drop the oil pan and clean/replace the screen, it's starving for oil
the crap that broke loose when you changed the intake is blocking the pickup
easy enough to change the oil pump then too if you want
I seem to remember that I had to hold the rod in to bleed the rear brakes
it's been several years since I replaced everything, except the porportioning valve, including lines, wheel cylinders, ebrake cables, hardware, etc.
If I remember correctly whatever position it was in was opposite from...
the cable should look similat to the one in the link, about 6" long with a spring around the cable
http://www.boyandjeep.com/tech-articles/ford-dana-60-rear-drums
sounds like you have the wrong ones
it is going into the booster, M/C, especially rebuilt, die rather quickly
replace with a new M/C
you may want to remove the booster and drain as much as you can from it, won't be long until you will see weeping at the bottom seam of the booster, then a little while longer and the booster will...
yes, there are several lengths, was able to get the proper ones from NAPA, an older store that actually looked them up in a '76 book they had
yeah, replace the seal and clean and inspect the hub, mine had a groove worn in it, cleaned and put a "ready sleeve" (thin tube that presses on the hub to...
cheapest and easiest to do is to stroke it to 390, all factory parts and it is easy to do with a 390 crank, rods, pistons
heads, be sure to put inserts on the exhaust seats, unleaded will kill the seats and valves in short order
you mentioned intake, carb, headers, cam, so I guess that is a...
do not use a puller on the outer diameter, you run the risk of destroying the damper or at best damaging it
use a puller that bolts to the hub and a screw in the center against the end of the crankshaft or as was mentioned, a slide hammer, but bolted to the hub
Vin: F25JCS42496
wb: 113
color: WH
F251F
body: 4
trans: G
axel: 23J
dso: 22
6900 lbthe truck has 8 lug wheels, ps,pb,ac, front disc (single or dual piston???)thanks for any info