Alrighty, wife has a 1997 Taurus LX with the 3.0L Duratec Engine with 92K on it. I've been talking to my mechanic buddy about what it needs to outlast my next 6.0L. He told me that I should replace the struts as they were due at 50K. So, I did that yesterday. I was VERY surprised at how different it drives again. KEWEL.

I asked if there was anything else after he handed me the $537 bill for that job. After thinking for a minute, he said I should really consider replacing the Timing Belt. I said great, how much we looking at?

$1000 for parts and labor and it'll take 2 days?!?!?! Ah, that sound about right? I trust my buddy very much as he's never screwed me, in my opinion, but OUCH!!

He says that I could probably get along without for a while longer, but if the belt goes, it'll probably take the top end of the engine with it at least and really cost some money to fix.

So, does this all sound about right and I should get this done pretty soon?

it might be me, but that sounds high. i know there's lots of stuff to be moved to get to the belt but.......a grand. sure 16 hrs@$60/h is $960...but i don't see that being a 16 hr job.
my '97 astro has 175k and the timing components are like new. i'd hope Ford made their stuff as durable. jmo...i'm by no means a gearhead. let the ****head comments fly here.

lenny1carl said:

but i don't see that being a 16 hr job.

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My understanding is that it's roughly a 14hr job as they have to pull the engine to get to the side covers. Apparently, the 6.0L is not the only tight fitting engine.

Uh, no, both 3.0 litre engines have chains. And no, the engine doesnt have to come out (its not easy, either way)

I think I'd call THAT a screwing...

But does the cab have to be pulled?

His pants would.

mrfixit said:

His pants would.

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blacksnapon said:

Uh, no, both 3.0 litre engines have chains. And no, the engine doesnt have to come out (its not easy, either way)

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So mine has a timing chain? Is that needing replacement at 100K like a belt would or should it last longer?

Is it a 14 hr job? I did call the local Ford garage and they told me 16hrs and labor alone would be in the $900 range with parts in the $2-250 range, so a bit more than my buddy quoted.

Is a 97 Taurus even worth $1,000 these days?

Sounds like a tough job, I personally trust the feel of a car and how it's running before deciding to throw expensive parts/jobs at it. I always worry about spending a ton of money on a car that isn't worth much, only to see it totaled in an accident

Andyman8282 said:

Is a 97 Taurus even worth $1,000 these days?

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Yes actually. Book is around $2500-3000. PLUS, We've had this car since it had 20K on it so we know it's been maintained well and will last a long time (No, I haven't driven it much). So, I could buy her a used car with a few less miles on it and not know how it's been cared for, or I could spend a bit more on this car knowing it's been well maintained and will continue to run well for a few more years. The wife mostly drives around town and only averages roughly 10K a year.

Andyman8282 said:

Sounds like a tough job, I personally trust the feel of a car and how it's running before deciding to throw expensive parts/jobs at it. I always worry about spending a ton of money on a car that isn't worth much, only to see it totaled in an accident

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See above again.

Yeah, I'd definitely spend the $ on it then, sounds like a great car

Todd - all the trucks of my era over on the other forum are running WELL over 100k miles or even over 200k miles on the original timing chain. The chain DOES stretch a bit over time but in my opinion it would be pretty stupid to replace it at 92k if you're not even having problems with the engine! I've got 104k and I'm not planning on replacing mine any time soon.

3.0Litre 2 valve

Removal

Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01.

Drain engine cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03.

Drain crankcase.

Remove crankshaft pulley (6312) and damper as described.

Remove engine front cover (6019) as described.

Rotate crankshaft (6303) until No. 1 piston (6108) is at top dead center (TDC) and the timing marks are aligned as illustrated.

Remove camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer.

Check timing chain deflection for excessive wear. Refer to Section 03-00.

Slide camshaft sprocket (6256), crankshaft sprocket (6306) and timing chain forward and remove as an assembly.

Clean engine front cover and oil pan sealing surfaces of all gasket material and silicone sealer.






Installation

Clean and inspect all parts before installation.

Slide camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and timing chain on as an assembly with timing marks aligned as illustrated.






Item Part Number Description
1 6279 Bolt
2 6256 Camshaft Sprocket
3 6306 Crankshaft Sprocket
4 6268 Timing Chain
5 6278 Washer
A — Tighten to 50-70 Nm (37-51 Lb-Ft)

CAUTION: The camshaft bolt has a drilled oil passage in it for timing chain lubrication. If damaged, do not replace with standard bolt or damage to engine may occur. Clean oil passage with solvent.

Install camshaft sprocket retaining bolt and washer. Tighten bolt to 50-70 Nm (37-51 lb-ft). Lubricate timing chain, crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket with engine oil meeting Ford specification WSS-M2C153-F.

Inspect crankshaft front seal (6700) for burrs or cuts. If required, replace crankshaft front seal using Front Cover Seal Replacer T70P-6B070-A.

Position engine front cover gasket onto cylinder block alignment dowels.

Install engine front cover onto cylinder blocks (6010) using caution to not damage crankshaft front seal.

Install engine front cover retaining cover bolts and tighten as described.

Install oil pan (6675) and new oil pan gasket (6710) as described.

Install water pump (8501) if removed as described.

Install crankshaft damper and crankshaft pulley as described.

Install crankshaft pulley and damper as described.

Fill crankcase with the correct viscosity and amount of engine oil.

Fill and bleed engine cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03.

Connect battery ground cable.

Start engine and check for coolant, oil and exhaust leaks.

theres a tsb on camshaft gears for a 2.5 duratech v6. I couldnt figure out how to post it, so I e-mailed it to Brad. Sure its not a 2.5?

blacksnapon said:

theres a tsb on camshaft gears for a 2.5 duratech v6. I couldnt figure out how to post it, so I e-mailed it to Brad. Sure its not a 2.5?

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Nope. It's a 3.0L Duratech which is the Dual-Overhead Cam and, I think, 4 valve motor. I'm sure I read on it where it said 24 Valve. I'll have to look again now when I get home.

6L PWR said:

Nope. It's a 3.0L Duratech which is the Dual-Overhead Cam and, I think, 4 valve motor. I'm sure I read on it where it said 24 Valve. I'll have to look again now when I get home.

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its pretty much the same motor. The tsb shows the chain routing and replacement procedure.

blacksnapon said:

its pretty much the same motor. The tsb shows the chain routing and replacement procedure.

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You have MY e-mail, don't you?

so is $1000 high, or in the ball-park????

6L PWR said:

You have MY e-mail, don't you?

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yep, incoming! Its in Donna's name!