Just so we're clear, I have to ask, did you remove the glass from the regulator lift arms/pins? The glass should simply slide to the bottom of the door and then tilt and come out through the inspection hole.

Sold for $38,600. Sounds like a bargain.

It depends on the bellhousing. I believe most C4's use the 157 tooth f-plate. All I can say is you'll have to check your parts carefully and see.

Since you have a 92 flexplate, as you should on a later version with the 50 oz balance 5.0 engine, I would use a 92 auto trans starter. The starter mounting surface on the transmission will be the same, and you want to be sure you have the correct snout on the starter to match with the tooth...

There may also be a tag on the firewall near the passenger side hood hinge that would have the number stamped on that, as well. But as Tim mentioned, the number stamped on the frame is the only 'official' number. Tags can be replaced or dummied.

Gents, this Saturday, May 2 is the annual swap meet at the Benton County fairgrounds in Kennewick, brought to you by the Ye Olde Car Club. If anyone is going to be in town for the festivities, look me up and I'll buy lunch. :)http://www.yocc.org/swapmeet.htm

I may be a couple days late to the party, but welcome to the forum! There's some good advice here, and just for good measure I'll toss out a couple more ideas for you.If you're really set on an IFS swap, the jag is not a bad option. It fits the best of the OEM options listed above. The Crown...

The only time I've seem boxing plates is when they come with the aftermarket front suspension kits, like the Mustang II type IFS. Even then, they're only about a half metre long. Depending on what your plans are, I'm sure it'll be best to make your own.

Welcome to the forum, Mate! (That's about as much Oz slang as I know:) ) You're going to have great fun with your truck. The 460 fits real tight in the engine compartment of a '51, so get out your biggest shoe horn.You may not be aware, but there are two different positions where the radiator...

Happy New Year to everyone here. I don't know what you all did to start the year off right, but I got married on Thursday. 2015 is going to be a great year!

Tim is right. I'm a bit of a ways from you, my location is posted in the upper right corner of my posts. But if you're up for a road trip, let me know. If you want to PM me your email address, I can send you photos.

Just thought I'd get a head start on the day and wish all of the FTF family and their loved ones a most wonderful Holiday season. Merry Christmas, and a happy and healthy 2015!

Where are you located? If you're anywhere near me I've got a sweet 51 cab that's just begging to go back to work.The cabs are all the same, essentially, for all the series, F1-8. There could be small differences with holes and options, etc., but any of them can be made to work.

Ford Ranger or Chev S-10 seats are about as close a fit as you'll find.

I may have a section of floor pan that you can use. Let me know exactly what, where and how big and I'll take a look at what I have left. I've been parting out a cab and still have a pretty good chunk of floor section left.

Cool pic! Definitely a 38-39.

Those are a thing of beauty! Sweet! Gives inspiration. :)

Welcome to the forum! If it is a 3 speed, are you sure it's non-syncro? Column shift or floor shift? AFAIK, both of the 3 speed transmissions of the era (light and heavy duty) were syncronized on gears 2 and 3. You do need to come to a full stop to slide into 1st without grinding.

To answer the rest of your question, there's no kit I'm aware of that transforms crashbox trannies to synchro. They are either built with them or not. A '40 chassis is a pretty tight fit in the middle, and I'd agree with Havi that the LD 3 speed floor shift (used up to mid '50 in the trucks)...

All that said, if you're going to just scrap it, let me know first, please. It would be a shame to just throw it away.

Welcome to the group, Kellen! Your last post sounds like a good plan. The late model rear will solve a multitude of issues with the older F2's and 3's. The rear drums on the 72 Dana 60 will be more than adequate for stopping power on your truck. They worked fine in the original application for...

Best of luck with your search. As I was reading through the thread, I was thinking everything that Havi posted. For towing, I like a heavier truck and the F2/3 would be my choice. Better suited suspension and longer wheelbase will make life much easier, imho. I may be late to the conversation...

It's been a while since anyone's said a word here, so I thought I'd start 2014 off right and wish everyone hear a very happy and healthy New Year. All the best to one and all...:wavey:

That crossmember is a work of art. Very well done. Thanks for sharing.

Very, very cool. :)

Welcome to the forum, Derrick. That does look like a fun project you've found. Real solid. It looks like it's spent many years in the weather without too much harm. But as for rust, just remember it's taken 60 years for it to progress to the point it is. There's nothing that will make it any...

Yes, the 254-6 was an option in the F-6(00) trucks from 1950 to 1953.

Do you need some Ford trim? If so, maybe we can work out a trade deal.

Anything is possible. The bigger question will be how to do it? What are your plans for the truck?

Welcome to the forum, Dave! Tell us a little more about your plans for the truck. An F1 is always a fun project. Oh, and pictures are good, too. lol :)