a mount kit from http://www.truckirs.com. At the time of this entry the kit cost was $395. plus shipping. Ok here we go. Once the rear end and all other required items are removed we measure in 22 5/16" (SWB) 26 5/16" (LWB) from the end of the frame rail on each side and mark the frame. A note on the LWB dimension. This is not a verified number as this install was done one a SWB truck. I do not currently have access to a LWB to check. My recommendation would be to mark the axle centerline on the frame. Align the IRS to this line and utilizing the rear mount mark the frame for the cut. We will be making a cut vertically from this point 1 3/4". Then with the frame level we mark the frame for a horizontal cut forward the length of the rear mounts. So far so good. Now comes the fun part, time to weld the rear mounts in place. After considerable checking for squareness the rear mounts are tacked into place. You will notive the holes for the rear mount are slotted so you have a fair amount of room to shift the carriage around after the mounts are welded in place. In this install the spring perches and upper shock mounts are still on the frame. Just in case we got scared and wanted to put the 9" back in. They will be coming out here shortly. The mount kit comes with 6 gussets, 3 for each side. It also comes with the upper shock mount ears. Here is what the rear mount should look like at this stage.



At this point and visible in the picture the 2x2 piece of .125 wall tubing is weled into place. The length of this piece is 33 11/16" long. It is positioned centered with the mounting bolts & level. Weld to the top of the rear mounts as well as the frame rail. Here are a few pics of the install so far.

Cutting out the upper shock mount on the passenger side.


The upper shock mount (original) on the passenger side prior to removal.


A shot of the left side from the back of the cab.


A view from above before the 2x2 crossmember was welded in. The line with vice grips on it is the original brake hose.


Passenger side view.


A view from the rear of the driver's side.


One advantage to using the Thunderbird IRS: everything is mounted to the carriage. You have 4 main mounting bolts, 2 brake lines, 2 shocks and the driveshaft. Once they are disconnected the entire unit is out of the truck. HD axle shafts are available for this rear end rated for up to 650hp. Larger diameter sway bars are available aftermarket. Aftermarket drop springs are also available. Being an 8.8 you can get gears in practically any ratio you desire including a locker. I will be cutting coils out of my springs to get the correct ride height. If I have a problem with the springs after cutting I will look into other options. That is it for now.

The front mounts are in along with the 2x2 crossmember & coil springs. At this time 1/2 coil has been removed. Not much more to report at this time.

Passenger side front mount in place.


Another view of the passenger side front mount.


A view from the rear of the left side front mount.


Another view of the left side front mount.


A closeup of the left front mount.


A closeup of the passenger side front mount.


View from above of the 2x2 in place.


View from above front.


Cutting off the left front spring perch.


Passenger side with both spring perches removed.


Putting the coil springs in. Left side view.


Here is a shot from behind.

The wheels are on this morning for a look. Still need to do the shocks, brakes, driveshaft & a few odds and ends. In these shots the hoist is completely on the ground. The truck is sitting on it's suspension.

Left side from the front.


Right side from the rear.


Right side from the front.


From behind.

I want to say something concerning the time it is taking to do the install. My truck is in a shop and my install is not a priority job. Under normal conditions it would have been finished way before now. I had to put my truck in a shop because of a heart attack I had requiring a defibulator implant. One of my new rules for life is I am no longer allowed to be around welding. I planned on doing this install until the heart attack happened. The work is being performed by Greg Wilson at Moonlight Automotive in Greenwood, IN. There are two people I trust welding on my frame and he is one of them. To keep costs down my truck gets worked on as time permits.

Ok enough of that off to more pics! First we have the driveshaft installed. It uses that blend u joint spoke of above. I was somewhat concerned about length differences but it looks as though the 9" and the 8.8 are the same or at least very close to the same length from the center of the axle to the front of the third member. I have seen pics of putting the 9" yoke on the front of the 8.8. I do not like this as the 8.8 has a plate on the front the driveshaft bolts to. Since I will be having a driveshaft built in the future I wanted the TBird rear left as a TBird. When finished it will take a u joint for a 1995 TBird. Nothing special or difficult to find. So this install can be done without altering your current driveshaft if that be your desire. Just have a real parts guy find you the correct u joint.



Now we have some pics of getting the brake lines ran. The original hose was replaced although it did not need to be. A T could have been put in line at the point of the old hose and solid lines ran to the new hoses for each wheel. I bought new hoses for each wheel and it was determined the best mounting point was on the front mount. The plan is finishing her up Monday if time permits. Oh just for the die hard Ford people out there while I was at Moonlight yesterday taking pics a guy walked in and asked me if I was the owner. Cutting the story short he absolutely loves the swap. Then he went on to tell me he had a lowered truck. I asked and he said an 86 Chevrolet. I asked how he lowered it and he said springs and shackle kit. "Rides like crap and bottoms out on the bump stops out back". I thought it kinda cool a Chevrolet person was doing a thumbs up to a Ford truck!



The new upper hose is mounted to an existing hole in the carriage that we tapped to accept a 5/16" bolt.


Now just some pics of the lines installed.



All that is left is bleeding the brakes out! I am hoping to get some pics of the shock mounts before the bed is on. They had not been welded on at the time of these pics and Greg was hoping to have the bed set on the frame tonight. If so no pics of the shock mounts. I will post pics from the http://www.truckirs.com website showing location of the upper shock mounts.

I did not get pics of the mounts prior to install but wanted to note something nice about them. The mounting holes are slotted. All effort should be put into installing the mounts squarely and evenly but if the rear mounts are a bit forward or rearward the mounting holes are slotted so the carriage can be moved accordingly to align on original centerline of the axle.

The front mounts are slotted side to side. This allows for moving the front of the carriage to the left or right. If you are close but dog tracking a bit this adjustment will solve that problem.

Very cool project, looking forward to seeing the final product!

Thanks. We are hoping to have the bed back on tomorrow and the test drive!

The truck is on the ground and for the most part finished. The left bearing is bad and caused the tire to rub. Had to leave it and have the bearing replaced. Couldn't drive it very far at all the way it is. I did get to take it for a short run and it rides excellent!

The passenger shock getting lined up for the upper mounts to be put in. From the front view.


Same side from the rear view.


From the rear.


I did not make it back to get picks of the shocks installed before the bed went on but do have a couple pics of the upper mounts. Passenger side.


Drivers side.


Bed on, from the rear, still on the hoist.




Under the truck, left side, from the front.


Under the truck, right side, from the front.


Outside. Not the best pics but I will take more tomorrow.

Got some pics today to give an idea of scale. I am 5'11" tall.

Lookin' good!

A couple night pics.


My wife and a friend of ours, Brandy.

Got some engine swap pics today. I ordered headers for a '74 F100 2WD 460 pickup. In this first pic the engine is sitting on the CV crossmember. The headers dump into the firewall. Engine needs to go down at least 3". Rear sump pan required or totally custom fabbed headers. I am opting for the rear sump pan.







Truck's new hat?


Spare parts?

Pics of the dash. Here it is as purchased.


This is the plan for this area. The 2 idiot lights changed over to green and utilized as turn signal indicators. The PRNDL changed out for a correct display for the C6. The 2 switch wells painted to match the dash in the current blue areas. The left side will house from left to right ignition switch, headlight switch, emergency flashers. The right side will house HVAC controls. That is all the switches that will be in the dash. The speedo head will be modified to house 4 gauges.


This shot is of the left "wing". They are staying. I will cut them off where the door opens and attach the pieces cut off onto the inside of the doors.


The right "wing"


The glovebox door will be welded in along with the ashtray. The holes for the radio, clock & HVAC controls will be closed up. The hole in the top for the speaker will be closed up. I will create speaker mounts in each end of the top of the dash. One of the things I really like about this particular dash other that appearance is the defroster vent. It is all along the windshield. The trim piece that goes at the base of the windshield hides it letting air escape at the base of the windshield. I am also planning a long thin slit added to the bottom of the dash that will be utilized for HVAC vent instead of traditional louvers.

Cool, thanks for the update.

That dash will look awesome! Please post pics of the dash as you can!!

A few more pics. Not a whole lot to show. Got the nose back on & a few things done.

man the stance on that thing is very impressive. I am hoping after I get to working on my truck I sits like that. Looks very good boss

very cool truck