Alright guys... basically since I'v had my Bronco, when I put it in gear (mainly reverse it seems like) I hear a *clunk*, and it does the same if i let up on the gas, and then hit the gas again real quick while driving down the road.

Well, tonight.. in addition to the clunk, I'v now got a constant *tink, tink, tink, tink*(best way I can describe it) that seems to increase in loudness and frequency the faster I go. Also seems to have more vibration in the whole truck than normal.

I didn't notice it driving around earlier, and the reason I believe it may be a u-joint, I'm hearing the new noise/vibration, after I backed out of a parking spot, came EXTREMELY close(within a 1 or 2mph) to a stop, dropped it in drive, and punched it (3/8th throttle approximately) was enough to chirp the tires(not on purpose I might add)... then I noticed the the noise/vibration the rest of the ride home.

Sounds like a u joint is a good possibility. Put it up on jack stands and put it in nuetral, then turn the shaft back and forth to see if there is any slack.

in my bronk ive had the front and rear drive shafts completely rebuilt, and mine still does that... i reckon its my tranny, may be the same case for you too

surewhynot said:

Sounds like a u joint is a good possibility. Put it up on jack stands and put it in nuetral, then turn the shaft back and forth to see if there is any slack.

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Will when I get the chance.. I'v been pretty busy lately.

I drove it today, and didn't notice the noise (wasn't listening for it either), so it could have just been in my head.. but I was sure it wasn't. (I was driving the truck a little hard that night to though, because I was trying to make it home before my curfew)

78freewheeler said:

in my bronk ive had the front and rear drive shafts completely rebuilt, and mine still does that... i reckon its my tranny, may be the same case for you too

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Could very well be.. and if thats the case, I'm not to worried about it.

Broncos have such a short driveline, any little play seams like alot. If the cluck is bad then ya probably a U joint. Id replace them all just because they probably havent been done in a long time. My 79 would clunk going into reverse with new u joints and so did my 95. Its just how it goes i guess.

The chirp and vibration sounds like a u joint to me, without a doubt. The clunk, could be slop in the rear end

95bronk said:

Broncos have such a short driveline, any little play seams like alot. If the cluck is bad then ya probably a U joint. Id replace them all just because they probably havent been done in a long time. My 79 would clunk going into reverse with new u joints and so did my 95. Its just how it goes i guess.

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I doubt the front has, but I believe the rear has atleast once, because dad was telling me once "yeah, one time the drive shaft fell out of it"

How hard are they to replace? That's something I have absolutely no experience with.. I'll probably end up running this one till it breaks, but who knows when it will be. I'm not exactly being easy on it. (not beating on it, but not giving it any slack just because I think it might break )

Sounds like the *clunk* is just a common thing...

Id go head and replace em just so theyre done cause they probly need it. If it has a slip joint in the shaft that can also cause a clunk (my 72 has this problem) if ya still hear it after ya replace the U joints then its either the slip joint in the driveshaft if it has one or its just some slack in the rear end/transfercase/tranny.

cipsmithers said:

The clunk, could be slop in the rear end

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Didn't even think about that...

1985 Ford F-150 said:

Id go head and replace em just so theyre done cause they probly need it. If it has a slip joint in the shaft that can also cause a clunk (my 72 has this problem) if ya still hear it after ya replace the U joints then its either the slip joint in the driveshaft if it has one or its just some slack in the rear end/transfercase/tranny.

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I bet they do.. and I'm not sure if it has a slip join or not, I haven't payed any attention to be honest.

as I asked earlier...how hard are they to replace?

Not hard just need a BFH, vise grips, drift punch or big bolt, a chunk of 2x10 so ya dont beat the driveshaft into the dirt, some needle nose pliers and then you can start swingin. Also works best if ya use the vise grips to hold the punch so ya dont break your hand if ya happen to miss. Probly need a 1/2 inch wrench to get the shaft off the truck. Heres how to do it.
1.Take shaft off truck.
2.Set one end of it on the chunk of wood with the other end on the ground.
3.Hit the U joint cap that is still in the shaft so it takes the pressure off the clip.
4.Get your needle nose pliers and squeeze the clip together till it comes out of the little groove.
5.After the clip is out roll the shaft over to the other side and hit that U joint cap with your punch so it takes the pressure off that clip.
6.After that clip is out get your punch again and hit the sap till the cap on the otherside can be taken off.
7.After the cap is off get your punch and hit the joint back the other way till the other cap can be taken off.
8.Take old U joint out.
9.Clean out the grooves where the clips went with a small flat tip screwdriver.
10.Get one of your new joints and take two of the end caps off carefully so ya dont loose any of the needle bearins.
11.Put the U joint in the shaft accordinly (some trucks have a Ujoint that is longer one way that the other).
12.Put one of the caps from the new U joint in one of the holes as far as you can get it in without hittin it and check to see if any of the needle bearins have fallen down.

13.Set the U joint carefully down into the cap so ya dont knock the needle bearins down.
14.Hit the empty hole with the hammer while the cap you just put in is on the ground till its close to flush.
15.Get the other cap check the bearins and put it where its supposed to go.
16.Hit one side or the other with your punch to drive it down far enough to where you can see the groove where the clip goes.
17.If the new joint came with new clips get one of the new ones and put it in the groove where its supposed to go.
18.Roll the shaft over and hit the opposite side down till you can see that groove.
19.Put the other clip in and then do the other joint.

1985 Ford F-150 said:

Not hard just need BFH, vise grips, drift punch or big bolt, a chunk of 2x10 so ya dont beat the driveshaft into the dirt, some needle nose pliers and then you can start swingin.

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I think I can handle that...

Don't need jacks... just crawl underneath grab the shaft and twist... you will have some play if its a ujoint. If not you should hear where the noise is commin from either rearend or transfer case.

Just made a long Edit.

Don't need jacks... just crawl underneath grab the shaft and twist... you will have some play if its a ujoint. If not you should hear where the noise is commin from either rearend or transfer case.

If it wasnt dark id take a pic of the u-joint i just crushed on the way home. Your bronco and my f150 have the same joints. only difference is i have a 460 with enough ponys to not only go through u joints quickly, i flat out crush the caps every time. With easy driving, they go out on me every other day. hard driving, a couple miles at best. So needless to say, i know my u joints. They are easy to change. Instead of beating on the u joints when removing/installing, i use a screw type clamp to press them in and out, as to be easier on the new u joint and so i dont slip and smack my driveline.

Truckin4life said:

Don't need jacks... just crawl underneath grab the shaft and twist... you will have some play if its a ujoint. If not you should hear where the noise is commin from either rearend or transfer case.

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I'll do that tommorrow.

1985 Ford F-150 said:

Just made a long Edit.

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I see it, and appreciate it..

cipsmithers said:

If it wasnt dark id take a pic of the u-joint i just crushed on the way home. Your bronco and my f150 have the same joints. only difference is i have a 460 with enough ponys to not only go through u joints quickly, i flat out crush the caps every time. With easy driving, they go out on me every other day. hard driving, a couple miles at best. So needless to say, i know my u joints. They are easy to change. Instead of beating on the u joints when removing/installing, i use a screw type clamp to press them in and out, as to be easier on the new u joint and so i dont slip and smack my driveline.

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I'm glad their simple.. and can you not get heavy duty ones or something? Or would you have to upgrade axles and everything?

btw, You should be a pro at changing them by now...wanna come change mine?

I went down and ordered the strongest u joint i could find, and that lasted an hour before it started squeeking, and now, after about 50 miles, the caps are blown out. this was #9 in 2 months. Ive got all the yokes and stuff to upgrade to 1 ton u joints, i just need to get the driveline. Then hopefully things stop breaking there. after that, pinions start snapping.

I know this because this motor came out of a different truck, and i got the history. in a year and a half, he went from stock 1/2 ton everything transfercase back to 1 ton u joints, 3/16 thick driveline, high strength ring and pinion, chromoly axles, and nodular case,. And that is the order things broke, ending witha grenaded 3rd member, which is when the nodular case came in. I have that axle, i just need to regear itto my gears

Bigger joints are available. New shaft would be in the works though

And if you buy the ticket, i would gladly come change all your u joints, free of charge.

cipsmithers said:

I went down and ordered the strongest u joint i could find, and that lasted an hour before it started squeeking, and now, after about 50 miles, the caps are blown out. this was #9 in 2 months. Ive got all the yokes and stuff to upgrade to 1 ton u joints, i just need to get the driveline. Then hopefully things stop breaking there. after that, pinions start snapping.

I know this because this motor came out of a different truck, and i got the history. in a year and a half, he went from stock 1/2 ton everything transfercase back to 1 ton u joints, 3/16 thick driveline, high strength ring and pinion, chromoly axles, and nodular case,. And that is the order things broke, ending witha grenaded 3rd member, which is when the nodular case came in. I have that axle, i just need to regear itto my gears

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Dang... what kinda power is that motor pushing!? No wonder your having clutch issues...

cipsmithers said:

And if you buy the ticket, i would gladly come change all your u joints, free of charge.

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haha, thats good to know but I think I can handle 'em.

Now, to just get around to it... my projects are starting to pile up.