usually, the unison ring in the turbo has the "slot" worn out

there is nothing easy to work on on a 6.4.

its a Canadian cheater bar

make sure you put everything in neutral(trans and transfer case) before shifting. and push on the brake (the shift motor has to have the brake pedal applied impulse before it allows complete shifts).

check the center of your p/s pulley. the shaft of the pump should be flush with the pulley. if not, the belt will "walk" its way up the pulley groove.

is your condenser clean and free flowing?(no debris in front of it). is your fan clutch working?

just keep washing it off. its considered normal wear. now,if it started to peel or otherwise damage the chrome, it would be different.

he GEM is supposed to be programmed before installation. one way to tell if the programming hasn't been performed, The interior lights blink! BEEN THERE, DONE THAT. Had to do a lot of research before I figured that one out. Thought they were never going to quit flashing. If the programming Is...

just trip the inertia switch.

or a bad bulb

gem module

if someone came to me wanting repairs based solely on an oil analysis ,i'd send them away

as far as the cannot detect cylinder#, look at the crankshaft position sensor on the front pulley. it will Read off of the "star" wheel that is attached to it. perhaps it isn't plugged in or a broken wire or damaged lower pulley.

pcm is powertrain control module

stallingthe coolant temp reading -40 means that the coolant temp sensor is disconnected (or the pcm "thinks"it is)with that reading the pcm will make adjustments in timing, injector duty cycle in an attempt to "warm it up". Theres where your fuel is going. if you create a massive vacuum leak...

sounds like forward clutch, sorry!

just remember short fuel trim is the adjusting that the pcm is making immediately. long fuel trim is when the pcm can't make sufficient adjustments with short trims.the easiest demonstration of that is watch the long trims when you create a large vacuum leak.

timing

Do a cylinder bleed- down test.Its more precise than just a compression test.

pre-programmed it all depends on the 02 sensors.

jus watch for clearance issues. you might try putting them inside out.

get you a really good rivet tool . a standard gun wont do it.it'll be easier if you get a regulator with the motor on it

cycling glow plugs twice would say glow plug control module. get your starting problem fixed and your no power issue will go away.

They're breaking valve springs due to the extended high rpms during towing.

we were getting them after extended use of "brand x" filters the oil passages in the heads were plugged with small silicone chunks from the valving in the filters.

you always use motorcraft filters?

there isn't even a procedure for doing one in the workshop manual. I guess they figure its just common knowledge. as far as the removal of the "spindle" I just rely on penetrating oil and a bfh.beat it side to side, then when an opening shows, jam a screwdriver or chisel in there and "persuade"...