I am new to this forum, so be gentle. I have a 79 f250 400 california smog truck that will not pass smog. I am in need of a vacuum hose diagram to help sort out the problem. I got a "schematic" diagram from autozone, but it doesn't really show where each hose should be connected. A scan of an illustration would be a HUGE help. Thanks in advance. Gotta have my truck. Plow truck and snow is on the way, and up here near Tahoe, we got Lots!

Try this one and always remember who provided it to you

Perfect....

Exactly what I need (sort of). The diagram shows several different ports on the carb, but doesn't have a legend explaining all of the cryptic letters and device designations. Just curious if there is an actual hose routing diagram that helps identify which gizmo or port is which. If not, I think I can trace out each curcuit to get it hooked up correctly.

Thanks

I can provide that for a 78 but not a 79.

1979 changed big time and there are no illustrations like you want, they stopped in 78,

I may find something from 1980 for you

meanwhile have a look at this



Remember they installed different carbs and routing was slightly different

This is from a California 351M so just use it for reference and adapt to the 400

Images can be enlarged by clicking image until it is huge

Mucho helpful

That is what I was looking for. Hopefully I can cross reference the TCSV, etc codes to a device.

Thanks for taking the time to help.

My smog failure was very high CO at idle. Told it was probably a carb setting. But if I set it to the 1.2 to 2 turns out, it won't idle at all and is VERY hard to start. 4 or 5 turns it runs fine, but won't pass. I suspect a vacuum leak, but have yet to find one by spraying carb cleaner around and blocking vacuum lines. Vacuum gage reads steady 16 set up that way, but leaning it out, vacuum drops and the idle becomes very rough until it dies. I live at 6000 ft, so 16 could be normal, but the idle problem and CO were never a problem before. I have a new manifold gasket kit on order in case I get desperate and start from scratch.

Lean it out for the test ..then after change it back

also adjust your timing

How many miles on this engine because one the timing gears are stripped and chain has jumped a cog or stretched the CO levels will be all over the place.

also change the oil,install New plugs and a new air filter for the test

Instead of carb cleaner use an unlit propane torch


You never told me you were at H/A..

Now I have to go find the H/A settings

The calibration code diagram you can get more info off of is .....8-62T-R10

Found the problem....never seen this before!

[/IMG]

Both 5 and 8 looked like this. Almost looks like a casting flaw, but it ran fine until recently. Guess I'll be buying a new Edelbrock.

Post the casting numbers of that intake

Casting #

DTTE-9425-SA

There's another # 8F16 as well, if that means anything.

Quality control? Yeah...right!

Here's another pic.[/IMG]

D7TE- SA
cast on June 14,1978

This 1979 manifold sure had a lot of changes done to it since 1977.
Those ports look awful

Can you post the carburetor numbers please ?

Then I can scan the actual diagram and parts list for your application

In a way, that poor casting is a good thing, because that intake is a poor performer anyway, even if the ports were cast correctly. Upgrading to an aftermarket intake is a good idea.

Mil1ion said:

Can you post the carburetor numbers please ?

Then I can scan the actual diagram and parts list for your application

Click to expand...

Carb is Motorcraft 2150, #D9TE-AMB Emissions are Fed and California.

Fordzilla80 said:

In a way, that poor casting is a good thing, because that intake is a poor performer anyway, even if the ports were cast correctly. Upgrading to an aftermarket intake is a good idea.

Click to expand...

Not an option. No 2V manifolds are made besides the original, at least not that I can find. Must be CARB compliant or it'll never pass smog. Yes, they do look and they know the difference.

This is a plow truck with occasional other use, but not a daily driver or a show truck. I am going to do a resto, but not every single nut and bolt. More like a super refurbish and a new paint job. The only rust is over the rear wheel wells, and I'll probably replace the entire side skins instead of patching them.

Great, I have 4 possible hose routings for that engine. The one in Post#2 is probably wrong because of the date.
I have 4 others from earlier dates


How many ports on the VCV T-stat ?

The one feeding the vacuum advance has 4 ports. There's another one that has 2 ports. I'm thinking it's likely my hose routing was probably right. Just the manifold giving me the problem. But I did pull all of the hose connections and blocked them to see if I could smooth the idle. I just need to make sure I get them all back on correctly when I put it all back together. Thanks again for your help.

Okay, down to 3 possibles ...but it looks like they route the same with all the same parts.

9-62J-R0A
9-62J-R0N
9-62M-R0A
9-62M-R0N
9-62M-R10A
9-62M-R10N

ALL of these that are listed on 3 different pages seem to be the same routing,

Is there anywhere on the engine that the code might be? There's a sticker on the front of the valve cover, but it's pretty greasy and I'm not sure if I can clean it off without destroying the printing. Let me know if I can be of any more help. Are you going to scan a diagram, or do I go to some other site to see it?