More pictures on my forum album at More Pictures Link.This is a edited copy of my craigslist post of my truck for sale, can be seen at: Link to Craigslist. Thought I would post here since so many spam calls and spam text from CL.Location is in North Carolina in the foothills. If seriously...

(Engine: 360 5.9L )I am getting the "Edelbrock Performer RPM FE 390-428 Cobra Jet Aluminum Cylinder Head for Ford FE " and searching for clarification on options on rocker arm assembly to use. In the cylinder head user manual sheet under "you will need" it says adjustable rocker arms, yet I...

So that rod that goes through the floor board connecting the clutch pedal assembly to the clutch? It broke while driving. :headbang: Had to get towed, but when I got back, I found this and bolted it on top and bottom, logically seems better than the original welded pieces with cotter pins. So...

They ordered me the wrong one (gear ratio and shaft were much smaller, no good), going with jeggs, see what happens then. This is the most disturbing distributor nightmare ever, going on #9 distributor (as usual, 3 days, and the dizzy quits....) not to mention there is some pretty disturbing...

I have used one of those hex screwdrivers, the ones that you switch the bits on, stick it down the hole and slightly turn the pump shaft and try again.

It happened to me earlier this year. If you knock it loose while putting a new distributor in, you will hear it drop, sounds like a tool dropping in the engine. (that's what I did). No oil pressure and over heating was also my realization that I knocked it loose. I tried to force it in, instead...

The only problem with that is I would have to get the whole ignition module as well, as it was never on the truck when I got it. A previous owner must have removed it at some point and replaced the distributor with an earlier version, 1971 is what I was having to get, with the single wire, not...

Sorry, more questions, on a roll again with some final major work...Question 1: I am dropping transmission end of week to change the flywheel, clutch, and u-joints. I found this Eaton Transmission, 5 speed on CL (link below) from a newer ford. Will it and can it fit on my 1974 F350 with 360...

Regardless, anything better than puling over on side of road and adjusting points? :P (going to run over that damn thing once it's switched... :)

I am going with the Per Tronix Billet Distributor with vacuum advance - model #D130700 http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/D130700.pdfThat is my max around 250 to spend on a good distributor (ordered).My next thought is the best iginition coil to use with it. I was thinking...

So apparently I have been having distributor problems this whole time, and have gone through 4 of them (luckily under warranty). Been having to get ones for a 1971 360 5.9L when my engine is a 1974 360 5.9L. The 1974 has a harness for an ignition module which is non-existent in my vehicle, was...

I want this one, 1973 Ford Logging Truck though finding log hauling work might not be so great.CL: https://asheville.craigslist.org/cto/5124074732.htmlPic From The Post:

I have the 600cfm on my 360. Intake manifold was sooooo heavy, yes two people. I used the red high temp sealant and allot of it though I did have new cork gaskets, but used lots of the sealant on bottom and top, and let sit before putting manifold back on. Didn't replace intake, just did a top...

I am not for sure what used vehicles go for in Oklahoma, but in NC I am seeing old ford trucks without any modifications going around 1000 to 2500 on CL. I got mine from someone for 1500 (talked him down), he was trying to sell it for 2000, all original parts, no repairs, no modifications, and...

Thanks again for responses. Yep, seems like around 3000RPM is best at least. Only issue still having is between 3rd and 4th. RPM drops fast and slugs on first go in 4th especially on hills then picks up, 2nd and 3rd do fine. Did this test with 1 ton of crap in the back as well, so I am getting...

That sounds about right, and is matching what works well, when working.This sounds right as well, except that 3500 and 4000 sounds like the engine is going to explode, but perhaps I am just not use to it.Somehow, this Edlebrock carb is affecting all this, and been reading allot about those...

Thanks for comments. I have been shifting to 3rd at 30, 4th at 40, I usually just start off in 2nd unless on incline. I have been making some slight carb and distributor adjustments for a random misfire/back fire (still trying to figure that out, going to check for crossfiring on plug wires...

Oh, and forgot to mention: engine is 360 5.9L, transmission is the 4 speed (1st low granny gear), has 600 cfm edlebrock carb, edlebrock roller timing chain and sprockets, and just did top end (cleaning, gaskets, and seals).

So I put a Tachometer on the truck, and have the idle set to around 600 to 700 but wondering what the best or correct RPM range is for shifting through each gear and driving? The Edlebrock roller timing chain I put in can handle up to 6000 but I know the engine probably can not. Been seeing it...

Hmmm, don't sound good, but hope it is just what I noticed last night, valve covers have broken open slits above some of the bolt holes, and the covers are not even, bent and warped. I used liquid metal filler, and lots of gaskets sealant, and had to pull them off twice. But holding now. Going...

Back on it. This whole overhaul sat dormant all summer. Finally, got everything I needed and started her up today. Good. Real good. Except that I have to replace the water pump in the morning since the previous one sat on the porch for 3 months. (ran out of money, had to just stop for awhile)...

Seating valves:So I got the grinding compound, package with course and fine. Used course first, then fine, and did the fine twice. First time by hand, then, (someone is going to beat me with a hammer for this probably.. :hammer: ) I attached my drill to the valve stem and pulled a little to...

I am not for sure if they do that there, they just did the cleaning (probably extra, and I didn't ask). But I can check back with them. Valves and springs aren't in yet, just put them in their places. So all valve related work is next.I have wondered about seating them myself with the permatex...

Heads and intake back from machine shop. Did some sanding and painting (yep, sorry, heads and intake are now hot pink).Wondering if I should get new valves or use the old ones. Nothing too bad obvious, but a few are tighter than others to get in, not matter where I put them. Only one valve has...

It's 2wd, and yep, already experienced the oil pan issue last January when I put a new oil pump and oil pump drive shaft in. Not fun, and no good place to position the jack.Also, while thinking about it. Where are the engine block coolant drain plugs at on this 360 5.9L engine, I need to drain...

Thanks Fellro. No smoke at all, that is a relief, one less thing to tackle right now. And the hydraulic lifters, just wanted to get extra opinions, have heard both: must be tight, and must be springy. Just took heads and intake manifold to machine shop today to get cleaned, they said same thing...

Also considering anything else before I start putting the top end back together, primarily two things. Piston rings and rear engine seal. Rear engine seal has leak, but from what I have researched can be replaced with engine in vehicle, so either trans gets dropped or engine block comes out for...

Question on Hydraulic Lifters:Though I am not to this point yet, I am wondering about my options on the hydraulic lifters. They are not damaged or anything, but they were clogged with some spring to them with the push of a finger. I took them all apart and cleaned them, but the problem is...

Well, those words, rebuild, overhaul, could be a little of both. This is actually a continuation of my previous post, http://www.fordtruckfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38756 where some issues after timing chain replacement and previous other external engine complete replacement have...